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Replacing voltage regulator on back of alternator

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Old 03-10-2016, 05:42 PM
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Replacing voltage regulator on back of alternator

Hi - The red battery light came on and my car was diagnosed with a bad voltage regulator. I've purchased a new one which mounts to the back of the alternator under a plastic cover.

Question: Can you access the rear of the alternator from under the car to replace the voltage regulator, or do I have to pull the alternator? Is the best way to pull the alternator from above or below?
Old 03-11-2016, 08:49 AM
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To not remove the alternator you then have to remove the oil filler tube to remove the VR cover--that's a *****--my suggestion is remove the alternator and change the regulator!!
Old 03-11-2016, 08:55 AM
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Thanks. So can be done in place, but not the best approach. Best way to remove alternator -from top of engine or from below?
Old 03-11-2016, 08:58 AM
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How many miles on your car? It might be better to just replace the entire alternator with a rebuilt one. The brushes on all alternators wear out over time, thus rendering them ineffective.
Old 03-11-2016, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Plutoe
To not remove the alternator you then have to remove the oil filler tube to remove the VR cover--that's a *****--my suggestion is remove the alternator and change the regulator!!
Is this true on 4matic? Filler tube is related to tear of engine on 4mstics, but something else may be in way.

Last edited by marcmayer; 03-11-2016 at 09:08 AM.
Old 03-11-2016, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by DaveW68
How many miles on your car? It might be better to just replace the entire alternator with a rebuilt one. The brushes on all alternators wear out over time, thus rendering them ineffective.
In the Bosch alternator the voltage regulator includes new brushes.
Old 03-11-2016, 09:58 AM
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the job is easy, but requires attention. you are better off removing the alternator and servicing it on a bench with plenty of space and light around.
Old 03-14-2016, 11:51 AM
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I pulled the alternator and replaced the voltage regulator. Most of the job was easily accomplished from the top, but 2 of the mounting bolts - alternator to engine - I could only get to from the bottom - so I had to remove front bottom cover. Alternator can only be pulled from top. To make room to remove it, I had to pull the electric radiator fan (wiring connector + 2 clips) and to make room to remove the fan, I had to remove the top coolant pipe (1 bolt, 2 clips, be prepared to catch spilled coolant) and the top cover (metal plate over radiator with hood latches attached - lots of 10mm bolts).

Last edited by marcmayer; 03-14-2016 at 01:06 PM.
Old 03-14-2016, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by marcmayer
I pulled the alternator and replaced the voltage regulator. Most of the job was easily accomplished from the top, but 2 of the mounting bolts - alternator to engine - I could only get to from the bottom - so I had to remove front bottom cover. Alternator can only be pulled from top. To make room to remove it, I had to pull the electric radiator fan (wiring connector + 2 clips) and to make room to remove the fan, I had to remove the top coolant pipe (1 bolt, 2 clips, be prepared to catch spilled coolant) and the top cover (metal plate over radiator with hood latches attached - lots of 10mm bolts).
Love seeing guys who aren't afraid to wrench on their S Class.
Old 03-16-2016, 02:08 PM
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FWIW - the Mercedes voltage regulator 0031546906 for the high output alternator included a Bosch voltage regulator F00M346081 and 7 screws (4 for regulator, 3 for cover). Local dealership asked $160 for part - not in stock. Online dealer sold it for $95 with same delivery date. Just found the Bosch part for sale at Summit Racing for $30 - don't know if it includes the screws. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bch-f00m346081
Old 03-19-2016, 06:06 PM
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This is where I'm at.

If the Alternator is not working properly. I will buy the voltage regulator. As its not draining batteries but isn't putting out the correct output.

Last edited by mercedesbenzs55; 03-19-2016 at 06:17 PM.
Old 03-19-2016, 06:28 PM
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Testing while on the car may be the only option.

I had mine tested at local auto parts shop (OReilly)for free on the car. Their diagnosis machine said voltage regulator bad / diodes good.

I then tried to get the alternator tested (off the car) and none of their systems could test it off the car. Tried multiple shops.
Old 03-19-2016, 10:35 PM
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Marc, is this all that is needed to redo the alternators voltage regulator?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bch-f00m346081
Old 03-19-2016, 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by mercedesbenzs55
Marc, is this all that is needed to redo the alternators voltage regulator?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bch-f00m346081
There is very little that can go wrong inside an alternator:

1. Bearings - if it spins freely/quietly not an issue;
2. Diodes - convert alternators AC output to DC;
3. Brushes - pick up voltage from spinning assembly; and
4. Voltage control

The Bosch part fixes 3 and 4. An on-car test should tell you if the problem is the diodes (which I don't think are available as a separate part).





The screws that hold the voltage regulator to the alternator are also carry electricity so they should be clean/rust free for the best possible contact. If the old ones are clean they should be fine to reuse.

Last edited by marcmayer; 03-19-2016 at 11:09 PM.
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Old 03-19-2016, 11:30 PM
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Note that there are 2 alternators available for our cars - a 180 amp and a 220 amp model with different voltage regulators. You can call a dealer with your VIN to make sure which one you have or do what I do and use epc.startekinfo.com. Its the official MB parts catalog same as the dealers use. You can subscribe for a year at a time for free (although they ask for a credit card to verify ID). Enter your VIN and you can get the correct part numbers for YOUR car.
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Old 03-19-2016, 11:34 PM
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Originally Posted by marcmayer
Note that there are 2 alternators available for our cars - a 180 amp and a 220 amp model with different voltage regulators. You can call a dealer with your VIN to make sure which one you have or do what I do and use epc.startekinfo.com. Its the official MB parts catalog same as the dealers use. You can subscribe for a year at a time for free (although they ask for a credit card to verify ID). Enter your VIN and you can get the correct part numbers for YOUR car.
I take it back - looks like they went from free to $75/year. Ouch
Old 03-19-2016, 11:58 PM
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Thanks marc! God, I love this forum!

My Amp is 220v. Is the parts kit universal for both 180 and 220v?

Looks like summit is on back order for this item.

Last edited by mercedesbenzs55; 03-20-2016 at 12:07 AM.
Old 03-20-2016, 12:11 AM
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Originally Posted by mercedesbenzs55
Thanks marc! God, I love this forum!

My Amp is 220v. Is the parts kit universal for both 180 and 220v?

Looks like summit is on back order for this item.
No - different regulator and parts I think. The parts I used are for the 220 amp model (not volts) like you have.
Old 03-20-2016, 12:19 AM
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Oops,I ment 22amp(it says 220 on the black cover in the rear of the alternator.)

Sorry, I don't know much about electrical systems.
Old 03-20-2016, 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by mercedesbenzs55
Sorry, I don't know much about electrical systems.
And this is why you need a trained professional to properly diagnose the issues with your car and let them handle the repairs.
Old 03-20-2016, 11:04 AM
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Ill let them diagnose, but I can handle the repairs.
Old 03-20-2016, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by mercedesbenzs55
Ill let them diagnose, but I can handle the repairs.
OK....step 1 complete: finally recognizing that you cannot diagnosis all of the problems with your car.

Step 2: TBD

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