Arrie

Unfortunately I had to make room in my old phone and deleted this picture with bunch of other pictures. I had pictures of unsoldered and soldered CGW.

I can take pictures of the new unsoldered unit after I return home late this week.

clb0099

Question what was your issues that made you change the gateway?



QUOTE=Arrie;9005092]Unfortunately I had to make room in my old phone and deleted this picture with bunch of other pictures. I had pictures of unsoldered and soldered CGW.

I can take pictures of the new unsoldered unit after I return home late this week.[/QUOTE]

Arrie

[/QUOTE]

I had all sort of errors when scanning the car. Also popped up in the cluster. I noticed that it changed after disconnecting/connecting the module, which the made me think about unsoldered pins that I learned about in some other threads.

Module is easy to open and the pins are right in open. It looks like just slight pull on a pin could make it loose connection to the board.

clb0099

So the car has been parked all day since lastnight on a battery tender which is only attached to the rear battery. The “starter battery” voltage is 12.8 when the car is off. The rear main battery 12.8 when the car is off. When I first came home today I turned the key and the car fired right up not issues. I turned it off and waited a few minutes and tried to start it again. Which is absolutely started right up .. I went into the house and came back out hour later and tried to start it and nothing the car would not start. Connected a jump pack to the starter battery and the car started right up. Look at the voltage of both batteries while the car was idling and the starter battery was 12.9 & rear main battery voltage is as 13.9… so I am going to say that the starter crank power is an issue. Would I been save to say that cause I can start a couple times more after I disconnected the jump pack from the starter battery but only a limited amount of times before it doesn’t want to start. There is only 2 conclusions I can come up with. One the starter battery is faulty and the other is when ever it really hot out the car won’t start which makes me think it’s the ecm .. I am replacing both parts as the battery is under warranty and the ecm is an item that is going to go soon being that the car is 17 years old. Anyone think I am on the right path? lol

Arrie

Replace the starter first. I had starter problem with both my 2010 E550 and 2013 S550.

When starter goes bad it can rob voltage/power so bad it does not leave enough for the other modules to get the engine fired up. It cranks fine but does not light up.

Learned this a hard way with my E550 when I started experiencing long cranks. It started but sometimes took even three tries. Dealer said it is the battery that was about 6 years old so I had it replaced at the dealer for $400. First looked like that was the issue but after about a month problem came back. Now went and got another battery from AutoZone for half the price and the same thing happened. After about a month the long cranks returned.

At his point I remembered reading about the starter issues and went and got a starter from AutoZone and after putting that in the car the problem has not returned. This was I think six or so years ago now and the same AutoZone starter is doing fine.

My thinking on this is that with the fully charged battery car starts fine but as these cars have the "smart" charging system the battery charge slowly goes down and suddenly reaches a point that will not let car start with the failing starter. Yours kind of sounds like it as with fully charged batteries it first starts up.

If the starter has not been replaced on your car yet it is time to do it.

clb0099

Starter was replaced at 175,000 and the car has 195,000 now..

Arrie

Should not be the starter then but could still be…

Arrie

My memory did not serve me well. I forgot that I already soldered the pins also on the new ZGW module, pics below.

You can see the "oil" from my solder on the board both sides. These pins connect to the harness of the module.

clb0099

I am pretty handy but I don’t think I could do that. What did you use to do this? I bought a new gateway ..

Arrie

I bought a good solder from Amazon.

Don't go soldering it before you install the new module and have it coded with Ninja. If everything works you will be fine. I soldered mine after new module also had issues and I think for the same reason.

After you have the new one working you can solder the old one for a good spare if this unsoldered pins in the problem. You can then swap the old one in if needed as it will maintain the coding it was made with. This is what I did.

Below soldering kit I used.

clb0099

awesome thank you, my issue unfortunately is the ecu/ecm is shot. I can’t be terribly mad as it lasted 195k miles and it’s in a **** spot on top of the engine. I actually bought another ecm so let’s see when I get it cause ninjabenz will code it to my vin# so I can drop this car off to get repainted.

BOTUS

as an aside I got a later CGW (later HW later SW) turns out what controls which toys / options you can get is built in to the code of the CGW

first thing it wanted was to flash backwards to the old software I already had in my current perfectly healthy CGW
of course what use is that - so BN and I spent forever tackling the later SW trying to get the car happy - over far too much time we got the car to run OK on the later SW but TPMS still threw teddies sat on the drive

after trying a bit more on my own double checking many nuances of coding I went for run hoping TPMS would wake the sensors and be happy - NO, even though same option codes seems to be used they will not operate - not the end of world but offends me - then I went for a drive and that's when the fun starts

up pops parking sensor interference beep and dash message - but I was on my own and nothing could have caused it - two and two click round - diagnostics doesn't help...

SW ending 1427 that provides coding for LOTS more toys is not meant for old cars with radar parking sensors !!!!
these high end older cars must run SW ending 1327 or older - somehow my cars radar cruise was still OK to work....
thinking and looking at error codes its the rear parking radars that are NOT enabled under SW 1427 and there is no way to do it and these later cars never had them, these cars had moved on to ultrasonic parking sensors front and rear

.
I don't want it enabled - but for fun I had wanted to see if auto high beam could be enabled - its in the cluster - but only the CGW SW 1427 shows it as a permitted option code - I forget what else (it was quite a lot) but stuff like brake drag steering assist and other interesting stuff comes up on the later software...


.

clb0099

Ordered a new ecu and waiting for it to arrive and then I will have ninjabenz code it. A side note is that the car will start in the morning and after that the car won’t start for hours later. When I take out the ecu of the car after the car only idles for a few mins the ecu is extremely hot to the touch. I came across a post on another forum that suggested putting Aspen Aerogel SPACELOFT Hydrophobic Insulation Mat under the ecu . Apparently this will reduce the amount of heat that the ecu is taking on from the engine. The fact is that my car is nearly 18 years old so this isn’t the end of the world. It also has nearly 200k miles so it’s not a repair that is out of the ordinary at this mileage.

clb0099

Hello,

I am trying to figure out what’s the correct part # for the air line fitting connector at the bottom of this tank. Is the air line going into the fitting 6mm or 8mm? 221-328-00-65? The part I need is circled in blue. Anyone has the part #?

BOTUS

on the seats they don't use normal sizes that Festo use ... https://www.festo.com/us/en/c/products-id_pim1/

6mm and 8mm is normal for grown up pneumatics - the seats seem to be 7mm I guess to stop you using good quality parts... the air lines on the suspension I guess is 5mm ?

clb0099

fyi 10mm is the size for the valve on the bottom of the pressure tank.