W221 S550 Air Suspension Valve Block Replacement
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 3
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S500
W221 S550 Air Suspension Valve Block Replacement
Hello All,
"Long time listener, first time caller"....
I am thinking about to replace my valve block on my air suspension system.
I already pulled it out and hanging there with the hoses attached.
Is the replacement of the Valve Block just simple raise the car disconnect the block, reconnect the new and that's all?
Or do have to raise all wheels? is there any special steps?
Right now I am waiting for my new Compressor and Valve Block and the struts was holding pressure, but as I jacked the car up and didn't find any leak, I tried to lower it down, but the struts won't raise the car back up with the compressor running loud for minutes sounding like a grinder.
This is what happened.
Last year I had enough to hear my compressor being overly loud (still was operating the car, but did not see the car raise rapidly as I used to when I bought it), so I decided to replace the compressor.
I bought one from Partsgeek, and started to fail after about 18 months. So I decided to go with a better option and went to FCPEuro and bough an Arnott in this November. I installed it and worked awesome.
Car raised fast and fluid. After about 2 weeks started to get louder and louder and the Malfunction with arrow up light came on. I tried to replace Relay even though I put new relay in with the compressor installation, but nothing.
I ran test with my Carly Reader and came up code 5283 (Filling central reservoir too long)/5288 (Main Pressure Line leakage)
I checked the system pressure and all struts and reservoir was holding pressure. Checked it multiple times.
When I was driving it was standing around 125-130PSI. I parked the car and was sitting for about 12 hours and the pressure was on around 90-95 PSI. - Not sure if the loss of that much is alarming or not.....
I just sent in the Warranty replacement with FCPEuro and my new compressor is on the way. But i started to look into the Valve Block. I sprayed leak detector on the compressor but it is ok. I sprayed leak detector on the block hoses, I see very very small leak very small, almost cant even see only if you really getting close.
So I am thinking maybe the block keeps burning out my compressor over time? But why did the Arnott compressor burnt out soo quick?
"Long time listener, first time caller"....
I am thinking about to replace my valve block on my air suspension system.
I already pulled it out and hanging there with the hoses attached.
Is the replacement of the Valve Block just simple raise the car disconnect the block, reconnect the new and that's all?
Or do have to raise all wheels? is there any special steps?
Right now I am waiting for my new Compressor and Valve Block and the struts was holding pressure, but as I jacked the car up and didn't find any leak, I tried to lower it down, but the struts won't raise the car back up with the compressor running loud for minutes sounding like a grinder.
This is what happened.
Last year I had enough to hear my compressor being overly loud (still was operating the car, but did not see the car raise rapidly as I used to when I bought it), so I decided to replace the compressor.
I bought one from Partsgeek, and started to fail after about 18 months. So I decided to go with a better option and went to FCPEuro and bough an Arnott in this November. I installed it and worked awesome.
Car raised fast and fluid. After about 2 weeks started to get louder and louder and the Malfunction with arrow up light came on. I tried to replace Relay even though I put new relay in with the compressor installation, but nothing.
I ran test with my Carly Reader and came up code 5283 (Filling central reservoir too long)/5288 (Main Pressure Line leakage)
I checked the system pressure and all struts and reservoir was holding pressure. Checked it multiple times.
When I was driving it was standing around 125-130PSI. I parked the car and was sitting for about 12 hours and the pressure was on around 90-95 PSI. - Not sure if the loss of that much is alarming or not.....
I just sent in the Warranty replacement with FCPEuro and my new compressor is on the way. But i started to look into the Valve Block. I sprayed leak detector on the compressor but it is ok. I sprayed leak detector on the block hoses, I see very very small leak very small, almost cant even see only if you really getting close.
So I am thinking maybe the block keeps burning out my compressor over time? But why did the Arnott compressor burnt out soo quick?
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Mercedes S Class 550 4Matic
2009 S Class 4Matic, the compressor starting and stop properly, I've tested all the air hoses connections on the struts and block valve white soapy water and I didn't find any leaks.
When I press the button for the high level it's lifted up, when I press again it brings it down so no problem with lifting up and down.
The problem is that the dashboard shows ''Malfunction'',
The rear suspension gets too bumpy and Ridgid doesn't matter if is higher level or lower level. What I've found also after the measurement is the distance from the center of the rim to the edge of the fender on the driver side is lower by 1/2 inch, front, and rear, and also every morning when I start the car the compressor start as well and I can see the car going up a little bit which means it losing little bit air over the knight.
Sometimes I can hear the pressure release in the compressor area by the release valve when I close the driver door.
Here is what the scanner shows:
Left front sensor 2.9V
Left front level 12mm
Right front sensor 2.71V
Right front level 10mm
Rear axel level sensor 2.20
Rear axel level 24mm
Compressore pressure at sensor 6.18 bar
When is Uplevel 2.47 bar
Downlevel 5.08 bar.
Any idea of the issues? and what is the normal bar on the compressor test?
Your help would be much appreciated.
When I press the button for the high level it's lifted up, when I press again it brings it down so no problem with lifting up and down.
The problem is that the dashboard shows ''Malfunction'',
The rear suspension gets too bumpy and Ridgid doesn't matter if is higher level or lower level. What I've found also after the measurement is the distance from the center of the rim to the edge of the fender on the driver side is lower by 1/2 inch, front, and rear, and also every morning when I start the car the compressor start as well and I can see the car going up a little bit which means it losing little bit air over the knight.
Sometimes I can hear the pressure release in the compressor area by the release valve when I close the driver door.
Here is what the scanner shows:
Left front sensor 2.9V
Left front level 12mm
Right front sensor 2.71V
Right front level 10mm
Rear axel level sensor 2.20
Rear axel level 24mm
Compressore pressure at sensor 6.18 bar
When is Uplevel 2.47 bar
Downlevel 5.08 bar.
Any idea of the issues? and what is the normal bar on the compressor test?
Your help would be much appreciated.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 2,138
Likes: 870
04 E55 AMG (totaled), 07 S550 4Matic, 14 E63S
You need to scan the suspension module for codes. I think you are chasing the wrong thing. That really sounds like either an ADS issue or a sensor issue and by default it will put the shocks in the stiffest setting under malfunction conditions. That happened to me on my E55 and it was a front accelerometer. $100 and 5 minutes is all it took but the code was key - it told me exactly what was wrong. I used the iCarSoft MB-II. Nothing fancy.
