I have front end noise. The mechanic replace the sway bar mounts and put grease. Noise is still. Is because grease and should be glued instead?

One more thing, which one of lower arms is not aluminum?

Thanks

 

they were glued on early cars, under a mod to stop the noise.... they now sell the whole anti-roll bar with the bushes bonded on.
there are bushes out there on ebay to buy, but not from Mercedes....

by the way skirts sway and anti-roll bars reduce ROLL

 

Thanks for the reply. I bought bushings and he installed them. Noise did not disappear. He said may be the aluminum lower control arm. Another mechanic said it is the steel lower control arm. I will wait for few months and get them both replaced.

 

In addition, when I stop at trafic light the car start raising from front.

 

the track control arms (camber / side to side are steel painted black) a dealer stabbed the boot on mine to get a nice earner, they are crazy money from Merc. I fitted Febi Bilstein ones, they where rattling inside 3k miles on that retarded idea to mount on to the damper. I got an original arm secondhand of ebay fitted the boot on the original and they are back on the car with no play at 60k miles

the aluminium caster control arms (front to back) had the front bushes fall to bits at 40k miles, these bushes only can be bought from merc and fitted (but its a huge press in job)

the originals are made by lemforder… but whilst outside the dealership ABC ones are available, they deliberately kept the airmatic arms being out there to buy OEM at 1/3rd of dealership prices

ALL suspension arms should be tightened with the mid laden postion (weight on the wheels).... this way the bush is tightened mid way through its range of travel and they last.... aresholes that do up on a two poster ramp (and thus tighten at max range) cause the owner to trash the bushes quickly

Check the camber before you play.... these cars a budget crap, made to poverty build and they leave the factory with the geometry all wrong. The front track arms were designed to be adjustable with a special bolt and a funny set of washers. This is a bad way to fix. The bolt is nasty and weak (and expensive and unnecessary). The sub frame has a funny hole (the silly bolt fits a bit you don't want on the car) - as the adjustment to correct the **** build, is a one off one time only correction. Grind back the lug on the sub frame enabling the use of the original strong bolt but with the funny washes to lock in the setting. Clever dealers know to do it right. And the washers are available a separate part - or a 4 times the price bolt kit that is 25% weaker). You can do the castor adjustment with funny bolt idea, don't go there you will likely just get it muddled.

 

if ABC suspension (expensive complex option) these need regularly fluid and filter changes and leak.
if the stock airmatic suspension. First step is to check (aka replace) the three level sensors. They seize give funny readings and snap off beaching the car.... one left front, one right front, together they do the front height and vehicle side to side level.... one hidden at the back does the rear height together (its above the park brake so you can't see) as no one ever saw it, its the first to snap and the car is undrivable... you tend to get about with it seized for 3 or 4 years on smooth roads if you're light and the only user. But the flimsy designed to snap bracketry lets go when you load it up.

then of course the pipes leak, the struts leak, the compressor gives up etc.... at this stage the right course of action is to bury the car, but you'll just spent 4k a year keeping it going till one day the money ruins out and you notice your neighbour drives nice brand new lease car, has twice the money and his weekend free of car maint for last 5 years