Front Struts




You need to replace the strut assembly for the fix. Not possible to replace the spring alone.
Last edited by Arrie; Jul 24, 2021 at 01:22 PM.
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Considering the warranty, should I go with FCP Euro or Rockauto. Price difference is $100 with rockauto being cheaper but I am unsure if rockauto offers lifetime replacement or is that Arnott that does this. I understand FCP Euro has lifetime replacement but looking at rockauto verbiage I am a little confused as if it’s rockauto with the lifetime warranty or Arnott according to the rockauto site.

Good work! I placed an order earlier today from rockauto... haven’t replaced the driver side l, only the passenger side, so I’m hoping the installation is about the same.




The air strut is mounted between the top of the wheel well and lower control arm. It does not have anything to do with alignment. Alignment is a function of the upper and lower control arms and unless you change any of these parts the alignment is not needed.
It is a “standard” practice to mention alignment is needed after strut change and perhaps it is a good thing to do if the suspension is built like it is in the W212 E-class, where the air strut is part of the suspension linkage, not just the spring but even on those cars I don’t think alignment is necessary as the strut is just a straight rod between two points and has the length controlled by the level sensor. I changed both front air struts on my W212 without doing any alignment and car drives just like it did before the job.
It does not hurt to do the alignment if it is done correctly but in my opinion is not necessary after the strut change especially on W221 where the air strut cannot change alignment. On W212 it could if the bolt holes of the lower end of strut were made in wrong places but this is very unlikely too.
Also when driving the car maintains its height with no problems and the compressor shuts on/off at its normal rate and time.




Also when driving the car maintains its height with no problems and the compressor shuts on/off at its normal rate and time.
Thanks. Also it is the front that lowers and not the rear. Could this possibly be a valve block leak and could anyone let me know if this is a diy job (tools and how long it should take)?
Also if anyone has the service report on how to replace and location please post that as well!


