When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Also, I completely forgot I had these saved in my ebay Watchlist, but here are OEM Bilstein struts brand new here in the states if anyone needs in the future. I ordered a pair for the rear and will be doing those soon. So we'll be able to compare Arnott in the front to Bilstein in the rear on mine in the future
In case anyone is wondering I just had 4 new Arnott struts put on my 04 e500. Cost was $3250. Parts were about $2200 and labor about $1000. I hope they last!
when the rear sensor snapped - I drove home 1/2 a mile at 15 mph it was like the world had ended - the hideous damage I as a tech could feel it was doing to the vehicle was immeasurable (its about the same at jumping it off a bridge and getting 10 foot of air every 6 seconds)
I wish before wasting money on a compressor - I'd moved to real springs - as I have said before I grew up playing on RR and Jags and they rode and handled way better than these ever could - and they never had air anywhere near them. Nor did we ever have one fail so you couldn't drive it in the 8 years I was there - or indeed some old ones were 40 years old and only the wishbone bushes on jags needed any work done to the suspension
there's a huge clue in there - just two years back BMW eng were stating you can't get air suspension to ride or handle correctly and its why they didn't use it - obviously the accountants got in on that and now all their cars are infected with this costly unreliable rubbish
I agree, but dont forget those Jags and RR had 15 inch wheels with 65 or 70 size tire wall. I have a 96 XJ6
The only part I've not replaced on my front suspension is the actual ABC struts, which are original to my 2008 w/ 60,000 miles. In doing other suspension work, I noticed that both of my rubber sleeves have ruptured at the top of the boot, leaving gaps open at the top of the strut for any dirt or water to have free entry in. Can anyone tell me if this will actually introduce lethal debris into my ABC system, or is the system still sealed underneath the boot? I'm torn (no pun intended) between ignoring until they inevitably fail, or bothering to replace the rubber sleeves. I feel like if I both to replace the sleeves, I'd probably end of junking those soon enough, as the struts will surely fail in the short/medium term. Thanks in advance.
I agree, but dont forget those Jags and RR had 15 inch wheels with 65 or 70 size tire wall. I have a 96 XJ6
I did three factory courses at browns lane - one on the v12 and another on the old XK 6 pot, and swapped one of the first AJ6 lumps after realising the one I was working on had snapped a piston ring - forget might have been a pre-production one in an XJS and flagged they all need the v12 air filter as the one I did a first service on had eaten the air filter
you make a good point about tyres - my S drove much better on its original 17" rims with 55% of the width profile tyres - whilst modern stuff can be thrown at a mini roundabout at 60mph and it mostly makes good fist of trying to make it round - older cars flowed down the road with a ride and handling balance that's mostly been missing for the last 25 years - I regret I wasn't brave enough - I'd kept my omega for a year whilst driving the s class - when it came to throw it in a skip I nearly turned round and dropped of the S class off instead - the omega drove at least 500% better
2014 E350 Wagon, 2007 S600, 2009 SL550 with ABC removed, 2011 S400 with Hybrid removed
Originally Posted by nath_h
The only part I've not replaced on my front suspension is the actual ABC struts, which are original to my 2008 w/ 60,000 miles. In doing other suspension work, I noticed that both of my rubber sleeves have ruptured at the top of the boot, leaving gaps open at the top of the strut for any dirt or water to have free entry in. Can anyone tell me if this will actually introduce lethal debris into my ABC system, or is the system still sealed underneath the boot? I'm torn (no pun intended) between ignoring until they inevitably fail, or bothering to replace the rubber sleeves. I feel like if I both to replace the sleeves, I'd probably end of junking those soon enough, as the struts will surely fail in the short/medium term. Thanks in advance.
The system is still sealed under the boot, but the boot is there for a reason - an additional level of protection. So the strut will wear faster without the boot, specially if you are in a hostile/salty climate, but I don't think it will be much faster. So it's your call - I think majority of older cars have those torn anyway and most people don't seem to care and wait until the struts fail for other reasons.
Correction to my previous post...I've replaced front suspension components except my transverse control arms. I tried last weekend. The bolts are hard to get to, and I disassembled what was necessary. Then when everything should have been ready to come out, my ABC strut would not move downward--just stuck, sitting maybe an inch below where it was bolted in. The strut needs to come down to fully access/remove the transverse control arm bolts. Can anyone tell me what might be holding up the ABC strut? I could have tried force, but that did not seem wise on such a delicate item. WIS directions don't mention needing to depressurize like Airmatic. I followed all their directions. I'd like to try again this weekend, and finish the front end project.
Correction to my previous post...I've replaced front suspension components except my transverse control arms. I tried last weekend. The bolts are hard to get to, and I disassembled what was necessary. Then when everything should have been ready to come out, my ABC strut would not move downward--just stuck, sitting maybe an inch below where it was bolted in. The strut needs to come down to fully access/remove the transverse control arm bolts. Can anyone tell me what might be holding up the ABC strut? I could have tried force, but that did not seem wise on such a delicate item. WIS directions don't mention needing to depressurize like Airmatic. I followed all their directions. I'd like to try again this weekend, and finish the front end project.
I gave up for now. I got swallowed by a different project that went sideways, and need a break from my car. I still do not know what was holding up the struts, so am in the same boat. Maybe I'll wait until the struts fail, and do it then.
Here is the tool I used to separate the ball joint at the bottom of the Xmatic front strut from the front rearward lower control arm. No grinding of the tool necessary as some articulated re the smaller tool they used. Procured this tool as part of MA51 tool kit from Harbor Freight.
I like the way mine rides on 18s. And the damping is extraordinary. You can't upset the chassis.
What do the Arnotts go for?
You can get OEM Bilsteins on Rockauto for $800/ea (with lifetime warranty). For me Arnotts would have to be like $400 to even consider their reman nonsense. To be clear, the air bag part is fine. Typically they reuse the ADS valving which seems ludicrous.
You can get OEM Bilsteins on Rockauto for $800/ea (with lifetime warranty). For me Arnotts would have to be like $400 to even consider their reman nonsense. To be clear, the air bag part is fine. Typically they reuse the ADS valving which seems ludicrous.
I agree!! When time comes for me, I will go with the OEM Bilsteins and call it a day
Hey Guys, My left front air strut on our 2013 Base S550 failed while sitting in the garage. With struts so cheap on eBay I figured why not have a go myself. Just getting the wire retaining clip of the main connector off was a struggle. Following the Arnott video I carefully unhooked the wiring clips, cut the tie straps and with the Harbor Freight Separator, disconnected the upper ball joint and separated the upper control arm from the spindle assembly. I then removed the two set screws at the bottom of the strut, (one was really tight.)
So, with everything disconnected, when I pull down on the spindle, and attempt to lift the strut up and out of the lower ball joint I can’t get it to break free. It just doesn’t want to slide up and out. I’ve tried some limited levering and still can’t get it out. Should I try a fork type ball joint separator?
Any ideas before I call a flatbed? One local shop quoted me roughly $5000 for two front struts and a compressor. I’ve ordered a pair of front struts from Suncore for under $300. I’m sure I can get them installed if I could just get the strut out.
non 4 x 4 strut in to lower steel arm ? - it almost isn't connected it shouldn't be tight !
there is the stupid pretend fitting to loosen - then it should just rattle in the hole waiting for you to remove - u do have the car's weight supported ?
Hey Guys, My left front air strut on our 2013 Base S550 failed while sitting in the garage. With struts so cheap on eBay I figured why not have a go myself. Just getting the wire retaining clip of the main connector off was a struggle. Following the Arnott video I carefully unhooked the wiring clips, cut the tie straps and with the Harbor Freight Separator, disconnected the upper ball joint and separated the upper control arm from the spindle assembly. I then removed the two set screws at the bottom of the strut, (one was really tight.)
So, with everything disconnected, when I pull down on the spindle, and attempt to lift the strut up and out of the lower ball joint I can’t get it to break free. It just doesn’t want to slide up and out. I’ve tried some limited levering and still can’t get it out. Should I try a fork type ball joint separator?
Any ideas before I call a flatbed? One local shop quoted me roughly $5000 for two front struts and a compressor. I’ve ordered a pair of front struts from Suncore for under $300. I’m sure I can get them installed if I could just get the strut out.
I do not know about specifically removing the strut from the lower control arm, but last weekend I did have an epic struggle to remove the front lower control arm and tie rod from the knuckle. My point here is that what should be easy and simple sometimes isn't. Some of what I say here might be relevant to you getting the strut out.
Both of my jobs should have been easy, as the control arm had been replaced only about six years ago, and the tie rod two years ago. Last time the tie rod popped right out with no problem. I first went to remove the control arm, and found the ball joint fused into the wheel knuckle. Due to its position, I could not get a ball joint separator or puller in there, so I used a pickle fork. I hammered the pickle fork in...nothing, would not budge. I used PB blaster, a propane torch, still nothing. Then I started hammering. I broke my sledge hammer. Got a new sledge hammer. After struggling with this and repeated heating/hammering, it finally broke free after about an hour. Then I moved on to the tie rod, which I thought would be a 30 second job. Nope, same thing--fused in there, and could not put a separator or puller on it. Disbelieving, I went in and watched YouTube videos of people maddeningly just tapping on it with a rubber mallet a couple times and having it pop out. I hammered, used heat, hammered more, ultimately deforming the bolt. What I think did the trick which you might try is I hammered in the opposite direction I wanted it to move, which is around the time it finally broke free. Then the ball joint was so deformed it would not fit through the hole. I had to use an angle grinder to carefully cut off the top of the bolt.
I'm sure there is some separator that would have worked. If anyone knows what will actually fit in a RWD setup, please let me (and others) know for future work.
[QUOTE=BOTUS;8974343]non 4 x 4 strut in to lower steel arm ? - it almost isn't connected it shouldn't be tight !
there is the stupid pretend fitting to loosen - then it should just rattle in the hole waiting for you to remove - u do have the car's weight supported ?[/QUOTE
Yes that's what I saw in the Arnott video, a tug upward and it slides right out. Maybe because my lower control arms we replaced a few months ago, the mushroom stud coming out of the bottom ball joint was as tight as new.
No matter now though, a bit of levering with a slightly modified (ground wider) 9 dollar fork type ball joint separator from Harbor Freight, and the shock popped up and off the ball joint stud. Sometimes you just need the right tool!
The old strut is out of the car and the new struts arrive tomorrow.
Looking forward to putting the new one on but not so naive to expect a trouble free install. Then again it looks pretty straight forward.
nice - please report back your feelings on how the new ones behave
don't forget best to replace link rods on the level sensors
and having just swapped to new xenon's take a look under the right front arch liner - the bracket that holds the air pump is made upside down, so all the filth sits in and rots it - rather than runs off leaving it like new.....
Air Strut’s in, all back together, no codes, car leveled right up, no strange noises, tracks straight, drives like a dream.
The one place in town I trusted said they don’t do Mercedes AirMatic Strut replacement.
Another local import shop quoted 5 grand for two front struts.
I bought a new pair from Suncore for under $300. They look well made. I was unsure of the proper airline hook up procedure, so I called their 800 number prominently displayed on website and spoke to a helpful young man without waiting.
Interestingly I can detect no left to right difference in damping or ride quality new strut vs old. Even so I plan on changing out the front passenger side strut too in the next few days.
Wonder if rear struts typically last longer than fronts? The videos make rear strut R&R look a bit more involved.
Collapsed Strut Modified Ball Joint Separator Back In Service
nice - please report back your feelings on how the new ones behave
don't forget best to replace link rods on the level sensors
and having just swapped to new xenon's take a look under the right front arch liner - the bracket that holds the air pump is made upside down, so all the filth sits in and rots it - rather than runs off leaving it like new.....
Lol...I forgot to replace the link rod to my level sensor yesterday. I replaced the upper control arm, even took the strut out, and put the new one in. I took the car for a test drive and got an ABC warning light, with codes for all four level sensors being defective and the car went into ABC limp mode. It was late so I went to bed, but remembered overnight that I forgot to connect the level sensor. So if you have ABC and you get the same codes, this is likely what you forgot to do. And Botus, you were right about the strut just falling out of the lower control arm--not held in there with any pressure. I have not corrected the link rod yet this morning, but am fairly certain this will remedy the situation.
Correction--so, I had a spare nut after the above project, and thought I'd forgotten to connect a link rod...turns out the nut was for something else unrelated and the link rod was indeed connected. After replacing the upper control arms, one lower, a tie rod, and having the left front strut out for the job, I've got code several ABC codes. Initially, I had warnings that all level sensors were defective. Now, I have four codes related to startup/calibration (see attached). I spoke with BenzNinja, and after checking things out found one of my height measurements was way off on the left. He suggested I may have incorrectly reinstalled one of the height sensors. The car is currently sitting low on the right side. Attached is a photo of the left side--can anyone see what I did wrong? Visual/spatial is not my strong suit, but I can't find the fault.
Air Strut’s in, all back together, no codes, car leveled right up, no strange noises, tracks straight, drives like a dream... I bought a new pair from Suncore for under $300..
Nice work, Sir!
In my research on these, I also noticed the inexpensive, eBay struts. I am very interested in how these perform. Would love it if you dropped back in a few months/miles from now and report your experience. Also, could you post the ebay item number and/or link to the struts? I'd like to take a look at them. I almost went the same route and purchased Chinese eBay replacements, but went Arnott instead, which turned out to be a bad idea not even 1kmi later as posted above. I purchased OEM Bilstein's after but have yet to install them. I really am curious how the set you bought performs. Airbags aren't rocket science, and for a 10 year old car I would think aftermarket R&D has them pretty much nailed down and can produce a quality product at a much lower cost.
Your car is also in amazing condition. Still looks brand new! Gotta love that hard German paint!
In case anyone is wondering I just had 4 new Arnott struts put on my 04 e500. Cost was $3250. Parts were about $2200 and labor about $1000. I hope they last!
"In my research on these, I also noticed the inexpensive, eBay struts. I am very interested in how these perform. Would love it if you dropped back in a few months/miles from now and report your experience. Also, could you post the ebay item number and/or link to the struts? I'd like to take a look at them."
I'll put a reminder in my calendar to follow up in three months and report back.
Regarding a link, it was Suncore Industries selling their own branded Struts directly on eBay. https://suncoreindustries.com/
Curiously, S550 Base Front Struts are now showing out of stock.
Suncore has a useful website and sells air suspension components as well as conversion kits for several car companies including Tesla, GM, Jeep, and Ram.
for an AirMatic W-220, has excellent detail beginning about the 8 minute mark on the easy/correct way to disconnect the wire sensor plug held in by the difficult to deal with wire clip. This tip and removing the nut on the link rod to swing it out of the way made unplugging and re-plugging the sensor harness easy.
I didn't change out the link rods as they seemed OK.
The one area where I'm still unclear is the air line hook up. On one side, after talking to a tech from Suncore, I clipped an 1/8" off the line, pried the split ferrule open slightly, slid it one the airline and used the new nut.
One the other side I just reused the old fitting. So far both methods appear to be holding. The Arnott video where they just force the airline into the new fitting didn't work for my Suncore struts.
03-10-2023, 09:21 AM
