1. Car Forklifted Onto Delivery Truck Because Auction Had No Key
2. Finally Sees Car and Damage In Person on Delivery Truck
3. Videos of S-Class Forklifted Off Delivery Truck And Slid Into Garage
4. Additional Rear-End Damage Photos
5. Cost Breakdown For Vehicle and Parts as of 3/12/16
6. Key Arrives! First Start Up.
7. First Test Drive, Warning Lights Abound
8. Fixed Electrical Issues(?), Replaced Battery and Alternator
9. New Woodgrain Steering Wheel Installed
I finally bought it Fellas!
ABS light was on because you were forklifting and dragging the car around and the wheel speed sensors were confused. You can scan the ABS codes as well, but you need an actual STAR DAS system to get all the codes from the car. Glad to see it runs and drives anyway.
I'm relieved. anxiety has killed me. Kept checking this thread while sleeping but did not catch it.
Congrats!!!! On to the next challenge
should be smooth sailing from here. props for staying optimistic.
i suggest you get the car scanned to see of any codes stored, charge the batteries and get fluids changed.
nonetheless, be aware the S class is a high maintenance *****...always prepare for the worst since you don't have any warranty to cover repairs.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
That battery was depleted as the car sat a long time, it's possible it will be ok but if it's original, the deep cycling could easily kill it. The battery can be tested, basically if it's gone it will still charge but it discharges really quickly.
Last edited by MrRat; Mar 16, 2016 at 09:58 AM.
Congrats my friend, you are becoming a legend while on this epic journey
To get to it, remove the 2 screws holding the net tie downs on the trunk floor. Remove that bottom panel that those screws held down, then reach down to the bottom of the panel that lines up vertically with the rear seat and pull hard toward you to remove the panel. You will then see your accessory battery on the right, along with a host of other computers and electronics. Unbolt the tie down strap, remove the positive and negative terminals, then gently work the battery out of there. Getting it out will be the most difficult part as it's packed in there pretty tight. It is also vented to the outside of the car on the right side, so be sure that you save the plastic vent plug for the new battery. Be sure to take a picture of the battery before you remove it so you can see how everything lines up and how the connections are made.
If you go with a non-oem battery, make sure you remove the vent plug on the right side and test fit the vent from the car before working the battery in there. It may not fit, so you may have to take out the little sleeve inside the vent hole to make if fit properly. Putting the new battery in is obviously the reverse of taking the old one out. All in about a 20-30 minute job.
Last edited by DaveW68; Mar 16, 2016 at 10:37 AM.
About two minutes after I turned it on my MIL popped. I think its because of all the crap inside the catalytic converters made it pop.
My battery is low. My driver side speaker is blown. My rear right tire is at 15psi. 15726 miles since last oil change so it needs one.
Okay, so I have been a member of this forum for a pretty long time, and this may or may not be my first post
. I honestly can't remember. Either way, I've been subscribed to this thread, watching this go down like a failed rocket launch. But somehow, the car started. I didn't think it would. Everyone in my house was cheering you on like it was the first moon landing. Haha.
Thanks for the entertainment.
And here's a thumbs up to you for letting it roll off.
For god's sake, make sure the car comes out looking like new!
I'm going to fix it to the best of my perfectionism!
Last edited by mercedesbenzs55; Mar 16, 2016 at 03:42 PM.
This thread has soul, I'm going to keep the progress here.












