Engine cranks, starts, then dies after 2,3 seconds. No OBDII code
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Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2013
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2006 Mercedes S430
Engine cranks, starts, then dies after 2,3 seconds. No OBDII code
Hello,
I have a 2006 S430. About 2 months ago my car started to have engine shaking or hard to accelerate at any intersection when I had the AC on; If I cut the AC off when stopping I can then drive forward like normal. Gradually I notice if the engine is warm or hot this will occur frequently. Last week I stopped at a gas station to pump gas, after finishing I could not start the engine, it cranked and died after a few seconds, I had to towed it home. Using an ODBII scanner I scanned the engine and compression, surprisingly there was no code. I can crank and the engine runs like normal for 10 seconds, and it slowly dies out. Once it dies I can restart the car but the engine dies after just 2, 3 seconds.
I watched some Youtube clips, and replaced the Crank Position Sensor to no avail, I opened the Mass Airflow Sensor section, cleaned it out, and even replaced the MAF, afterward I still have the same problem. The issue I see is the car can be started, then it dies after 10 seconds if the engine is cold. If the engine is warm or after the first cold start died-out the engine will stop after starting just 2,3 seconds. I can hear the fuel pump humping when turning the key to On position but not sure whether it is sufficient to say the fuel pump is good or not. Right now I am running out of idea and hesitate to mess with the fuel pump or 2nd fuel pump/filter underneath the car since it is costly and time consuming. I don't mind doing it if that is the way to fix the issue.
I need some advice what I can do next to diagnose, test it, or better yet to fix the problem.
Thanks in advance.
I have a 2006 S430. About 2 months ago my car started to have engine shaking or hard to accelerate at any intersection when I had the AC on; If I cut the AC off when stopping I can then drive forward like normal. Gradually I notice if the engine is warm or hot this will occur frequently. Last week I stopped at a gas station to pump gas, after finishing I could not start the engine, it cranked and died after a few seconds, I had to towed it home. Using an ODBII scanner I scanned the engine and compression, surprisingly there was no code. I can crank and the engine runs like normal for 10 seconds, and it slowly dies out. Once it dies I can restart the car but the engine dies after just 2, 3 seconds.
I watched some Youtube clips, and replaced the Crank Position Sensor to no avail, I opened the Mass Airflow Sensor section, cleaned it out, and even replaced the MAF, afterward I still have the same problem. The issue I see is the car can be started, then it dies after 10 seconds if the engine is cold. If the engine is warm or after the first cold start died-out the engine will stop after starting just 2,3 seconds. I can hear the fuel pump humping when turning the key to On position but not sure whether it is sufficient to say the fuel pump is good or not. Right now I am running out of idea and hesitate to mess with the fuel pump or 2nd fuel pump/filter underneath the car since it is costly and time consuming. I don't mind doing it if that is the way to fix the issue.
I need some advice what I can do next to diagnose, test it, or better yet to fix the problem.
Thanks in advance.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2012
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From: Ball Ground, GA (N of Atlanta)
2003 S500 2007 GL450
Check the chain auto parts stores near you and see if they have a "tool loan" program. Basically, you buy a tool, use it and take it back for a full refund - nothing shady, that's how they do the loan program. If they have the loan program, see if they have a kit to check fuel pressure.
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From: USA
Test fuel pressure first weak pump or clogged filter could cause stalling. Also check the EVAP purge valve (common after refueling) and clean the throttle body. A Mercedes-specific scanner may find hidden codes OBD2 misses. If those check out, inspect wiring/grounds for the crank sensor you replaced.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2013
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2006 Mercedes S430
Hello, thanks for the quick replies on the fuel pressure test. I got the Autozone loaner test kit and performed the initial pressure test with ignition On, no cranking. The pressure gauge shows between 50-52 PSI and stays in that range. After 15 seconds I cranked the engine, the pressure rose to 56-58 PSI and the engine started shaking after 7 seconds but the pressure stayed the same for a while. When I pressed on the gas pedal the engine RPM increased as it should but the fuel pressure seems to stay in the range, however, as soon as I released the gas pedal the engine RPM decreased quickly and the engine died. Does the fuel pressure test pass? What I should do next?
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From: Ball Ground, GA (N of Atlanta)
2003 S500 2007 GL450
Yes, the fuel pressure test was good, so don't spend time or money on the fuel supply system.
It sounds as if you have a sensor or control unit that is failing due to heat build up. Putting the STAR Diagnostic System (SDS) on the car would probably give you an immediate answer. If you give us you location, there is a slight chance that someone on this forum who has SDS would be close enough to help. There are other W220 forums that are active, such as Benzworld.
It sounds as if you have a sensor or control unit that is failing due to heat build up. Putting the STAR Diagnostic System (SDS) on the car would probably give you an immediate answer. If you give us you location, there is a slight chance that someone on this forum who has SDS would be close enough to help. There are other W220 forums that are active, such as Benzworld.
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Thread Starter
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2006 Mercedes S430
I have good thing happened to my car. Previously, whenever I started the car the engine vibrated and not running well, I turned it off after 2,3 minutes since I was afraid the engine might suffer some damages. However, last week after I put one concentrated Seafoam bottle in the gas tank, I let the engine running more than 3 minutes and I noticed the engine started to run smoother as time passing by. After 7-10 minutes the engine ran smooth like before. I am very happy since I can drive the car now. My thought is that the Seafoam kicked in and applied its chemical throughout the injectors and fuel lines and it cleared blockages.
I am still experiencing some car hesitation if I apply gas pedal when STOPPING at intersection (acceleration while driving is OK). I scanned the engine and got no ODB2 code, the hesitation still persists. I wonder whether the bad Fuel filter or Purge Valve cause that since I did not change either part because they have the Clic-R ring type wrapping around the tubes and I could not remove them. If they are the culprit I will cut thru the tubes, pull them out, replace the parts then I will use the simple (screw type) tube rings. I need you guru offer some thought how to determine whether the Purge valve or the fuel filter need to be replaced, I don't think both are bad. Is it other part/sensor I should look at?
I am still experiencing some car hesitation if I apply gas pedal when STOPPING at intersection (acceleration while driving is OK). I scanned the engine and got no ODB2 code, the hesitation still persists. I wonder whether the bad Fuel filter or Purge Valve cause that since I did not change either part because they have the Clic-R ring type wrapping around the tubes and I could not remove them. If they are the culprit I will cut thru the tubes, pull them out, replace the parts then I will use the simple (screw type) tube rings. I need you guru offer some thought how to determine whether the Purge valve or the fuel filter need to be replaced, I don't think both are bad. Is it other part/sensor I should look at?
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MBWorld Fanatic!
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From: Ball Ground, GA (N of Atlanta)
2003 S500 2007 GL450
Acceleration is severely limited while the brake pedal is pressed at all. While you are stopped in a safe situation, gently press the brake pedal and floor the accelerator pedal and see what happens.
In the future, just remember to never press the brake and accelerator at the same time.
In the future, just remember to never press the brake and accelerator at the same time.
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2006 Mercedes S430
I don't brake and pressing gas pedal at the same time since I always use the right foot to operate the car, only press one pedal at a time. I notice the acceleration issue mostly happens if I have the AC run, to avoid it I turn the AC off whenever I stop at red light and it seems OK but not always. It is annoying since I have to turn the AC on when driving under summer heat. I will try your trick and see.
Wonder why AC on causes the issue. Is it electronic/sensor issue or fuel delivery issue?
Wonder why AC on causes the issue. Is it electronic/sensor issue or fuel delivery issue?
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S65
Are you sure the AC compressor is good?
A compressor on its way out can cause additional drag on the engine.
Throttle body, more so IAC valve? Usually, when an AC compressor kicks on, the ECU will also adjust the IAC valve to compensate for the additional drag induced by the compressor.
A compressor on its way out can cause additional drag on the engine.
Throttle body, more so IAC valve? Usually, when an AC compressor kicks on, the ECU will also adjust the IAC valve to compensate for the additional drag induced by the compressor.
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Mercedes
You need to do a few Italian tuneups, which basically just means running the car at high RPM on the freeway for 15 to 20 minutes in the 4000 to 5000 RPM range. Leave the transmission in its manual shifting setting so that it does not automatically upshift. You might want to run another bottle of sea foam through it too. If you’re still having the stumbling idle, after the Italian tuneup, then change the fuel filter.
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2006 Mercedes S430
I've tried the Italian Tuneup 2 times, and also tried pressing both Brake and Gas pedal up to 4000RPM at parking. The symptom still persists like before: engine hesitation occurs at intersection when AC is on, one time the engine died but I could crank it on and drove away. I did not change the Fuel filter since it might not be the culprit. I might have to replace it and see. I cleaned the MAF sensor but did not clean the Throttle Valve, wonder it might cause the issue!?!?!
I notice when the AC is on at times I still can drive normally after stopping at intersection, but most of the time the engine shakes and hesitation happened with AC on. I have to turn the AC off to accelerate from stopping. My thought is either the electrical surge or increase fuel delivery causes that. I will examine the AC belt to make sure it engages properly.
I notice when the AC is on at times I still can drive normally after stopping at intersection, but most of the time the engine shakes and hesitation happened with AC on. I have to turn the AC off to accelerate from stopping. My thought is either the electrical surge or increase fuel delivery causes that. I will examine the AC belt to make sure it engages properly.
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2006 Mercedes S430
I still have the problem with the car to stall when accelerate from stopping with AC is on. If the AC is off I don't have any problem when accelerate from Idle. When the car is moving with AC on the car runs fine with cold air pumping out of the vents. After a few weeks trying different ways with testing sensors to find the cause I still the same issue. Some other posts saying the compressor might be failing, I don't know whether it is the compressor issue or electrical problem.
I can say that driving with AC on is fine unless accelerate from idling, and when I stop the car with AC engaged the car will shake and stall; To me that is the point to think or diagnose: Extra loads (power/fuel/air?) cause the car to stall if the car is not on the move.
I can say that driving with AC on is fine unless accelerate from idling, and when I stop the car with AC engaged the car will shake and stall; To me that is the point to think or diagnose: Extra loads (power/fuel/air?) cause the car to stall if the car is not on the move.
