Roughly same ballpark is true for the E class cars that are loaded features. The S-Class is just a nicer, bigger, better car (the flagship) - hence the price difference.

 

Serge if you didn't have your 2007 S Class and had the option to pick one up today, knowing what you know the past 9 months of owning yours, would you still buy it? And I'm specifically referring to a 2007 even though it is now 2010.

 

BGTHEMOGUL,
did you start this thread as a joke?
How insecure are you?
How many assurances do you require before....asking the same question again (in different form)?

 

Why do you keep coming to the thread if it bothers you?

 

I would say still yes, it meets my criteria for buying cars, which is:

1. I like to stay in the region of $50k for a vehicle that is ~$100k-115k new (i.e. my S and my CL).
2. The S-Class has a 7-8 year life cycle for last 3-4 generations that I've owned the cars for, and I like to get an early car still under warranty for at least a year in the middle of the life cycle so that they have hit a good point in the depreciation curve. (Happens after 2-3 years from launch, then they get stuck in the same range for a bit). If you buy a W221 car now, it will still look new for another 5-6 years, even a few years after a new body comes out. Just have to do some updates on it - like rear lights.
3. Leverage the remaining warranty via good relationship w/ local dealer/service advisor to address any open issue under warranty. Find a list of bulletins relevant for the car and work with your advisor to leverage the bulletins to get some nice updates on your car. Not to be confused with recalls.
4. Do a set of minor mods to facelift the car, as last 4 gens of S and CL got facelifted in the middle of the lifecycle (i.e. 2010 S-class, 2003 CL, etc) - this consists of updating rear lights, aftermarket wheels and repair/repaint on the front/rear bumpers and any other panels that need work. Most of the time you can get a clean car at the auction that's a few years old, but will have rock damage from driving in the front. Mine had a ding on the right passanger rear door that was removed via PDR method (paintless dent repair).
5. Always opt for the AMG-styled cars - they look much newer for a longer period of time.

So for something like 60k total, I got a car that looks and feels like a barely used car that looks clean. I would have to spent almost 2x that for a 2010, and the only visible difference would be some of the higher end features like Drive-assist and front LED lighting.

I have to also say that I'm not a fan of buying early models, but the 221 s-class has superior quality vs the older 220 which had a bunch of issues... All of the MB tech rave about how good the 221 is. I would still say try to find the S that was manufactured late in '06 or in '07 itself - some of the early cars have issues and also lack some features like wiring/module for integrated phone, etc (which I hear can be added under warranty).

Hope this helps.

 

Serge,

Thank you for taking the time to write a detailed response. How do you know when looking over a vehicle if it is the 221 and not the 220? Is there a specific way of knowing?

Also, how easy and/or expensive is it to do the updates you mentioned (I.E. change the lights out) if you wanted it to appear like the newer model??? I will be putting 22" Forgiano wheels on the car.

I definitely will get the AMG package. I agree it gives the car a much sleeker sexier more modern look.

One more thing...what is the difference between the 4matic and the regular aside from it being 4 wheel drive? Is there any plus or negative I should know about? Does it matter it is a 4matic even if I don't need 4 wheel drive being I live in Florida?

 

Sure, no problem. The 221 is the current model 2006-2013 (although came to States in model year '07), the 220 was the old S-class - I was pointing out that the MB techs here tell me that the 221 had more testing prior to release and is more reliable car. The rear light upgrade is not cheap - you can get the lights at the dealer around $400-450 each, and they are much cheaper at parts.com. There are two ways to install them - hardwire the new lights to the original Rear SAM (signal activation/acquisition module), saves some money - but I wouldn't go for that type of hackery, the better/more expensive way is to replace the Rear SAM, code it in a 2010 vehicle and then install in your car. I had this done, ended up spending around $1500 total - but you could probably save a few hundred bucks if you look around. Updates the car quiet a bit. Forgiato makes some nice wheels, I would say find someone to roll your fenders - I haven't done this yet, but it's necessary if you go 22s, both front and rear.

I don't know too much about 4matic other than what you have mentioned, maybe someone can chime in that owns a 4-matic car.

Another update that's a must is the Telematics update - gives you a Video options for the Comand unit and the Birds-eye-view nav screens with life traffic feeds- you basically get the 2010 software for the Comand features. It's possible to get this done under warranty if you complain about Comand freezing, but I prefer just to pay a local tech and get it done for a small fee... Get the new Nav maps downloaded to the harddrive of the Comand unit at the same time.

 

The telematics upgrade and new maps is something that can be done at the dealership or I need to find someone on the side? What does that cost to get done?

Also, do you have before and after pictures of your tail lights?

 

One of the major difference on a 4-matic car is that you cannot use a staggered setup-if you're thinking of getting used set of wheels then it'll be tough since 99% of the ones I see up for sale used are staggered

 

Wow that is very good to know because I'm definitely doing staggered 22" wheels on the car but I'll be buying them new.

 

That's interesting - are the wheel hubs protruding out more? Not running staggered would look horrible, no? Some of the better wheel shops can get the wheel manufactures to ship them a "blank" center and they can machine the hub area, drill the lug pattern and machine the clearance around the caliper to get you the wider wheel lip look for the rear wheels.

 

S is the FAR superior vehicle, as reflected by a 100k list price rather than a 60k list price when new. Big misconception is that the "Cls" is a top of the line vehicle while in reality it's just a restyled E-class (not that there's anything wrong with the E, I actually really like them). If you want a top of the range coupe, get a CL which is from the S-class.

CLS has no space and is ugly too, imho...

-Rob

 

I am considering buying a Mercedes. I really like what I am hearing about the 2014 cls 63 s variant, but would like to hear some feedback about cls 63 or s 63, those models are what I am deciding about.

 

Well said brother...Well said

 

I know this post is 3 years old, but just saw your sig and that has gotta be the Ritz Carlton at Half Moon Bay. Stayed there for my honeymoon, they set us up with one of the balcony rooms. One of the most beautiful places I have ever been in my life

 

i know this is an old post but can anyone answer this question?