castro69

Airmatic Malfunction.
Hey. I got up this message a few days ago. Took a diagnostic test, and I get the message that there is a problem with a valve left front.
There is no leak, as it is not lower after 3 days without startup.
The compressor also works just fine. It pumps up fast behind, but after 3-4 seconds, it switches to the front, and then the error code comes up.
I've fixed a lot of cars, but not touched my Mercedes yet. (Oil change, of course)
Wondering if anyone knows the problem. Did not think it was seperate valves for each damper, but a common valve block.
Have any of you drawings or pictures on where the valve block is located ?
Is this a simple matter to reach and change?

Diesel Benz

The valve block is next to the compressor unit, to the front of the right front wheel.

konigstiger

Could be valve at top of strut (incorporates solenoid for level & height adjustment) in addition, check wiring/connections @ compressor and strut.

Diesel Benz

I was about to say about the same, based on what my memory says for the W211 model but then I had a look at the W221 wiring diagram and found no wiring for the solenoid valve (for level control).

It appears (to me) that the 221 is actually similar to the 220 where no solenoid valve exists at the strut itself. The only wiring is for the shocks adjustments (at the strut area) plus the level sensor.

The W220 description covers "a passive valve" for emergency purposes at the strut, not sure if one exists on the 221, I would assume so but I did not find the description.

I'd like to have a second opinion on this in order not to confuse the original poster too much.

castro69

Have now changed the valve block. But still get the AIRMATIC malfunction.
Left front air damper will not lift properly. It stops about. 3 cm lower than the rest.
Diagnostic says there are problems with the left valve. But it is in the valve block.
Does anyone know if there is a control module for this valve block.
Or some weak points in the network that provides electrical signal to the valve block.
Diagnostic equipment can not force lift up air damper.

marthyh

Front left and right have seperate height sensors ,maybe the sensor is the culprit(as well)?

castro69

Diagnostic tool says that the left damper is 30 mm lower. Something I can see.
So the sensor works.
I think the fault must lie between the control module to the valve block. But I have no idea where the control module is located and where the electrical cord is located.

Fahad.M

hey all,
it happened to me before but I changed it then now it's good, but my car been lately got lower after 24 hours than usual just after 3 days without startup ?? What do you think of that ?

cool_lagoon

castro69 you need not change the vlave block, just use a star to readjust all four wheel height, if you have a star computer i can give you the code. Otherwise your airmatic strut is about to go, it is a way to give you a heads up before the whole strut fails.

castro69

It's true that I did not need to replace the valve block. But it is also wrong that AIRMATIC strut is about to go.
It was not possible to control the valve block with the diagnosis. And thus impossible to set in the correct height of the 4 air strut.
As I wrote in a post earlier it had to be wrong with the communication between the main control unit and valve block. And it was correct. It was actually a crack in the electric wire between the valve block and control module.
4 "above the valve block, a wire was broken. On a flat surface without corners or movements. Absolutely amazing how poor quality this is.
I have a -67 Mustang, where most of the wires are still original without fracture.

cool_lagoon

castro69 you sure are something, first you post your problem then when you get help you play the know it all, good luck.
you said "It was not possible to control the valve block with the diagnosis. And thus impossible to set in the correct height of the 4 air strut." if you do not know how to use the diagnosis tool and input the correct value for height adjustment purposes, you will never be able to adjust the height, amongst the test sequence of a star is to test line pressure for leaks on all the lines connected from the pump to the valve block and interconnection of the 4 airmatic strut, height calibration / adjustment can only be done by a Star diagnostic tool.

castro69

You write: "castro69 you sure are something, first you post your problem then when you get help you play the know it all, good luck."
It's over two months since I asked the question. Do you really think I'm sitting with the computer and waiting for someone to respond?
I know how to use diagnostic tool. But it does not help when an electrical wire is off.
None of the answers I got were close to the problem. Nor yours.

marthyh

Thanks Castro for sharing your solution though !It might help someone in the future :-).

1sthemi

Hello,
Before I replaced my shock, for some reason my rear sat a tad lower than the front. I always had to push the rise button for the car to look leveled but even with it raised it still sat lower in the rear. Being on the freeway is even worst seeing how the car lowers at a certain speed.

Replaced one shock and pump recently and the car is still at the same height needing the rise button pressed to look ok.

Should I replaced the valve bloc or check the electric??

1sthemi

Anyone??

brenner

Hi, just ran across this post in looking for help for my HARD ride on my W220 2002 S model. It reminded me of a problem I had in 2006. My car would lower during the night. The compressor wasn't running. Changed Relay, fuse, still nothing. I bought a used compressor, plus new piping, air cleaner. I removed the compressor (small garage, my legs were outside, after about ½ hour, I crawled out and saw that my legs were covered by about 2-3 inches of snow). I put the new piping on (I think it's also the air drier) the new (used) compressor and when I put the wires back on, I saw that one of the 2 small wires (coming from the relay) was broken, only hanging on by the insulation! I think it made sporadic contact and letting the compressor run. So all of this work for nothing. For such an expensive car, they could have spent a few more bucks for better wires. It was like telephone wire. But it's funny how some people get insulted if you use your own brain to solve a problem, I liked your answer. I have a diesel, they can give you ulcers when things go wrong. Well good luck with your Benz….