S-Class (W221) 2007-2013: S 320 CDI, S 350, S 450, S 500, S 550, S 420 CDI, S 600

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Old Jun 15, 2022 | 01:52 PM
  #26  
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S500
the SAMs are often the driver of battery drain - how have you got swapping them out?
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Old Jun 15, 2022 | 02:13 PM
  #27  
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S500
attached is about right - I spotted some differences in places - door modules and such I think



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File Type: xlsx
W221 fuses.xlsx (1.21 MB, 482 views)
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Old Jun 15, 2022 | 06:03 PM
  #28  
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‘16 Mercedes GLE450 amg,’15 Mercedes gla, coupe,’07 Mercedes w221,’12 Audi A
*update on the car as the faulty part was the alternator. It was determined by ninjabenz through various tests. Tomorrow it will be going To the mechanic as he ordered a new oem alternator. Thank you all for your input
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Old Jun 15, 2022 | 06:40 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by clb0099
*update on the car as the faulty part was the alternator. It was determined by ninjabenz through various tests. Tomorrow it will be going To the mechanic as he ordered a new oem alternator. Thank you all for your input
Great to hear. Please post an update after the new alternator is installed.
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Old Jun 15, 2022 | 06:45 PM
  #30  
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‘16 Mercedes GLE450 amg,’15 Mercedes gla, coupe,’07 Mercedes w221,’12 Audi A
I am afraid to lol. I took some ball breaking in this thread.
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Old Jun 16, 2022 | 07:33 PM
  #31  
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1983 Nissan Shltbox
Benzninja is the man! I still have to get ahold of him! I got a dedicated Dell and the multiplexer, I just have to get it all set up and call him.
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Old Jun 16, 2022 | 07:41 PM
  #32  
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‘16 Mercedes GLE450 amg,’15 Mercedes gla, coupe,’07 Mercedes w221,’12 Audi A

This is what help determine the faulty alternator along with other tests.
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Old Jun 16, 2022 | 07:52 PM
  #33  
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Looks dead! Probably the most critical electrical component of a car. Should be gtg after the new "Dynamo", as they say in Deutschland
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Old Jun 16, 2022 | 07:54 PM
  #34  
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‘16 Mercedes GLE450 amg,’15 Mercedes gla, coupe,’07 Mercedes w221,’12 Audi A
I am wondering if the I burnt out the starter .. cause now it makes absolutely no noise anymore when I turn the key. I am actually thinking of doing the alternator myself as the last time this car was tow they cracked the front bumper. The starter to me looks like hell to replace. The alternator on the other hand seems like a couple hours of work. What’s your thoughts? I already was the one who installed the power steering power and new reservoir on this car.

Last edited by clb0099; Jun 16, 2022 at 07:56 PM.
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Old Jun 16, 2022 | 09:50 PM
  #35  
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2017 GLE350 4MATIC
Time to start throwing parts at this thing. You need to get to a known state of function.

Batteries
Starter
Alternator
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Old Jun 16, 2022 | 10:12 PM
  #36  
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Batteries, cps all brand new. Starter less than 6 months old. Alternator is the only thing that I haven’t changed. Got oem starter brand new and alternator brand new just waiting for my mechanic to install them. I also verified that I can hear the fuel pump activate

Last edited by clb0099; Jun 16, 2022 at 10:30 PM.
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Old Jun 17, 2022 | 11:55 AM
  #37  
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2010 E550, 273 Engine: 2012 S550, 278 Engine
Originally Posted by clb0099
I am wondering if the I burnt out the starter .. cause now it makes absolutely no noise anymore when I turn the key. I am actually thinking of doing the alternator myself as the last time this car was tow they cracked the front bumper. The starter to me looks like hell to replace. The alternator on the other hand seems like a couple hours of work. What’s your thoughts? I already was the one who installed the power steering power and new reservoir on this car.
If you have charge in the battery and don't hear any noise at all from the starter then I think the problem is the starter solenoid (mounted on the starter) or the starting signal never reaches the solenoid.

Easy test: Get under car and measure voltage at the solenoid wire when someone else tries to start the car. If you see battery voltage but starter does not activate then it is the starter/solenoid issue. If you don't find voltage then the problem is with something else. I think there is a separate solenoid that triggers the start voltage to the starter solenoid but I'm not sure. Older cars have this directly from the key switch but as these are Keyless I think there must be a solenoid that gives certain time for the starter to run.

You can also test the starter by running a lead from battery positive terminal top the starter solenoid to make sure it is bad before going thru the changing job.

Starter change is easier than it looks. I have done it for my 2010 E550 that has the NA 5.5 L engine. I have also changed starter for my 2013 S550 with the twin turbo engine. This is a bit tighter but was able to do it.

On both cases REMOVE BOTH THE THICK STARTER CABLE AND THE SOLENOID WIRE FIRST. It is tight place to get wrenches to but it helps a lot with the job. And, of course, you remove battery negative terminal first.
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Old Jun 17, 2022 | 10:22 PM
  #38  
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update car was towed to my mechanic today. Lastnight prior to going to bed I decided to check one more time if the fuel pump activates when I turn the key to start the car. Well the pump does activate as I took the rear seat out and can clear hear the pump activate. As I stated before it’s been determined to be the faulty alternator but for peace of mind I have also told my mechanic to replace the starter. I am so so on driving this car to Florida.



Originally Posted by Arrie
If you have charge in the batter and don't hear any noise at all from the starter then I think the problem is the starter solenoid (mounted on the starter) or the starting signal never reaches the solenoid.

Easy test: Get under car and measure voltage at the solenoid wire when someone else tries to start the car. If you see battery voltage but starter does not activate then it is the starter/solenoid issue. If you don't find voltage then the problem is with something else. I think there is a separate solenoid that triggers the start voltage to the starter solenoid but I'm not sure. Older cars have this directly from the key switch but as these are Keyless I think there must be a solenoid that gives certain time for the starter to run.

You can also test the starter by running a lead from battery positive terminal top the starter solenoid to make sure it is bad before going thru the changing job.

Starter change is easier than it looks. I have done it for my 2010 E550 that has the NA 5.5 L engine. I have also changed starter for my 2013 S550 with the twin turbo engine. This is a bit tighter but was able to do it.

On both cases REMOVE BOTH THE THICK STARTER CABLE AND THE SOLENOID WIRE FIRST. It is tight place to get wrenches to but it helps a lot with the job. And, of course, you remove battery negative terminal first.
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Old Jun 18, 2022 | 03:07 AM
  #39  
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Alternator, starter, batteries, all new? Should be able to drive it to St. Petersburg Russia and back without a problem.
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Old Jun 18, 2022 | 07:00 AM
  #40  
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LOL.. car has some miles on it lol.. 175k I don’t know anymore.



Originally Posted by Senecat
Alternator, starter, batteries, all new? Should be able to drive it to St. Petersburg Russia and back without a problem.
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Old Jun 22, 2022 | 08:20 PM
  #41  
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Final Update !!!! Lol

Mechanic called me today and gave me the final update on the car. He said that when he banged on the starter with a hammer the car started which means the starter is failing. He also said that the alternator isn’t charging the batteries and just when you think that’s it the 2 year old autozone group v4 duralast starter battery has started to fail as well.
Good news though if there is any lol. The starter is under warranty as my mechanic installed it 8 months ago. The starter was an aftermarket one as he couldn’t get oem bosch one at the time with parts being so hard to get during the pandemic so this time around I decided to buy oem directly through Fcp euro. I also bought the alternator through FCP euro as they give a lifetime warranty on all their parts. The last part was the starter battery which I decided to go from the group v4 duralast battery to a group 65 battery. I read an article that the 2010 w221 went with to a bigger battery in the engine compartment and that the 2007-2008 cars could also fit a bigger battery. I went with SLI65AGM Duracell Ultra Platinum AGM 750CCA BCI Group 65 Car and Truck Battery. The v4 duralast battery from autozone is under warranty and have been told that I will get a full refund for a battery that is nearly 2 years old. So I am pleased that it all worked out. I have included the link for the upgrading of the starter battery from v4 group to group 65 battery. Thank you all for the help.


https://www.youcanic.com/post/2009-2...ry-replacement


*** the link above is misleading.. group 65 battery does not fit at all. Not even close. I ended up buying v4 diehard battery

Last edited by clb0099; Jun 23, 2022 at 07:46 PM.
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Old Jun 23, 2022 | 03:50 AM
  #42  
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Nice to see that . We also use Duracell in our UTV and quite satisfied with that
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Old Jun 23, 2022 | 07:30 PM
  #43  
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Alternator, starter, battery, good to go.
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Old Jun 30, 2022 | 08:03 PM
  #44  
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Hello all,

I promised an updated here it is. I picked up the car finally as I left it with my mechanic so that he could drive it for a few days to make sure that it had no issues. Well it passed with flying colors as far as the car starting up and also no battery issues. The starter was warrantied as well as the v4 group battery. All I paid for was for an alternator and labor for installing it which was $800 total. Now of course driving home I had an issue with the hood sensor. The hood was closed for sure but the instrument cluster said otherwise. I attached a picture for those want to see it. It seems that the hood sensor or the locking mechanisms for the hood are faulty. I ordered all the necessary parts to fix it along with new release cables. I had to depress the metal contact on the hood sensor to stop if from constantly alerting me that the hood was open even though it wasn’t by just using a zip tie. Hopefully no more surprises for me as I intend on driving the car to Florida on Saturday morning. Thank you all for the help and encouragement to get this car fixed.


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Old Jun 30, 2022 | 08:41 PM
  #45  
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Awesome! Can the hood latch/sensor not be adjusted to fix the dash indicator? New parts is cool too though, these cars are aging.

What part of Florida?
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Old Jun 30, 2022 | 11:41 PM
  #46  
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To be honest the parts were cheap enough to just buy brand new. 175k miles on those parts was good long enough lol. Headed to Disney my son graduated highschool and at the same time graduated college with an associate degree at the age of 18 so he deserves this trip. I figured it would be nice to drive down with the entire family.
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Old Jul 1, 2022 | 02:04 AM
  #47  
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Yep, the car will appreciate some new gear. Wow, congrats on the smart kid! You did it right! Have a great trip.
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Old Jul 1, 2022 | 09:21 AM
  #48  
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Senecat ,

thank you and you been awesome on this forum. Thank you again for the help.
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Old Jul 1, 2022 | 12:31 PM
  #49  
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Let us know how the trip went!
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Old Jul 1, 2022 | 02:21 PM
  #50  
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I did a 2700 mile Disney trip with zero issues though my car had less than half those miles. Normally I'm the guy with the high mileage cars; this is one of the lowest mileage cars I've ever purchased.

On my E55 the hood latch sensor sort of falls out of its spot and this causes a similar warning. I ordered a new sensor but it seems like the tolerances are not great because it still slipped out of the mounting location. Ended up shimming it tighter with a cut zip tie and haven't had an issue since. No idea if the W221 uses a similar sensor design - never looked at mine.
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