Chris s430

My good friend recently gave me his 2001 s430 so far did the p.f.e pump which was very simple. Also did blower motor and resistor. Airmatic has been trouble need to find either bushings or arms for the level sensors all around. But all and all runs great ! Valve covers soon though.

Fried Chicken

Welcome; prepare to get your PhD in Mercedes.

There is a lot to learn, and many tears to be shed.

Chris s430

I'm ready. And thank you

cowboyt

However, it's not so bad with W220's. Indeed, I'd say the W220 is probably the last DIY-friendly S-class. Fortunately, it's also the first in the "modern" S-class family, too, so you get the best of both worlds.

You *really* should get a STAR Diagnostics System. I've troubleshot several AIRmatic issues with it, and that really is the tool to use, since it's the dealer tool. It does *every-thang* that the dealer also can do, and that's important on these cars.

Fortunately, W220 AIRmatic maintenance is not difficult. I've replaced them on all four corners. When you do replace parts, always use either OEM or Genuine-MB. For your suspension, Lemfoerder, TRW, and Rein are the OEM's for Mercedes-Benz. I use Lemfoerder parts for the front and Rein on the back. For AIRmatic springs, you have three good options: Arnott, Bilstein, and Genuine-MB. For your AIRmatic valve block, go Genuine-MB. The AIRmatic pump must be a Wabco unit (Wabco is the OEM). Any of that cheap stuff on eBay is that "made in China" junk and it sucks, so avoid it like the Plague. With the single exception of Arnott, stay OEM. AND AVOID MEYLE AND URO AT ALL COSTS!!!

So, how to know something's OEM? FCP Euro is good about showing what's OEM and what isn't. For Genuine-MB, there are several dealers with online stores with nice discounts; OEMercedesBenzParts.com and MBOemParts.com are two examples.

Chris s430

Thank you for all the quick support. I hope to learn enough to give back to other members.

Kebowers47

The vast majority of 'routine' failures are inexpensive replacement parts and lots of labor cost at a Dealer. The numerous 'electronic modules' are not inexpensive but often are available on EBAY guaranteed good. Salty roads are death to many cars and MBZ is no exception if it is not properly cared for. Thorough underbody cleaning (removing all the plastic shields) is essential to remove salt effects. Every fall and spring a very thorough inspection of all the 'undercoating', drain holes, crevices, etc will save thousands of dollars. Use ruberized spray undercoating to repair any damaged spots. Use LPS#3 (a waxy spray) in every void, crevice, crack, to prevent cancer. Remove screws, plugs, etc to get it inside every cavity.