S-Class (W221) 2007-2013: S 320 CDI, S 350, S 450, S 500, S 550, S 420 CDI, S 600

DIY front/rear brakes S550 4Matic

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Old Jan 15, 2016 | 01:56 AM
  #26  
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IF you are just swapping out pads only, you don't need to do that break in I assume.
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Old Jan 15, 2016 | 12:21 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Jason B
IF you are just swapping out pads only, you don't need to do that break in I assume.
In principle its always good to gradually up-the-temperature with new pads; its good practise often ignored,because of impatience causing squeeling and glazed surfaces on ze padz.
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Old Jan 15, 2016 | 07:54 PM
  #28  
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Nick,

Great write up as always. It's too bad I don't live near you. I'd be more than willing to pay you what the dealers quote me to do work on my car because I know you would always TAKE YOUR TIME to DO IT RIGHT.
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Old Jan 16, 2016 | 12:22 AM
  #29  
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2012 w221
nice write up.

I have a cpo 2012 which had new rotors and pads as part of cpo. Now with just 1000 miles the fronts have started to squeak which i believe is due to the oem pads getting glazed even with no hard breaking.

I am considering simply swapping out the front pads with some other brand.

How much easier will that be?
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Old Jan 16, 2016 | 08:51 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by T.H.Carrera
nice write up.

I have a cpo 2012 which had new rotors and pads as part of cpo. Now with just 1000 miles the fronts have started to squeak which i believe is due to the oem pads getting glazed even with no hard breaking.

I am considering simply swapping out the front pads with some other brand.

How much easier will that be?
A hell of alot Easier!!! Lol. But just remember to scuff the rotor surfaces to deglaze the rotors
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Old Jan 16, 2016 | 11:32 PM
  #31  
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The only thing I would add is that once you push the piston/s in the caliper and install new pads you should flush that brake line. This is because the dirtiest fluid is in the caliper and when you squeeze the Pistons to accommodate new thicker pads the goo goes up the brake line and into the abs unit. If you don't you run the risk of damaging the delicate electro mechanical valves in the abs unit. $$$$

Ideally you can flush the fluid at the end when all brake work is done as long as you don't push the brake pedal and especially don't drive around. If you do once you hit 15 mph or thereabout the abs unit will initialize and will deposit the dirt where you don't want it...

Last edited by alx; Feb 10, 2016 at 09:57 PM.
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Old Feb 10, 2016 | 10:29 AM
  #32  
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Just curious, why cant you remove the two big torx bolts from the front calipers? I have heard some guys have to do this to get the pins out and they have no problems reusing the calipers.
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Old Feb 10, 2016 | 11:12 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by MonroeHandyMan
Just curious, why cant you remove the two big torx bolts from the front calipers? I have heard some guys have to do this to get the pins out and they have no problems reusing the calipers.
The pins will come out with a properly positioned blow. Removing the torx bolts would be overkill. I normally clean the pins up and reuse them, but it the pins are truly trashed replace them and the spring so that you dont end up with irregular pad wear.

--Kyle
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Old Feb 10, 2016 | 02:41 PM
  #34  
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We just did the front brakes today. We got the pins out with a good shot. I also painted my front and rear calipers red today. Came out awesome and look great with my new rims. Will post some pic when I wash the car.
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Old Feb 10, 2016 | 04:33 PM
  #35  
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Pins come out like any standard Brembo caliper. The right tool for the right job.
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Old Sep 20, 2023 | 01:02 PM
  #36  
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What are the torque specs for the front caliper 21mm bolts, the rear caliper 18mm bolts, the 7mm hex on the rear caliper, and the lug bolts holding the wheel?
Sorry for asking, but I was not able to find this info.
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Old Sep 21, 2023 | 06:23 AM
  #37  
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Dang, this was such a good write up. I think this guy is gone from the forum...wish he was here to do more like this.
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