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Mercedes benz rear subframe mount replacement 1998-2006
Hello thank you in advance for all the help with these amazing posts as there is almost none available otherwise ill do my best to return the favor I've got a 2001 s55 amg w220 with shot rear subframe mounts and rear front upper control arms they are so shot that my rear tires will grind on the outside of the metal wheel well when turning corners hard making a horrific chalk board scratching noise my tires are extremely worn out on the inside as well as the side wall is being chewed up from the rubbing the rear sub frame can be shook around almost by hand with the car lifted certainly with a pry bar the 2 rear rearward subframe mounts are visibly very cracked and separating in two my control arms can be moved around by hand rather easily the car has 377 000kms currently and its had a tough life here in Canada still runs like a top ! in the next little while I'm going to be completing the full replacement of all 4 rear subframe mounts as well as the rear frontward upper control arms only accessible with the subframe down on the w220 s class this guide should apply to most Mercedes Benz from 1999 to 2006 including all s classes e classes c classes and ml classes ( 300 320 430 500 55) (e300, e320, e430, e500, e55, s320, s430, s500 ,s55, c230, c300, cl500 cl55, ml320 ml430 ml500 ml55) (1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006) (<for google search results) I'll be walking you through the whole process and giving steps tips and tricks on how to do the job there isn't any other posts or videos or much information on how to do this job so my goal here is to be the first let's get started !!! If you have a car body with individual front and rear subframes mounted onto the body this is the thread for you : )
Last edited by Iak; 11-27-2023 at 12:09 AM.
Reason: Cleaning up post
So far I've started by 1. removing the exhaust completely from the manifold backwards pretty simple tedious to get to the bolts i used a wobble attachement and a solid swivel with extentions and a dewalt electric impact 4 bolts on the down pipes two on each side broke 2 not a big deal they come out no problem after then 4 bolts at the transmission pan 2 where stripped on the inside shoved a bar in there to stop them from spinning then took cross member out near center support bearing then took 4 rubber donuts off two at the subframe are easy and two at the exhaust tips hidden up in the rear bumper are weird and I waited for those the bolts where all corroded I dropped the downpipes out at the front took some abc suspension stuff off there and slid downpipes out then pulled the whole exhaust forward to slide it out of those final 2 rubber donuts at the rear bumper 2. next I took the rear wheels off 3. then inner wheel liner 4. then brake calipers make sure to disconnect the one brake wear sensor from the subframe I zip tied the calipers to the inner fender wall to hold them there then took rotors off 5. next removed both wheel speed sensors from subframe and hung them up on the body 6. next I took the big heat shield off to expose the driveshaft 7. next I unhooked the 2 parking brake cables with pliers first one was kinda hard second was easy make sure your parking brake is fully disengaged for maximum slack then I pulled the two rear parking brake cables out of their seating and fed them freely on top of subframe 8. next I did the 2 driveshaft center support bolts so the driveshaft is floating 9. next I removed the 4 flex disc bolts holding the driveshaft to the rear rubber flex disc 10. next this step is tedious put the car in neutral I took multiple flat head screw drivers started small increased in size as the bushings came out slowly using the corner of the screwdriver and hammering it in as a divider one bushing at a time spinning the driveshaft around by hand I hammered a screwdriver in between the flex disc bushing and the driveshaft to slowly unseat the driveshaft from the flex disc without wrecking anything do not use a pry bar on the rubber you'll wreak the flex discs and they won't come out trust me I tried already with my old set put a flat head in between the flex disc bushing and the driveshaft metal on metal and hammer it in the side between the two separating them slowly and spin around do them evenly will save you lots of time and energy 11. After unseating the flex disc from the prop shaft I remove the rear prop shaft piece make sure you know how it goes back together front part of the driveshaft will have a protruding small line marking it can be hard to see rear prop shaft piece will have two lines with a gap in between also hard to see the two lines on the rear prop shaft need to align in the middle of the one line on the front prop shaft piece it can only go on one way so that the front lines up in the middle of the two rear lines mark it if your not sure I'll be changing my center support bearing again bought a crappy Napa 50$ one a year ago thought nothing of it but it stared squeeling like a pig few weeks ago when car was cold so make sure to buy a good brand when doing center support bearing and flex discs I'd recommend changing that and flex discs if you are doing subframe mounts may as well it's all apart anyways just a few more bolts to take front prop shaft out check your inner prop shaft bushings and your splines in the middle for play but anyways so far that's where I'm at tommorow I'm thinking I've gotta do something with the suspension its on coil overs but I'm thinking when I drop the subframe those will be holding it in place I'm hoping to reach the upper suspension bolts as the lower one is severely corroded I'm unsure how to access the top rear suspension bolts I checked the trunk liner took that out but couldn't access looks like they lead right overtop of the rear c pillar but there's a bunch of crap there I've got a speaker right there in the corner and the rear reclining seats I'm unsure of how to disassemble without wreaking anything so I stopped there to do more resarch tommorow I'm hoping to get the top coil over nuts out and the 4 subframe bolts out my rear lift pucks are completely rotted out so I have jack stands with flat pieces of wood ontop on each side of the rear of the body right before the subframe I was careful to look in the plastic shield to not crush any lines going forward there's a lot of them also the whole fuel pump/filter assembly on driver side it seems to hold up well with the large wood on top wouldn't trust just a jackstand even on the lift pucks mine collapsed right in have the pump jack setup on the differential and its ready to lower the subframe I don't think I'm missing anything other then those suspension bolts but we shall see tommorow I found some sketchy rear rearward subframe mounts from Egypt on eBay we shall see if they work also got some part number direct from Mercedes went there today to order some new exhaust hardware and rear exhaust tip clamps avoid buying anything at the dealership the exhaust square nuts where 11$ a piece so 44$ for 4 square nutz then the bolts where 15$ a pop 60$ for bolts my rear exhaust tip clamps where rotted 45$ per clamp so in total over 200$ for 4 bolts 4 square nuts and two exhaust clamps absolute bs they wanted 450$ per rear rearward subframe mount and 320$ per rear frontward subframe mounts totalling over 1800$ with tax just for 4 rubber subframe mounts eBay wants roughly 60$ per for rear frontward ones and 90$ per for rear rearward ones much more reasonable lol 340$ total delivered to my house its febi bilstein hopefully they are good quality dunno but anyways I'll keep everyone posted on tomorow and if that subframe will drop out or not if anyone knows anything about the top rear suspention bolts plz help me or if you know anything about aftermarket quality as well found swag, meyle , or febi bilstein rear rearward subframe mounts which is best ? Thanks and I'll keep everyone posted when this project is done I'll clean up.the post and simply for the next guy so he doesn't have to read all my rants lol heres some pictures of the dealership listed part numbers too !!
got the subframe down turns out the "speaker" caps are just fake ones there is nothing under them simply pop them off behind the back seats up there and bam your 3 bolts are exposed took those out grabbed the proper e socket set and used a pry bar to remove the subframe bolts then dropped it out after taking everything off there was nothing left holding it in place dropped it down suspention stuck a bit but with some wiggles and pump jack drops it snapped off and came down now to extract the old subframe mounts and get my new ones in the mail in a few weeks I'll keep everyone posted and clean up the post for the next guy so he can have a clear concise tutorial on how to replace the subframe mounts as there aren't any out there today for w220 s class I'll be sure to keep everyone posted Thanks Rear rearward subframe mount seperation (bad) Very bad seperation Rear frontward subframe mounts cracked and split through i coild wiggle it around with my finger
Jump to Benz world if interested for the full thread thanks
Originally Posted by Iak
got the subframe down turns out the "speaker" caps are just fake ones there is nothing under them simply pop them off behind the back seats up there and bam your 3 bolts are exposed took those out grabbed the proper e socket set and used a pry bar to remove the subframe bolts then dropped it out after taking everything off there was nothing left holding it in place dropped it down suspention stuck a bit but with some wiggles and pump jack drops it snapped off and came down now to extract the old subframe mounts and get my new ones in the mail in a few weeks I'll keep everyone posted and clean up the post for the next guy so he can have a clear concise tutorial on how to replace the subframe mounts as there aren't any out there today for w220 s class I'll be sure to keep everyone posted Thanks Rear rearward subframe mount seperation (bad) Very bad seperation Rear frontward subframe mounts cracked and split through i coild wiggle it around with my finger
.... Hey guys I've jumped over to Benz world please go there for the full guide I've numbered the steps and simplified everything can't be asked to do it on here too don't wanna be that guy but Benz world is just a better website with better user interface easier to use ect not sure why you guys don't just combine forcese and have one big site not sure why we have two Mercedes Benz forums instead of one big one but anyways heres the link feel free to hop over Thanks... : https://www.benzworld.org/threads/19...ement.3132079/
11-24-2023, 01:16 PM
