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Chassis, I replaced all the fuse blocks and SAMS when I started the project ...... And-
Fixed the turn signals/ brake lights. By putting the old rear SAM back in place, the brake lights/ turn signals now work fine. Maybe the replacement SAM had a issue? Who knows, just glad it is found and fixed.
Filled up with non-ethanol this morning to dilute gas that may be a year plus old. Came home and started to smell gas.
Fuel filter, which is located under the back seat, was leaking fuel. I suppose as the day got hotter, the gas expanded, and has been leaking through a hairline crack all day, very slowly. Ordered a new fuel filter and have another project to add to the list.
Not happy about it- but likely a good idea to put in a new filter anyways. Filter runs about $140.
Senior Leigh has a video for this repair job on his youtube channel. The video is for a W212 E-Class but should be similar in principle as the W221 S-Class.
Part 1 of 2, the other video can be found on his channel.
Hit multiple rough patches. Thought I would be putting the interior back together, instead I am trying to understand two issues.
Little refresher, she was running good and I went to fill her up with gas and then a drive through car wash. After filling with gas, started to smell fuel in the car. Some checking showed the fuel filter, located under the rear left seat, had a crack in the top. Filling the tank really exposed this issue. I replaced the fuel filter, took ten days to arrive. After replacing the fuel filter, car was dying 30 seconds after startup. I have a good MB computer, and it was saying ground issues with the fuel filter The fuel filter in the car is electric and also has a fuel pressure regulator mounted to it.
Doing a ton of tracing, nothing I could figure out. Finally came across a module I had never heard of, or let alone seen. GAS TANK FUEL PUMP CONTROL UNIT COMPUTER MODULE. I searched for it physically, could not find it. Searched for it in forums, and in technical diagrams, still could not find it. On a MB forum, posted the challenge and someone gave me a near exact location.
Went to that location, and still not visible. Did some further searching in the area, and found it. Perfectly mounted in a place it can't been seen, touched, or traced. Pulled out the module and sure enough, it has corrosion on both the module and the connector. Tried a basic cleaning, but car is still dying at idle. Ordered a replacement on Ebay, $35.
Next issue is something feels like the front right tire is rubbing on the inside fender. Visual inspection shows the tire is well clear of the fender. This car has air shocks. Hooked up the MP system to diagnose the air shocks, multiple issues. I believe it is the compressor or the module that controls the compressor. I will replace the module tonight, and if error is still there will order in a replacement compressor.
Airmatic problem fixed. Using SDS, had four out of six airmatic tests fail. Replaced the airmatic control board, and now all tests pass. This is a pic of the part replaced, under the interior passenger front footwell.
Airmatic problem fixed. Using SDS, had four out of six airmatic tests fail. Replaced the airmatic control board, and now all tests pass. This is a pic of the part replaced, under the interior passenger front footwell.
Given the immersion in water, I suspect you'll be doing more of that sort of thing as time goes on. If you haven't already, a day or so spent just finding, unplugging, cleaning, and maybe using a bit of something like Deoxit might head some problems off before they occur.
This is fun stuff! But I'll admit, I am much happier watching you go through it than doing it myself, so thanks! Hopefully you skate away with an unharmed compressor. Your approach seems most logical, module failure more probable than compressor failure. Keep up the good work, we are watching!
You are a far, far better man than I to tackle this project. I liken it to submerging your home PC in the bathtub for a couple days, letting it dry out, then trying to fix it and make it work again. WOW!
Replaced the corroded connection fuel pump control module this morning, along with a couple squirts of deoxit. Car no longer dies at idle. Did not run diagnostics, but all indicators suggest replacing the module solved the fuel pump short to ground issue. Module with tax was under $30 on Ebay. Used parts on ebay for this model MB seem very available and often very reasonably priced.
Wish I had bit the bullet on deoxit early. Not sure if it is snake oil or the real deal...... but many recommend it for corroded connections.
Did not go on a test drive. Car feels like something very wrong in the right front tire area, like a binding. Maybe in my head.... but need to inspect before going on another run with the car. I am modestly hopeful I can drive this car to work tomorrow.
Great progress as always @MikeKerr7 ! The RF wheel sound seems easy enough to diagnose with some time in a large parking lot turning the steering wheel to full lock, left and right, at varying speeds with and without brakes applied. Plus maybe a couple of freeway on/off ramps to check higher speeds.
Binding suggest a halfshaft CV joint, wheel bearing, stuck caliper or bad ball joint or tie rod joint.
Great progress as always @MikeKerr7 ! The RF wheel sound seems easy enough to diagnose with some time in a large parking lot turning the steering wheel to full lock, left and right, at varying speeds with and without brakes applied. Plus maybe a couple of freeway on/off ramps to check higher speeds.
Binding suggest a halfshaft CV joint, wheel bearing, stuck caliper or bad ball joint or tie rod joint.
Chassis,
Thanks for the response. I did some checking my my MB Icarsoft (didn't have the time to pull out the SDS) and found a common theme.
- N47-5 (ESP module) can't talk to brake control module
- Right front speed sensor
- Left front speed sensor
- Implausible values from rpm sensors: Front axle
- CAN signal wheel speeds from control unit N47-5 (ESP control unit) implausible
- check component y36/6b1Airmatic pressure sensor)
- No CAN message received from control unit N121 (TLC control module)
- No CAN message from control unit weight sensing sensor
And now recall seeing the traction control light flash as I was trying to drive forward at very minimal speed. I sense the car is applying brakes randomly, especially to the front passenger wheel, thinking the car has lost traction.
Time to check the ABS brake module connections and the ESP control unit. The ESP control unit is pretty high up on the dash and I am surprised it is being pointed at as a issue- may just be it is not getting needed input from another module. The car did drive twice with none of these issues- so I sense their may be a module with connections that were allowing amps to pass- that are no longer allowing it.
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Last edited by MikeKerr7; Sep 19, 2021 at 12:39 PM.
Mikekerr9, you might consider replacing your speed sensors. Mine went out and immediately got esp and traction lights. If the car got wet these sensors could be bad. Ez fix and cheap parts.
Thanks for the response. I did some checking my my MB Icarsoft (didn't have the time to pull out the SDS) and found a common theme.
- N47-5 (ESP module) can't talk to brake control module
- Right front speed sensor
- Left front speed sensor
- Implausible values from rpm sensors: Front axle
- CAN signal wheel speeds from control unit N47-5 (ESP control unit) implausible
- check component y36/6b1Airmatic pressure sensor)
- No CAN message received from control unit N121 (TLC control module)
- No CAN message from control unit weight sensing sensor
And now recall seeing the traction control light flash as I was trying to drive forward at very minimal speed. I sense the car is applying brakes randomly, especially to the front passenger wheel, thinking the car has lost traction.
Time to check the ABS brake module connections and the ESP control unit. The ESP control unit is pretty high up on the dash and I am surprised it is being pointed at as a issue- may just be it is not getting needed input from another module. The car did drive twice with none of these issues- so I sense their may be a module with connections that were allowing amps to pass- that are no longer allowing it.
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Agree with looking at speed sensors. Also don’t rule out a wheel bearing if the vehicle was standing in water up to the axles, or higher.
Found out that if I push the car with the traction control error and grinding noise (brakes being applied by ABS I suspect), I get a parking brake error and then it lets me drive. Drove about two hours today. Turned her off once, and had to go through the same routine to get her to go again.
Here she is at the grocery store. She does run nice, and is much quicker than my 2005 S500....
Put fixing the ABS/ parking brake/ stabilization control on hold until next weekend.
Started to put the trunk area back together. Lots of electronics in the trunk area.
One high failure item on the w221 S-class is the audio amp. They cost $700+ used/ rebuilt. The general consensus is they failure do to a cooling fan the blows dirt into the unit, but can't easily leave. The amp is the car worked, but the cooling fan seemed to be on more than it should. Decided to take apart the amp and clean it out.
At first could not find any electrical cleaner, so used MAF leaner. Discovered the MAF cleaner does not remove a layer of dirt off circuit boards well. Searched and found a stray can of electrical contact cleaner. Put it all back together and all is well with the amp.
The picture of wet concrete with specs is actually the dirt residue from the amp. The brown looking spec is the dirt from the unit.
And yes, I agree with the wheel speed sensor. All sorts of lights came on when mine was faulty.
In my case the sensor was damaged also by a rusty (bearing?) ring.
The reason the car was a "flood vehicle" was clogged sunroof drains. As a result , the fabric covering on the sunroof shade was damaged and not salvageable. To replace the shade requires pulling the sunroof, something I am not wanting to do at this moment.
Decided to sand the sunroof shade, and see what it looks like painted. I like the outcome. I did not use a color that matched the headliner. Now that I know the outcome, I will repaint with a headliner color matched paint.
Liked the way the sunroof sunshade paint job came out, but didn't like the color. I used a rust-oleum oil based pre mixed color, almond.
Rust-oleum did not offer a custom color option, so went with a "sample" sized semi-gloss Behr, from Home Depot. Used a piece of plastic trim for Home Depot to scan for the color match. All said and done, $5.49 for the custom mixed color pint.
Like the outcome of this much better than the prior almond paint. Paint in the picture is still wet, should lighten up a tad after drying.
Looks like a decent way to fix a sunscreen when its OEM cloth cover is destroyed. Time will tell...
Wauw! it seems I have to learn how to declog / unclog sunroof drains! It should be part of a regular serive (A or B), but I can imagine it is something easlily overseen or skipped.
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