Hello,

I have issue with S430 2001 which I never hear or saw before. I'm happy owner for more than 3 years and 1 day after 10-15min ride car don't want to start. Was cranking but nothing more.
I call mechanic explained what happening and he pointed to bad Crank sensor. He told me run cold water on top of sensor or wait till car will cool down. I was at shopping center so go back for coffee and back after 1h.
Car start with out any problems. I didn't ride much pass few months as I Have other cars. Finally I decided to buy new sensor and change it. I bought new BOSH sensor and mechanic did service including sensor.
He started car but we didn't wait till engine warm up. I payed for everything and start driving home. Car is driving good no issue with anything. I arrived home switch off car and want to start again to check if is OK.
It was exactly same problem car was cranking but didn't start. I try few times on warm engine and no luck. I wait till engine was cold and car started with out issue and drive fine.
I go back to mechanic and this time we had code from bad crankshaft position Sensor A circuit P0335. He removed sensor and freeze with cold air to cool down sensor and car started.
We wait till was hot and car didn't start. He removed again freezed and car started. After quick conversation we decide to buy another sensor as was looks like this one is bad.
I bring new parts mechanic fit it car started no issue and also we was able do delete code P0335 which was impossible with previous one.
We warm up engine switch Off/ON and car didn't started. Is same issue is cranking till I will switch off by key. I will be not supriced if car would crank till battery will be run off power.
I can keep car crank 5sec or 10 sec even longer and will not start when is hot. Mechanic again remove Crank sensor and use cold air to cool down.
He put back and this time car didn't started so he freeze again and car started.
We don't have any codes as before P0335 and what I found out car will start up after 2 or 3 attempt which with previous sensors was impossible.
It is possible dealer have bad batch of those sensors ?? With first one I couldn't start at all when car was hot.
With second one sometimes working with out problem but sometimes need 2-3 attempt and will start when is hot and we don't have any Starting issue when car is COLD.

Sorry for long post but I want to cover all option and everything which we did.

I'm wonder if any one had same issue as this one

 

My first guess is that your mechanic's dealer bought counterfeit or used Chinese sensors.

 

both at box are stated Made In Germany

 

they counterfeit the box too

buy the sensor from a different supplier

 

That what I do not understand. I returned 1 and they don't want to give me refund till BOSH will do tests.
They explained Sensor was post to them and waiting for results. I just waiting for friend which he have same car. we will remove his crank sensor and put to me.
Also we will move this to his and see how is works

 

good idea to take one from working car

 

Sounds like you may have two problems occurring at once.
Have a good look at actual values with a proper tester.
eg. Oil temperature , air-mass etc.

 

I installed sensor from working car and same issue. Car starting when is cold but have issue when is hot. Friend of main mentioned to check what voltage I have when car is working and was 13.8V. I turn off car and couldn't start again. After car cool down I drive home and switch off car. I try start after 10 sec and was OK. I try start after 10 min and was OK. I check voltage again on on running car and was showing 14.20V. It is possible all starting problem is related to voltage which was under 14 ??

 

The voltage when the engine is running should be between 13.6 vdc and 14.4 vdc. With the engine off the voltage should between 12.4 vdc and 12.8 vdc.

 

At this point it is above of my knowledge. Scaner for $5000 couldnt find anything appart of error with crank sensor which is showing when issue acured otherwise is not there. Another error is from brake switch so maybe this messing with starts.

 

Have you had any other work done lately ?

 

Hello
No I didnt do any work but I found code from brake switch. Don't know if this can be related or not.
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Lots of things act-up or even are damaged if battery voltage when cranking is too low. The components actually draw more CURRENT which causes much mire HEAT in the components A 'weak battery' may measure full voltage with no load on it, but will drop to 10 VDC or lower voltage when there is starting load. A suspect battery must be 'load tested.' Sometimes they can be partially recovered by a long slow charge---which can reconvert the hardened lead sulfate back to lead oxide.