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So for the last few days i have been getting this noise randomly at engine start. It sounds to me like chain slap but a few times it was so loud that i thought i spun a bearing....like a slow knock.
It ONLY happens when the engine is hot and has been standing for 1 or 2 hours. it does NOT happen when the engine is cold which is confusing since the oil should be in the pan and no longer up top.
I got it to do it a little while ago and it was not that loud this time but i attached a sound clip of it.
BOTUS...that was my first thought so the sound clip is AFTER i replaced all 3 idlers and the tensioner...the pump and alternator had no play and felt nice and tight so i doubt its them.
konigstiger....thank you for that clip....sounds pretty similar
I already ordered the tensioner kit from FCPEuro and will do it sometime in the next 2 weeks and then give an update. I am still confused as to why it wont do it in the morning when its cold and all the oil is gone from the top
Go buy a POS toyota if you aren't Man enough to have a Benz
I was getting a check engine light but only if I hit the gas and blast up to 85-100MPH, code showed the oil valve that controls timing advance on the exhaust cams. I had used a thicker oil that was also not MBZ approved; I switched the car to Mobil One 0W-40 Europrean car formula l and the car is happier now.
Last edited by tonylinc; May 24, 2020 at 04:47 PM.
Reason: Because
That's funny because I've owned Benzos since the year 2000, and every time I ever did a repair on a Benz about 16 different models that I've owned, I never had to do that repair again.
So after changing the chain tensioners with the new updated ones and installing the check valves the engine got a lot more quiet while running but the knocking noise was still there and got worse to the point where it was doing it cold and hot at every start.
I went to Mercedes Benz of South Orlando to ask them what it would cost to do the camshaft adjuster which i was sure at this point was bad. 21 hrs labor and close to $3000 in parts they quoted. I really had to bite my tongue not to burst out laughing.
Anyways......today i did the bad adjuster and it took me less than 3 hrs.
Knocking noise is gone.
Not having to pay MB that ridiculous amount for the repair......PRICELESS
Can you explain how you changed it without removing the valve cover? I might have a bad adjuster and would love to not pay the shop thousands to do it. Thanks!
my car does NOT have stop/start and the issue has NOTHING to do with that system even if you have it. It has to do with the long service intervals. 10k miles for oil is too much and that is why those adjusters fail.
perp95
you have to take the tensioner out and then you have JUST enough slack to get the chain off the adjusters
Did you set the engine to TDC or just marked where the teeth are sitting and matched it up?
also how did you stop the cams from spinning while undoing the T100?
I marked the chain and teeth. I used a impact to loosen the t100 first while the chain was still tight (yeah yeah yeah i know but its been good for 30+k so...whatever)
When you put the new adjuster in it MAY not slide onto the shaft because depending how bad the old one was it may be out by as much as 20 degrees. So slide the adjuster on and put the chain on and then turn the engine until the adjuster clicks in place.
Also be careful about the timing disc...it is only pressed onto the shaft and can rotate (ask me how i know) and screw up your perceived timing to the computer.
Thanks for the info, not going to lie I’m a bit nervous to try this myself but I was quoted $3000 to have one replaced by an Indy shop so it’s tempting to try
Thanks for the info, not going to lie I’m a bit nervous to try this myself but I was quoted $3000 to have one replaced by an Indy shop so it’s tempting to try
Just did my drivers side but couldn't do it from the front. Had to remove both covers. So I did both intake and exhaust gears along with their screws, tensioner, check valve. Then since I was in there, I did 4 coolant hoses, thermostat, oil cooler, oil filter housing gasket, both magnets and two sensors along with all the bolts. Coolant flush, oil change and I am sure I am forgetting more stuff. About $3500 only in parts all from Mercedes dealer with a 10% discount. Not an easy job!!!
Just did my drivers side but couldn't do it from the front. Had to remove both covers. So I did both intake and exhaust gears along with their screws, tensioner, check valve. Then since I was in there, I did 4 coolant hoses, thermostat, oil cooler, oil filter housing gasket, both magnets and two sensors along with all the bolts. Coolant flush, oil change and I am sure I am forgetting more stuff. About $3500 only in parts all from Mercedes dealer with a 10% discount. Not an easy job!!!
PS: Thanks @PillDrive for guiding me through it 👍
pretty sure mines the drivers side too. It’s not doable with just removing the front cover and undoing it?
pretty sure mines the drivers side too. It’s not doable with just removing the front cover and undoing it?
I couldn't do it. I have to do the tensioner and check valve on the passenger side, now that I should be able to do with removing just the front cover. But if you do it or have someone do it, just like Pill told me, swap whatever is in there because you do not want to go back in. I went crazy and changed everything but the very least you could do is the cooling lines that are made of plastic and crumble just by looking at them.
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