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I take fuse 20amp. Out in 5 minutes and put in again for the trunk. Then I open the trunk three times in a row, with no problem.
Then the fourth time it saids “click” and the chrome handle goes immediately in and the soft close do not go work. Then I have to manually push the trunk down in close position.
The only way to get the normal three times again is to take the fuse out and put in again.
The PSE (Pneumatic Service Equipment) computer (control module) monitors the time that each operations takes, and compares it to the time that is programmed. If the time is excessive, after a few tries, the computer shuts down that operation to protect the PSE pneumatic pump.
Your situation indicates that it is very likely that either the pneumatic actuator on the trunk latch mechanism, or one of its feed lines, is leaking, so the soft-close operation is taking longer than programmed, and has been shut down. The suggested fix is to carefully check the actuator for cracks and leaks, along with its feed lines. Some folks have had good luck repairing the actuator with clamps or tie-wraps plus a high-quality epoxy. Other folks have preferred to replace the actuator, or the entire assembly.
There are quite a few YouTube videos and many write-ups on doing the repairs. Google "w220 trunk actuator repair" to start...
The PSE (Pneumatic Service Equipment) computer (control module) monitors the time that each operations takes, and compares it to the time that is programmed. If the time is excessive, after a few tries, the computer shuts down that operation to protect the PSE pneumatic pump.
Your situation indicates that it is very likely that either the pneumatic actuator on the trunk latch mechanism, or one of its feed lines, is leaking, so the soft-close operation is taking longer than programmed, and has been shut down. The suggested fix is to carefully check the actuator for cracks and leaks, along with its feed lines. Some folks have had good luck repairing the actuator with clamps or tie-wraps plus a high-quality epoxy. Other folks have preferred to replace the actuator, or the entire assembly.
There are quite a few YouTube videos and many write-ups on doing the repairs. Google "w220 trunk actuator repair" to start...
Exact same problem, fixed with a new actuator. Not a hard job, perhaps 45 minutes, but it was pricey. About $350, I think. Be certain it's your actuator before laying out that much $$. In my case, I could hear the hiss from the actuator, and when I took out the trunk lid lining, I could see the cracked puck.
My trunk actuator is also leaking and I can hear a clear hissing noise from it - does anyone know if those cheap aliexpress repair kits actually work? Or is it better just to glue the crap out of every crack I see?
Thanks. I wish everybody would post the solutions and not only the problems...
I had the same issue with my truck actuator. The actuator has cracks all over were those little meal ***** sit along with the round bladder. Some super glue fix’s the issue.
I had an even more challenging issue, where the power line to the actuator is cut, which happened inside that braided loom on the right side of the trunk lid. The wires move up and down and eventually gets cut. Had to run a new line from the actuator down to the right side of the trunk and t-tap. Now works amazing. Took me a long time to figure it out.
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