Nickthegreek

Hi everyone. recently i was hearing a whining noise whenever I would first start my car and then it would go away quickly after about 30 seconds but would come and go randomly without rhyme or reason. It took me a few hours and star diagnosis to finally find out it was my airmatic pump whining. Im going to make a DIY on it if anyone is interested. Ive read countless stories on here about peoples' pumps just burning out from a relay but mine is an odd one. It works fine and no malfunctions but it sounds like it might **** to bed soon. Sounds like a bearing about to fail.

Nickthegreek

Ok done! so here's the tools needed:

-8mm socket
-10mm socket
-12mm crows foot wrench
-13mm socket
-assortment of extensions/u-joint
-4mm hex bit
-pliers or channel locks
-jack
-jack stands
-17mm socket
-air tools optional

Airmatic pump
bracket
hardware ( If you live in the northeast I'd highly advise getting the bracket/hardware. the old ones will be seized together. on the new one put anit-seize)

Nickthegreek

First jack up the car and put it on jackstands ( that should be self-explanatory)

next remove the passenger side wheel using a 17mm socket (if you have the "flower" lug bolts make sure you have a facom socket or you can strip the bolts!!).

next get under the car and remove 11 sheet metal screws on the bumper panel using an 8mm socket (see picture) and remove to expose the airmatic pump. It is located on the passenger side.

Nickthegreek

Picture of the panel

Nickthegreek

Next you will need to pull down the front passenger side wheel well a bit.

In order to do this you need to remove a 10mm plastic nut and 3 pop out rivets. I used a channel lock to remove the pin of the pop-out rivets and then the body of it came right out.

Nickthegreek

By pulling the wheel well down it exposes the bracket bolts. If you are lucky and the nuts that hold the pump on your bracket are not seized up or shear when you try to take them off like mine did then you can skip this.

Nickthegreek

Wheel well pulled down exposing the back of the bracket and the valve. I had dismounted the valve assembly from the bracket in this pic in order to expose the 2 front bolts holding the bracket on. Then there is a 3rd nut holding it on and then it should come right off but that'll be explained after removing the pump.

Nickthegreek

Next disconnect the relay. It is located in the fuse box right next to the master brake cylinder. In order to open it you need to remove 4 4mm hex bolts. The relay for the pump is in position B. Each fuse has a corresponding letter.

Nickthegreek

Next disconnect the two plugs that go into the pump. One of them is also connected to the bracket so you have to pull the plastic grommet out. The plugs are just your standard press and pull out type. No lock tab crap

Nickthegreek

Next disconnect the high pressure line using a 12mm crows foot wrench. It is going to be very easy (almost too easy) to take it off. This fitting does not need much to be tight. You will hear a hissing which is normal. Then When you pull out the line, you have to be careful. This pressure fitting uses what is called a ferrule to clamp onto the line and create an air tight seal. You do not want to twist and force it off the hose or it will just bite into the hose and marr it and you will need a new line. You have to pull back the plug to expose the ferrule and the pry the ferrule open with a screw driver a bit and it should come off. There is a space to pry on in the ferrule with the screwdriver

Nickthegreek

Next you can disconnect the air inlet hose. It is a non-pressurized hose and is clamped to the end. It is a clamp similar to coolant hose clamps. I used a pair of channel locks and got it off. If the clip is not facing you you can just remove the pump and take it off that way.

Nickthegreek

Ok next using an 8mm socket you remove the 3 nuts holding the pump on. If you are going to just replace the bracket then just skip to removing the bracket and take the whole assembly out. Otherwise remove the 3 nuts and proceed to the steps involving installing the new pump. Mine all sheared off even with penetrant. I wasn't going to try and use heat because there are many vital plastic lines near and I didn't want to melt them.

Nickthegreek

Remove the pump. Here is a comparison and part number for the new pump.

Nickthegreek

When you remove the nuts, a sleeve, a spring, and a washer will come falling out. This pump has a free floating design where it sits on spring loaded rubber bushings. I bought the new hardware kit for it but you'll prolly be just fine going with the original stuff. Here is a diagram the dealer gave me to figure out how to put it back together

Nickthegreek

Since I broke all the screws on my old bracket I also bought a new bracket to put on. In order to take out the old bracket, there are two 13mm bolts and a 13 mm nut that have to be removed from where the wheel well is that we exposed earlier. Spray the nut with penetrating oil. It is a self locking nut and the bolt may be very corroded and could shear on you then you're in big trouble. I would loosen it until it gave resistance, tighten it alittle and spray more penetrating oil and then back it off again and it came out fine. Then there are two bolts. The bolts are hidden behind the valve assembly on top of the bracket. In order to take the vavle assembly off there is a 10mm nut you must take off. Spray this with penetrating oil also or you will regret it and take it off just like the nut.

Nickthegreek

Also another note is on the new bracket this would be a great time to use my all time favorite, anti-seize on all the nuts and bolts. In the above pics you can see the anti-seize is that gray stuff smothered on the bolts and nut.

Nickthegreek

Ok so now we put the new bracket back in. I guess you can install the pump on the bracket before hand but I figured it was going to be awkward to get the assembly to fit in the space so I did the bracket first and then put the pump in. The bracket is just the reverse of removal. Again i'd highly suggest using anti-seize on the fasteners.

Next install the rubber bushings on the new pump.

Nickthegreek

I painted the hanger screws with anti-seize next. So now the new pump goes back into the bracket. The hardware goes on each hanger in a certain order. first the washer, then the bushing, the spring, then the sleeve with the built in washer facing down, then the nut. I started the first hanger, let the pump hang, and started the next until all three were started. Then tightened the nuts until some resistance was met and I could not rotate the washer at the end. it acts as a hanger for the bushing to float on.

Nickthegreek

Now with a 12mm crows foot wrench remove the brass fitting from the new pump. There will be a new ferrule in the port. Remove that also. Now slide on the brass plug first and then the ferrule. The ferrule must be placed on with the beveled edge in first and it will just slide right on otherwise it will not and if you try to force it on backwards it will ruin the line. There is a paint mark where you will push the plug back up to, then push the ferrule into the plug (see pics from removal)

Nickthegreek

Now put the line into the port on the the pump and thread it in.

**Update** you can also just loosen the plug on the new pump without taking it out and then just push the line in until it gets close to the paint mark instead of completely threading it out. Either way works.

You will feel little to no resistance so be very careful not to strip it. Once it hit the housing of the pump I just gave it a half a turn and that was it. Next attach the air inlet hose.

Then install the new relay and fasten the fuse box back up

Connect the plugs again.

Install the bumper panel again

put the wheel well back in place

install wheel again.

Shazam!!! Turn car on and allow it to prime and build pressure and you're done!!!!! B) Let me know if I left anything out or if you have any questions

Nickthegreek

**DISCLAIMER** This is for informational purposes only. I am not a professional mechanic. I claim no liability for this article

Grizz1

Very thorough DIY! Thanks Nick

Nickthegreek

No problem! This was actually pretty easy. It took me 4 hours only because of the bracket and trips back to the dealer. If the pump came right out id say a half hour.

marthyh

Hey Nick,thanks !! Great write-up !Will refer to this,in the future if need be.
Wiki-worthy I 'd say.

Nuru

Nick, great DIY write-up. You definitely saved a ton of bucks on this repair. BTW, how many miles are on your car?