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Last edited by clb0099; Jun 16, 2022 at 07:56 PM.




Last edited by clb0099; Jun 16, 2022 at 10:30 PM.




Easy test: Get under car and measure voltage at the solenoid wire when someone else tries to start the car. If you see battery voltage but starter does not activate then it is the starter/solenoid issue. If you don't find voltage then the problem is with something else. I think there is a separate solenoid that triggers the start voltage to the starter solenoid but I'm not sure. Older cars have this directly from the key switch but as these are Keyless I think there must be a solenoid that gives certain time for the starter to run.
You can also test the starter by running a lead from battery positive terminal top the starter solenoid to make sure it is bad before going thru the changing job.
Starter change is easier than it looks. I have done it for my 2010 E550 that has the NA 5.5 L engine. I have also changed starter for my 2013 S550 with the twin turbo engine. This is a bit tighter but was able to do it.
On both cases REMOVE BOTH THE THICK STARTER CABLE AND THE SOLENOID WIRE FIRST. It is tight place to get wrenches to but it helps a lot with the job. And, of course, you remove battery negative terminal first.




Easy test: Get under car and measure voltage at the solenoid wire when someone else tries to start the car. If you see battery voltage but starter does not activate then it is the starter/solenoid issue. If you don't find voltage then the problem is with something else. I think there is a separate solenoid that triggers the start voltage to the starter solenoid but I'm not sure. Older cars have this directly from the key switch but as these are Keyless I think there must be a solenoid that gives certain time for the starter to run.
You can also test the starter by running a lead from battery positive terminal top the starter solenoid to make sure it is bad before going thru the changing job.
Starter change is easier than it looks. I have done it for my 2010 E550 that has the NA 5.5 L engine. I have also changed starter for my 2013 S550 with the twin turbo engine. This is a bit tighter but was able to do it.
On both cases REMOVE BOTH THE THICK STARTER CABLE AND THE SOLENOID WIRE FIRST. It is tight place to get wrenches to but it helps a lot with the job. And, of course, you remove battery negative terminal first.








Good news though if there is any lol. The starter is under warranty as my mechanic installed it 8 months ago. The starter was an aftermarket one as he couldn’t get oem bosch one at the time with parts being so hard to get during the pandemic so this time around I decided to buy oem directly through Fcp euro. I also bought the alternator through FCP euro as they give a lifetime warranty on all their parts. The last part was the starter battery which I decided to go from the group v4 duralast battery to a group 65 battery. I read an article that the 2010 w221 went with to a bigger battery in the engine compartment and that the 2007-2008 cars could also fit a bigger battery. I went with SLI65AGM Duracell Ultra Platinum AGM 750CCA BCI Group 65 Car and Truck Battery. The v4 duralast battery from autozone is under warranty and have been told that I will get a full refund for a battery that is nearly 2 years old. So I am pleased that it all worked out. I have included the link for the upgrading of the starter battery from v4 group to group 65 battery. Thank you all for the help.
https://www.youcanic.com/post/2009-2...ry-replacement
*** the link above is misleading.. group 65 battery does not fit at all. Not even close. I ended up buying v4 diehard battery
Last edited by clb0099; Jun 23, 2022 at 07:46 PM.




I promised an updated here it is. I picked up the car finally as I left it with my mechanic so that he could drive it for a few days to make sure that it had no issues. Well it passed with flying colors as far as the car starting up and also no battery issues. The starter was warrantied as well as the v4 group battery. All I paid for was for an alternator and labor for installing it which was $800 total. Now of course driving home I had an issue with the hood sensor. The hood was closed for sure but the instrument cluster said otherwise. I attached a picture for those want to see it. It seems that the hood sensor or the locking mechanisms for the hood are faulty. I ordered all the necessary parts to fix it along with new release cables. I had to depress the metal contact on the hood sensor to stop if from constantly alerting me that the hood was open even though it wasn’t by just using a zip tie. Hopefully no more surprises for me as I intend on driving the car to Florida on Saturday morning. Thank you all for the help and encouragement to get this car fixed.








On my E55 the hood latch sensor sort of falls out of its spot and this causes a similar warning. I ordered a new sensor but it seems like the tolerances are not great because it still slipped out of the mounting location. Ended up shimming it tighter with a cut zip tie and haven't had an issue since. No idea if the W221 uses a similar sensor design - never looked at mine.





