Airmatic puzzle. First post
06-11-2021, 10:20 AM
#1
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2004 s500
Airmatic puzzle. First post
Hello everyone. This is my first post.
I recently came upon a 2004 s500. The car had been sitting on the driveway for almost a year. When I went to pick it up, the battery was dead and all 4 corners where bottomed out. The Owner said once it starts it will raise within 2 minutes. I took the battery out and had it charged over night and the car started right away. The only massage on the cluster was "stop, vehicle too low". I waited for a while but nothing happened until I pressed the button on the dash to raise the car. It took about 5 to 10 minutes to raise the car to somewhat normal height so it can be driven. I drove it home and parked it on my driveway. After a couple of hours I noticed the car has started to go down again. By the following morning it had bottomed out on all 4 corners again. I disconnected the battery so that the bump will not burn out. I would connect it and raise the car by activating the button when I want to drive (only short distances).
I started doing research into trouble shooting it, but could not find any clear answers on why all 4 would bottom out (wheels touching fender well covers). I had noticed that the right side would start going down first, and also the RR would only go up half way and not more. My first suspect was the RR strut, and I thought this strut was sucking all the air out of the system and dropping all 4. But upon coming across a very informative site I found on a UK forum (https://w220.ee/Airmatic), it mentions that each strut has a built in "Residual pressure valve" that does not allow the bag to deflate below 4-5 bars.
So my question is (Finally), if all 4 are bottoming out, does this mean that all the struts are leaking?
Thanks.
Harout.
I recently came upon a 2004 s500. The car had been sitting on the driveway for almost a year. When I went to pick it up, the battery was dead and all 4 corners where bottomed out. The Owner said once it starts it will raise within 2 minutes. I took the battery out and had it charged over night and the car started right away. The only massage on the cluster was "stop, vehicle too low". I waited for a while but nothing happened until I pressed the button on the dash to raise the car. It took about 5 to 10 minutes to raise the car to somewhat normal height so it can be driven. I drove it home and parked it on my driveway. After a couple of hours I noticed the car has started to go down again. By the following morning it had bottomed out on all 4 corners again. I disconnected the battery so that the bump will not burn out. I would connect it and raise the car by activating the button when I want to drive (only short distances).
I started doing research into trouble shooting it, but could not find any clear answers on why all 4 would bottom out (wheels touching fender well covers). I had noticed that the right side would start going down first, and also the RR would only go up half way and not more. My first suspect was the RR strut, and I thought this strut was sucking all the air out of the system and dropping all 4. But upon coming across a very informative site I found on a UK forum (https://w220.ee/Airmatic), it mentions that each strut has a built in "Residual pressure valve" that does not allow the bag to deflate below 4-5 bars.
So my question is (Finally), if all 4 are bottoming out, does this mean that all the struts are leaking?
Thanks.
Harout.
06-12-2021, 08:54 AM
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
"...the RR would only go up half way and not more..."
All too common. In fact, the left front strut on my 2003 S500 just exhibited the same behavior last night, so I have ordered a replacement strut. If you look at the diagrams in the Airmatic wiki (excellent source of information, by the way - if you had not found it, that link would have been in this reply), you will see that the diaphragm that supports the car rolls up and down inside the strut. When a split or hole develops in the diaphragm it is sometimes at a position where the leak is pressed against the strut enough to almost stop air from leaking out. If the strut lifts enough to uncover the leak, lifting stops.
The Airmatic system has the capability to control the ride height, raising or lowering the struts as needed. The residual pressure is mainly to keep the struts from fully collapsing. A fully collapsed strut may have a fold in the rolling diaphragm, and repressurizing the strut might then damage the diaphragm. The residual pressure is not sufficient to support the car, so if the system air pressure is depleted. the struts will drop the car. This does not mean that every strut is leaking.
The valve block contains a valve for each strut and a valve for the system as a whole. When the car is asleep, all valves should be closed. If the system were perfect except for the leaking right rear strut, only that strut should drop - but remember that dropping that strut will increase the weight borne by the other three struts, so they will drop to some extent.
It is very common for there to be more than one Airmatic problem after seventeen years of service. I bought the S500 a year or so ago, and the leaking right front will be the fourth strut that I have had to replace. In addition, I had disassembled and refurbished the valve block (replacing O-rings and cleaning everything), but finally decided that I wanted to replace it, which is why I had the car in the shop working on it last night. Don't be surprised if you have to make repeated Airmatic repairs over the next year.
All too common. In fact, the left front strut on my 2003 S500 just exhibited the same behavior last night, so I have ordered a replacement strut. If you look at the diagrams in the Airmatic wiki (excellent source of information, by the way - if you had not found it, that link would have been in this reply), you will see that the diaphragm that supports the car rolls up and down inside the strut. When a split or hole develops in the diaphragm it is sometimes at a position where the leak is pressed against the strut enough to almost stop air from leaking out. If the strut lifts enough to uncover the leak, lifting stops.
The Airmatic system has the capability to control the ride height, raising or lowering the struts as needed. The residual pressure is mainly to keep the struts from fully collapsing. A fully collapsed strut may have a fold in the rolling diaphragm, and repressurizing the strut might then damage the diaphragm. The residual pressure is not sufficient to support the car, so if the system air pressure is depleted. the struts will drop the car. This does not mean that every strut is leaking.
The valve block contains a valve for each strut and a valve for the system as a whole. When the car is asleep, all valves should be closed. If the system were perfect except for the leaking right rear strut, only that strut should drop - but remember that dropping that strut will increase the weight borne by the other three struts, so they will drop to some extent.
It is very common for there to be more than one Airmatic problem after seventeen years of service. I bought the S500 a year or so ago, and the leaking right front will be the fourth strut that I have had to replace. In addition, I had disassembled and refurbished the valve block (replacing O-rings and cleaning everything), but finally decided that I wanted to replace it, which is why I had the car in the shop working on it last night. Don't be surprised if you have to make repeated Airmatic repairs over the next year.
06-12-2021, 05:06 PM
#3
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2004 s500
"...the RR would only go up half way and not more..."
All too common. In fact, the left front strut on my 2003 S500 just exhibited the same behavior last night, so I have ordered a replacement strut. If you look at the diagrams in the Airmatic wiki (excellent source of information, by the way - if you had not found it, that link would have been in this reply), you will see that the diaphragm that supports the car rolls up and down inside the strut. When a split or hole develops in the diaphragm it is sometimes at a position where the leak is pressed against the strut enough to almost stop air from leaking out. If the strut lifts enough to uncover the leak, lifting stops.
The Airmatic system has the capability to control the ride height, raising or lowering the struts as needed. The residual pressure is mainly to keep the struts from fully collapsing. A fully collapsed strut may have a fold in the rolling diaphragm, and repressurizing the strut might then damage the diaphragm. The residual pressure is not sufficient to support the car, so if the system air pressure is depleted. the struts will drop the car. This does not mean that every strut is leaking.
The valve block contains a valve for each strut and a valve for the system as a whole. When the car is asleep, all valves should be closed. If the system were perfect except for the leaking right rear strut, only that strut should drop - but remember that dropping that strut will increase the weight borne by the other three struts, so they will drop to some extent.
It is very common for there to be more than one Airmatic problem after seventeen years of service. I bought the S500 a year or so ago, and the leaking right front will be the fourth strut that I have had to replace. In addition, I had disassembled and refurbished the valve block (replacing O-rings and cleaning everything), but finally decided that I wanted to replace it, which is why I had the car in the shop working on it last night. Don't be surprised if you have to make repeated Airmatic repairs over the next year.
All too common. In fact, the left front strut on my 2003 S500 just exhibited the same behavior last night, so I have ordered a replacement strut. If you look at the diagrams in the Airmatic wiki (excellent source of information, by the way - if you had not found it, that link would have been in this reply), you will see that the diaphragm that supports the car rolls up and down inside the strut. When a split or hole develops in the diaphragm it is sometimes at a position where the leak is pressed against the strut enough to almost stop air from leaking out. If the strut lifts enough to uncover the leak, lifting stops.
The Airmatic system has the capability to control the ride height, raising or lowering the struts as needed. The residual pressure is mainly to keep the struts from fully collapsing. A fully collapsed strut may have a fold in the rolling diaphragm, and repressurizing the strut might then damage the diaphragm. The residual pressure is not sufficient to support the car, so if the system air pressure is depleted. the struts will drop the car. This does not mean that every strut is leaking.
The valve block contains a valve for each strut and a valve for the system as a whole. When the car is asleep, all valves should be closed. If the system were perfect except for the leaking right rear strut, only that strut should drop - but remember that dropping that strut will increase the weight borne by the other three struts, so they will drop to some extent.
It is very common for there to be more than one Airmatic problem after seventeen years of service. I bought the S500 a year or so ago, and the leaking right front will be the fourth strut that I have had to replace. In addition, I had disassembled and refurbished the valve block (replacing O-rings and cleaning everything), but finally decided that I wanted to replace it, which is why I had the car in the shop working on it last night. Don't be surprised if you have to make repeated Airmatic repairs over the next year.
thanks for the the info. Very helpful.
I will definitely start with replacing the RR strut and maybe the value body. I have ordered both from amazon. The strut is made by Dorman and the valve body looks like a Chinese make. Both parts were about $300, which is what a dealer would probably charge just to diagnose it.
06-12-2021, 11:03 PM
#5
MBWorld Fanatic!
I agree with tusabes - don't buy cheap new parts from Amazon or eBay. But - your car, your money, your labor.
I just bought an Arnott rebuilt front strut from Autozone. I know that there are some folks who advise against Arnott, but...
" Ordered Arnott rebuilt thru Autozone. $383 plus tax and $60 core charge, free delivery to my home June 15th (shipped directly from Arnott), less 20% ($76.60), so the final cost after I take the core back will be about $312. That will be all four struts, new valve block and self-rebuilt compressor. I'm hoping for a reasonable period of trouble-free Airmatic operation..."
I bought a new Original Valve Block from an on-line Mercedes parts website.
I ordered from a generic Mercedes Parts web site. I was a little skeptical that I would really get a genuine Mercedes part, but the address came up as a Mercedes dealership (not Mercedes of Ft. Washington). I placed the order, and the response was from Mercedes of Ft. Washington. Apparently, there is a group of dealerships who sell from a common website. (?)
This is not the website that I used, but it was one of the first that popped up.
www.mercedesbenzpartscenter.com
Cart
No Vehicle Selected
Search Bar 6
Search by Part Number(s), Keywords, or VINHomeMERCEDES-BENZ 220-320-02-58
Solenoid Valve - Mercedes-Benz (220-320-02-58)
2000-2006 Mercedes-Benz
ADD TO CART
Manufacturer WarrantyMinimum of 12 Months
Guaranteed FitmentAlways the correct parts
Shop with ConfidenceYour information is safe
In-House ExpertsWe know our products
I just bought an Arnott rebuilt front strut from Autozone. I know that there are some folks who advise against Arnott, but...
" Ordered Arnott rebuilt thru Autozone. $383 plus tax and $60 core charge, free delivery to my home June 15th (shipped directly from Arnott), less 20% ($76.60), so the final cost after I take the core back will be about $312. That will be all four struts, new valve block and self-rebuilt compressor. I'm hoping for a reasonable period of trouble-free Airmatic operation..."
I bought a new Original Valve Block from an on-line Mercedes parts website.
I ordered from a generic Mercedes Parts web site. I was a little skeptical that I would really get a genuine Mercedes part, but the address came up as a Mercedes dealership (not Mercedes of Ft. Washington). I placed the order, and the response was from Mercedes of Ft. Washington. Apparently, there is a group of dealerships who sell from a common website. (?)
This is not the website that I used, but it was one of the first that popped up.
Solenoid Valve - 2000-2006 Mercedes-Benz (220-320-02-58) | MB Parts Center
2000-2006 Mercedes-Benz Solenoid Valve 220-320-02-58 www.mercedesbenzpartscenter.comCart
No Vehicle Selected
Search Bar 6
Search by Part Number(s), Keywords, or VINHomeMERCEDES-BENZ 220-320-02-58
Solenoid Valve - Mercedes-Benz (220-320-02-58)
2000-2006 Mercedes-Benz
- MSRP:$354.00
- Discount:$101.72 (28.70% off)
- Sale Price:$252.28
ADD TO CART
Manufacturer WarrantyMinimum of 12 Months
Guaranteed FitmentAlways the correct parts
Shop with ConfidenceYour information is safe
In-House ExpertsWe know our products
- Genuine:
- SKU:220-320-02-58
- Other Names:Valve
- Description:
S600, s55. S350, s65. Damping valve. S420, s430, s500. Without 4-matic. - Condition:New
- Applications:1.
06-13-2021, 04:47 AM
#6
Junior Member
The AliExpress ones are also worth considering if you're on a budget, a friend has one in his '05 s500 for 3 years now no problems at all. He says the rubber is even thicker than oem. And they are shipping from the states now also.
Last edited by Kammie; 06-13-2021 at 04:50 AM.
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06-28-2021, 04:40 PM
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2004 s500
Thanks for all the replies.
It turned out I had multiple component failures.
I replaced the valve block, the RR strut and air line going to the RR.
The car can stand up on it's own now.
Now I have to figure out phantom "check bulb" warnings. I will post a new thread.
It turned out I had multiple component failures.
I replaced the valve block, the RR strut and air line going to the RR.
The car can stand up on it's own now.
Now I have to figure out phantom "check bulb" warnings. I will post a new thread.
