Needleroozer

My 2001 S 430 sits there for days, elegant and lovely and level as the day she was born. But when I drive her she often falls and can't get up. It's always dropping in front. The first time I let it sit until my next day off, and fearing failed struts did a leak test with bubble solution but found nothing. I played with the console switches and it would say it was trying to raise the car but of course it wouldn't, and then one time it did! The message about the car rising went away, and when I got out of the car it was high! I drove it for a few days then it dropped again. At this point I should mention that I live on a quarter-mile long dirt/gravel road, and the car drops either on the way out or back, but fortunately it's always been on that road so I'm close to home.

So this time I put it on the SDS and it said there's nothing wrong with the controller, check the individual codes for what's wrong. The code was (I don't recall, should have taken notes) "the front has dropped." It basically said "look for a leak." I know it's not leaking, it does hold air. But guess what? Trying to read the codes raised the car! So I went through all the pneumatic checks and the right front valve failed! I tested it twice again and it passed each time. Hmmm. Drove the car the next day and it dropped again on the road out. Got it home, it's been a couple days now and I put it on the SDS again tonight. When I opened the door I heard the pump run, to no avail. When I connected up the SDS this time it didn't fix itself. But when I tested the valves the car raised -- and all valves passed.

I suspect that the right front valve has a problem that only appears when the suspension is working hard on my bumpy road. Does that seem reasonable? The Mercedes-Benz diagnostic suggests a leak, but that's inconsistent with my symptoms. I could change the valve body but something tells me that with my luck it's something else and I'd like to get an experienced opinion. I have a nagging question about why using the valves doesn't raise the car but testing them does. It's as if the controller goes into Fail mode and it won't reset until you connect it to SDS.

My real concern is getting the car to a shop. Is there a fuse I can pull to disable Airmatic and force it to work statically? A sort of limp-mode for the suspension? Or will pulling the fuse just cause the car to drop? Not as any sort of "fix" but just to literally limp to the shop.

tusabes

The valve body is cheap replace it and retest

Needleroozer

The cheapest I've found is $210. Cheaper than the struts I feared I needed, but for me that's not pocket change. Well worth it if that's the problem, a real waste if it's not. But I'm leaning toward replacing it anyway...

Ebrazil

Rather than start a new post, I hope that you all don't mind me cutting in.

I'm having similar problems. For a while, I would hear funny noise in the suspension driving over ruff terrain. When I let it sit overnight, I'd have to pray the next morning that she would lift. At one point, car did not lift at all and I got concern. Once I ran over something in the road and the rear dropped. I thought that I had broken a hose or a strut was damaged, so I put new/rebuilt struts on the rear. Didn't lift and found in a forum discussion that there was a relay in the center of the car. Adjusted it, the rear lifted and problem solved. Did scan of suspension and one of the codes was for pump. Replaced airmatic pump and valve body, no change but code cleared. Purchased new front struts, nothing. Went to the LQK and got front relays to swap out. No change. Had a system read for DTC's. and one of them was for Damping Valves. Made arrangement with the manufacturer to swap out the struts and they sent a new pair. Did another scan and got the following Fault Codes:

• Suspension 4 problems exist:
• 1.C1026-128 Steering Angle Sensor Is Not Initialized.
• 2.C1322 Fault In Component Y52y1(Right Front Solenoid Valve 1) In Assembly Y52(right Front Axle Damping Valve Unit)
• 3.C1323 Fault In Component Y52y2(Right Front Solenoid Valve 2) In Assembly Y52(right Front Axle Damping Valve Unit)
• 4.C1517-001 Critical Vehicle Level At Front

No air leaking from top connections, and the passenger front tries to lift but just can't get the car fender clear of the top of the rim. Took off the air hose to the top of the font of the struts, air seemed to be pumping through. The scanner says I believe 4.80 to 5.25 bars in system (will check accuracy if necessary). The driver side will not lift at all, even when the system is isolated and actuated from the scanner.

I like this body style and the engine is right on. Some one help otherwise, I have contemplated sending it to the LKQ grave yard. Help me save my car please.

wallyp

"... found in a forum discussion that there was a relay in the center of the car. Adjusted it, the rear lifted and problem solved."
There is a big difference between a relay and a level sensor. What you adjusted was the rear ride level sensor.

"Purchased new front struts, nothing. Went to the LQK and got front relays to swap out. No change."
Again, this sounds as if you replaced the front ride level sensors.

"1.C1026-128 Steering Angle Sensor Is Not Initialized."

Every time that the battery voltage gets very low, or the battery is disconnected, there are over a dozen things that may (almost always) need resetting. This is one of those. You reset it (and a couple of other things) by turning the steering wheel to full left lock, then full right lock, then back to full left lock.

"2.C1322 Fault In Component Y52y1(Right Front Solenoid Valve 1) In Assembly Y52(right Front Axle Damping Valve Unit)
3.C1323 Fault In Component Y52y2(Right Front Solenoid Valve 2) In Assembly Y52(right Front Axle Damping Valve Unit)"

The round can attached near the bottom of the strut contains the variable-dampening (strut stiffness) valve assembly. The codes indicate that either the valve has failed (non-repairable, non-replaceable), or there is a wiring or connector problem in the wire harness going to the valve. The most common problem is in the pair of connectors on the front of the wheel-well housing. It can be very difficult to get these installed correctly. You must align the top and bottom connectors precisely, and insert them very carefully straight into the wheel-well connector.

It really isn't clear what your problem actually is, whether it is that the right front strut will not lift at all, or that it lifts but falls every night and then lifts part-way to the proper ride level, or it doesn't fall at all, but won't lift to the proper ride height, or...
It would help our diagnosis to know.

Your life with Airmatic will be much less stressful if you spend some time learning the system. This might help:

https://w220.ee/Airmatic

Ebrazil

Thanks Wally for your reply.

Yes, my vernacular was a little off during my explanation. Yes, when I referred to relay, I was talking about the leveling sensors.

To clarify my problem, the rear of the car lifts and the front fails to lift to drivable height. I mentioned the difference in the level just to provide factual information I thought would help someone diagnosis this concern. The passenger side lifts just above the rim but the driver's side doesn't seem to lift at all.

I angle sensor fault, I understand how to correct but I can't turn the steering wheel either way. Thanks for your suggestion to answer to 2 and 3. Tomorrow, I will more thoroughly inspect the electrical connections. Hopefully, this will correct my issue. Whatever the outcome, I will update the forum.

Just so you are aware, I was aware of the Airmatic page, but did not find the information, or possibly, overlooked the information. But it is a good reference and I will peruse it again.

Thank you.

wallyp

Okay, the compressor has power and works, which also eliminates the compressor relay (common problem).
Some possibilities:
- The strut is not getting air because the valve block has failed. Some air coming out lessens the chances of this, but the valve might be only opening a tiny bit. I would still expect a good strut to eventually pump up.
- There is a leak in the air line to the strut. Not too likely, but possible.
- The strut is getting air, but the diaphragm has split.
- The strut is getting air, but the ride height sensor is faulty, is mounted incorrectly or is otherwise lying to the computer and telling it that the car is level.
- There is a break in the wire harness between the sensor and the computer, usually the wheel-well connector. Failing on a rough road makes this my first guess.

Mercedes sold emergency rubber blocks that allow you to jack the car, then insert a rubber block between the suspension and the chassis and drive the car. Check the Airmatic article I referenced - I think that the blocks are mentioned there. A friend had strut failure on the road. He limped to a Harbor Freight store and bought a couple of rubber parking chocks, a hack saw, and some wire ties and MacGyvered his way home.

tusabes

Get the valve block
if $200 is too much for you then this isn’t the right car to own

these cars easily need $1000-2000 a year in maintenance and repair

Ebrazil

To Wallyp: Had some time today and I pulled the tires off to check the strut connectors. The wires connection pulled out easily. Pulled the retaining wire "U" off and pushed the connectors back in as tight as I could get them. After I got the tires back on, I did another read with both my iCarsoft and Zurich and on the Suspension 2 problems exist:

1.C1026-128 Steering Angle Sensor Is Not Initialized.
2.C1517-001 Critical Vehicle Level At Front

Tomorrow, I will try and purchase the valve block from one of our local part supplier and install and post the results.

wallyp

Was the Critical Vehicle error "F" (current) or "f" (stored)"?

Was there any difference in the actual vehicle level?

Ebrazil

I believe that they were current codes. I'm not sure if they where stored. I will check in a few minutes.

I take the battery off because the pump runs intermittently so, I would presume that the DTCs are cleared. Give me a few and I will respond.

Ebrazil

To all, these are current DTCs. Just to provide info, I was running the car during the diagnostic. I hear a sound after the pump stop like a pressure reliever valve dumping excess air. Like on a tractor trailer. Never noticed this before. Sound seemed to be on driver's side front.

if no intervention, I had planned to purchase a valve block today.

Thank you all for all anticipated help.

Ebrazil

Tusabes, In response to your post, I brought the part from dealership. I spent a little more than $200 though. I guess that entitles me to be able to drive the car. Just for you info, I have purchased 4 new struts, new pump and the only thing I was referring to that I got from a recycler was the level sensors.

I will install and hopefully respond to the forum with positive results.

tusabes

Where did you buy the 4 new struts and pump ? Dealer or Ebay ? Genuine Mercedes or Chinese aftermarket ?

I bet your problem will be revealed in the answer to that

Ebrazil

To all.

just finished the install and sad to report that there is no difference.

I purchased the struts from a place not far from me in Florida, Suncore. I have purchased from them before when replaced struts on wife's and mother-in-law Benzs. They sell reman Arnott and some other brands I'm sure. And, yes I believe they have advertised on Ebay. And your point is? If it's not to add any sound advice to help solve this puzzle, please don't frustrate the process. The purpose of me asking for help in the forum is not to be marginalized by its members, but to seek logical systematic help from fellow Benz owners and techs to solve this concern. I just happens to be able to turn a wrench.

Now, scanned again and no fault codes. Any other suggestions? Is there a way to manually pump air into struts individually. A way to electrically activate the damping circuit?

Thanks in advance for your help.

tusabes

It’s not to marginalize you , it’s to point out that the cheap eBay refurb and china stuff just does not work more often than not

we all try to save money and we all have been through this before with the eBay China parts . Myself Included

so until you are willing to admit you are buying crap parts there’s nothing we can offer to help you

Ebrazil

As I mentioned, I purchased struts from Suncore, which is a few minutes north of me. I admit, they have and probably still do advertise on Ebay. I go directly to the shop and pick them up or have them UPS-ed to me. And as I stated, I have used them before with no problems.

Following Wallyp's logic board, pump is good, valve block is new, no codes. Here's a question. Are the leveling sensors ambidextrous? They look to work both ways. The ones I pulled of where original Mercedes and the same part number inscribed on the unit. Could it be that I have confused their placement? I will check resistance to see.

If the answer is yes, tomorrow, I'm going to pump compressed air into the struts and see if there is blow by the seals. Primarily on driver's side because I have seen the passenger side try and raise. And I know the the car's system will fail the non-offending side as well. If there is blow by, I will replace the strut. But, if no repair, I'm not going to throw too much more money at it.

Let you guys know.

wallyp

All W220 Airmatic sensors are the same identical unit. The arms may vary.
It is easy to mount the sensors incorrectly. They depend upon small bumps for correct placement.
It is easy for the arms to be bent or misinstalled.

"And I know the the car's system will fail the non-offending side as well. "
I have never seen that, nor heard that.

Ebrazil

"And I know the the car's system will fail the non-offending side as well. "
I have never seen that, nor heard that.[/QUOTE]

Thanks for your reply Wallyp. What I was restating information I had read that when one side of the front has an abs/air issue, rather than lean to one side, the car's system will lower both the failing side and the functioning side.

This morning I loosen the air line that leads into the top of the front struts, with the intentions of applying a little compressed air into the system and listen for leaks below, the system was pressurized. There was air in both left and right strut towers. Last night after posting my question about leveling sensor's positioning, that you answered Wallyp, I went to the garage and tested one I had on the shelf for resistance (which the multimeter showed resistance in the unit but the resistance did not change commensurate to the arm's position on the sensor). So thanks for clarifying that Mercedes only made one ambidextrous part that can be installed on either side of the front of W220. The one I was testing I pulled off a W220 at the recyclers (Mercedes genuine part) one with the wiring connector. As I was doing the test, it dawned on me the issue I had with the damping connectors that appeared to be connected and seated, the connector to the sensors may not be properly seated and not registering as Wallyp suggested in his logic table. If their is a break in the circuit, I would think that this would throw a code on the scanner, but at this time, all bets are off. I will check to see that they are connected properly and respond.

If this is determined not to be the issue, then I will look to a weak pump being the culprit. I have reservations about this theory because the front struts are holding air and the rear struts lift quickly. and air is in the front struts.

I owe Tusabes thanks for his suggestion to replace the valve body. In the past during this ordeal, whenever I've released air out of the system (i.e., replace pump, the valve block, etc.) the rear struts would raise, and leak down over night. This morning when I did my test I notice that the rear of the car was still raised.. So thanks, you helped me resolve an issue that would have plagued me in the future.

I will check connectors and advise.

Ebrazil

Theory about the connectors false. Although, the passenger side connector was not locked into place.

Will put my old pump on and see if that works.

Ebrazil

Changed pump to Wabco replacement, no change - front will not lift.

Ebrazil

Everyone, purchased a new pump, installed, now I have new valve block and new pump, but the front will still not lift. Any suggestions.

wallyp

I have no experience whatsoever with either of your scanners. I own and use DAS, the dealer-level Diagnostic Assistance System, which will tell you what the problems are, and will walk you thru detailed test and diagnosis steps.

"Theory about the connectors false. Although, the passenger side connector was not locked into place."
I do not know what this means. I do know, with a very high degree of certainty, that the twin-connectors at the front of each of the wheel wells are extremely easy to install improperly, and that skilled, experienced Mercedes technicians will admit that they sometimes have difficulty getting these connections installed properly.

If the rear of the car will rise to normal ride height quickly and reliably, the relay and pump are working, as is the rear level sensor and its connections.

If the front of the car will not rise to normal ride height at all, or not in a reasonable time, some possibilities include:
- You have a failed strut that is leaking air. If this is the case, one side of the front will usually rise at least partially.
- The control valve has failed.
- One or both of the front level sensors have failed, or are installed incorrectly, or are not connected correctly. (In my opinion, high probability.)
- The Airmatic control module or a module connection has failed. (In my opinion, a low probability.)

Good luck.

Ebrazil

Thanks Wally for your reply.

"Theory about the connectors false. Although, the passenger side connector was not locked into place." I was attempting to think logically through the process of what could be wrong and typed my musing to try and list what I'm doing so you all, who are not here, can read and get a better understanding of what I am experiencing or doing.

You are exactly correct in stating that the damping connectors, on either side of the front of the vehicle, is a married pair and slides into a receptacle on the shock tower. You are absolutely correct that it was one of my issues because it was installed by me incorrectly. Further, because of that error, it was throwing the aforementioned code. After following your advice, making sure that they where properly seated into the receptacles, I was able to close the circuit that the DTC scanner and Mercedes system was recognizing. The Mercedes system cleared the code on its own and my scanner did not detect a fault during a subsequent scan.

To be clear, I know that everyone is pressed for time and in most cases briefly scans the post for updates. I was suggesting and theorizing that as with what you had suggested with the damping connect, I could have overlooked properly connecting the level senor and hoping that a short or failing connector would be the colprit. Therefore, I was advising the forum that "my theory" about the leveling sensors was incorrect.

I will replace the sensors and see. If not, I have one of the old Arnot struts I took off. I will replace on driver's side sense many of the issues have been on that side if the sensors are not the case.

Steven Mott

I would first make sure your fuse and relay are good.Then at each strut where the air line threads into the top are little o rings that get tore and leak, this goes for the valve block as well.If the compressor is working I would bet this would fix problem"start "at your right front as you say.only thing left would be height sensors or crack in airline but rare.