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2009 S550 AMG sport pckg. 2014 Ford F-150 Lariat Supercrewcab
startekinfo.com
these are official instructions but you need a lift to remove the exhaust. The way I did mine was not really mercedes benz approved but got the job done in only an hour and a half so there's no instructions. it involved snaking the mounts out the top by moving the hoist over to one side while attached to the engine then using a breaker bar to just nudge the engine over a bit more and the mount popped right out and then new one went back in. I'd have to do a video to show how I did it
Last edited by Nickthegreek; Feb 4, 2015 at 12:24 PM.
2009 S550 AMG sport pckg. 2014 Ford F-150 Lariat Supercrewcab
My method is as follows:
1) Remove air intake box and air ducts
2) remove heat shields from support brackets
3) remove top bracket bolts with stubby wrench or equivalent
4) remove lower bolts with deep socket and wrench
5)attach engine hoist to front engine support loop
6) Lift engine until it is free floating not letting the drive axels hit the subframe
7) shove the engine hoist to one side so the engine tips over a bit giving you more room
8) use a coat hanger to catch the engine mount by the bottom mount hole and fish it up.
9) use a breaker bar to nudge the engine over a bit and the mount should pop out
10) repeat on other side
11) the driver side came out where the purge valve solenoid is located and the passenger side came out right behind the alternator. takes some snaking/fishing around. if it doesnt fit at all you need to flip the mount or move it around so that the smallest dimension will fit through the space
Nice detail! It appears doable for me and I appreciate knowing the timeframe and the extra tips. I will likely wait until warmer and dryer weather rather than fight the elements knowing what you went through. Thx.
I was reviewing this entire procedure, but the references for the 'special' wrenches/tools are ambiguous. Can any of you provide a bit more exacting information on the tools, or better yet provide a link on Amazon or something?
I was reviewing this entire procedure, but the references for the 'special' wrenches/tools are ambiguous. Can any of you provide a bit more exacting information on the tools, or better yet provide a link on Amazon or something?
Follow Nickthegreek's instructions and you will be fine. The WIS instructions tell you to remove all kinds of stuff (exhaust) that isn't necessary. I disconnected the steering coupler (looks like a U-Joint) and did NOT touch the steering wheel while disconnected (very important). Other than that, it was floor jack under oil pan and unbolting/re-bolting both mounts. Trans mount is even easier (jack it up lightly so there is no pressure on the carrier, unbolt all the bolts, swap mount, rebolt)
The only special tool you need is this offset wrench:
2009 S550 AMG sport pckg. 2014 Ford F-150 Lariat Supercrewcab
Originally Posted by ChesapeakeLimo
I was reviewing this entire procedure, but the references for the 'special' wrenches/tools are ambiguous. Can any of you provide a bit more exacting information on the tools, or better yet provide a link on Amazon or something?
If you cant get your hands on the mercedes tool, sears sells a gearwrench indexing ratchet wrench set #85488. My local sears had it so i bought it because i was too impatient to wait for the mercedes benz tool so i tried it out and it worked
If it helps any forum member out, you can have my wrench if you want to paypal me a few bucks for shipping.
It has been sitting in my garage (in the packaging and everything) and I'll probably never need it again.
I live in Canada, but am heading to the US on Dec 28th and would be happy to bring it with me and drop it off at USPS .. I think they still have the cheap flat rate Priority Mail envelopes right? Would be happy to drop it in one of those and send it if it will help out.
1. If you're thinking about doing this job, don't buy the Baum tool (top wrench) because it's too long and also needs to be filed down. The better tool is one of the torque adapters pictured below it.
2. Don't think about doing this job without disconnecting the battery.
3. Do the drivers side first, don't be afraid of disconnecting the steering linkage, just secure the steering wheel and you'll be fine.
4. This job can be done by lifting the engine from below without the Harbor Freight engine support. If you use the Harbor Freight engine support you still need to lift the engine with a jack from below.
5. Just follow the WIS instructions attached in the order listed.
1. If you're thinking about doing this job, don't buy the Baum tool (top wrench) because it's too long and also needs to be filed down. The better tool is one of the torque adapters pictured below it.
2. Don't think about doing this job without disconnecting the battery.
3. Do the drivers side first, don't be afraid of disconnecting the steering linkage, just secure the steering wheel and you'll be fine.
4. This job can be done by lifting the engine from below without the Harbor Freight engine support. If you use the Harbor Freight engine support you still need to lift the engine with a jack from below.
5. Just follow the WIS instructions attached in the order listed.
Can someone help with this question?
I want to do the engine and tranny mounts. When I go to FCP Euro to order the engine mounts it shows picture of mounts that have one vertical bolt on top but then just one horizontal bolt hole on the bottom. Other pictures, including in the PDF with the post from EasyPhil, it shows two vertical bolts in the bottom end.
What would be the correct part for me? My car is a 2013 S550, RWD.
EasyPhil, where would I buy that top bolt tool you recommend to have for the job?
I want to do the engine and tranny mounts. When I go to FCP Euro to order the engine mounts it shows picture of mounts that have one vertical bolt on top but then just one horizontal bolt hole on the bottom. Other pictures, including in the PDF with the post from EasyPhil, it shows two vertical bolts in the bottom end.
What would be the correct part for me? My car is a 2013 S550, RWD.
EasyPhil, where would I buy that top bolt tool you recommend to have for the job?
You would need to check EPC with your VIN to get the correct part number for the motor mounts and transmission mount. My car is a 4Matic.
The bottom tool can be purchased from Amazon for pretty much the same price as the Baum.
Has anyone with a 550 4matic done this by removing the exhaust to the manifolds instead of messing with the steering linkage?
I really7 dont want to mess with the steering. I also saw a video with a guy saying the best way is to remove the axles. That seems to make sense but again I would rather remove the front part of the exhaust. Mine is very very clean with minimal rust and looks like it would come off without a problem.
Has anyone with a 550 4matic done this by removing the exhaust to the manifolds instead of messing with the steering linkage?
I really7 dont want to mess with the steering. I also saw a video with a guy saying the best way is to remove the axles. That seems to make sense but again I would rather remove the front part of the exhaust. Mine is very very clean with minimal rust and looks like it would come off without a problem.
You don't do this job by removing the exhaust manifold or removing the axles. You do this job by following the WIS instructions, which do not involve removing the exhaust or the axles.
Not the manifold, that would be nuts! Just the pipe with the converters directly off of the manifold. As I said they are clean and appear that the bolts would come out without a problem. It looks like there would be plenty of room even with the manifolds still on the heads.
Not the manifold, that would be nuts! Just the pipe with the converters directly off of the manifold. As I said they are clean and appear that the bolts would come out without a problem. It looks like there would be plenty of room even with the manifolds still on the heads.
Unnecessary work, the mounts go in and out as described in the WIS instructions that I uploaded.
I have all the MB instructions already. The thing is those that you uploaded, did you read step 13, 17 & 18?
I've done the job, so yeah, of course I read it but I also know, since I've done the job, that those additional instructions are for removing the engine support not the engine mounts.
3) remove top bracket bolts with stubby wrench or equivalent
4) remove lower bolts with deep socket and wrench
5)attach engine hoist to front engine support loop
6) Lift engine until it is free floating not letting the drive axels hit the subframe
7) shove the engine hoist to one side so the engine tips over a bit giving you more room
8) use a coat hanger to catch the engine mount by the bottom mount hole and fish it up.
9) use a breaker bar to nudge the engine over a bit and the mount should pop out
10) repeat on other side
11) the driver side came out where the purge valve solenoid is located and the passenger side came out right behind the alternator. takes some snaking/fishing around. if it doesnt fit at all you need to flip the mount or move it around so that the smallest dimension will fit through the space
I plan on beginning this process in a day or so. 2011 S550 Xmatic. I own a cherry picker. I've just received the special wrench. 2 questions:
1. From reading the process, I interpret it to imply you don't need to do anything from beneath the car. Correct? I ask this because it seems one would want the car to be as low as possible to make it easiest to do all the work from the top. In other words...No need to jack up the car. (Although I do plan on jacking up and removing the bottom plastic shields in case I drop a bolt or tool. But I'll put the car back down to normal height before starting Step 1.)
2. I don't see any mention of disconnecting the transmission mount BEFORE hoisting up the engine. Correct? Do not disconnect the transmission mount?
oh and when you lift the engine up look at the axles and lift it until they are just barely going to touch the subframe. If you put alot of tension on them the engine wont move from side to side so easily. essentially that way it will be free floating
hey nick so you have 4matic and did it without removing the axles? I know it could be difficult being that the new mount would be bigger and may need to raise the motor up more.
hey nick so you have 4matic and did it without removing the axles? I know it could be difficult being that the new mount would be bigger and may need to raise the motor up more.
You don't have to remove the axles to change the motor mounts on a 4Matic you just have to lift the engine up. The driver side mount comes out the front after disconnecting the steering linkage and the passenger side comes out the back after disconnecting the alternator bracket..
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