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Hi!
This seem like something that would be common, but I may be using the wrong search strings because I wasn't able to find a post where someone has this problem. I just wanna know the best way to DIY this. Online research suggests things like glues, double sided tapes, etc. Is there something specific for us? Currently leaning towards double-sided tape.
refit the bit hanging off in the pic ?
fit whole new seal ?
most modern cars (last 20 years) have very durable seals that fit in a channel - and they should still be very supple, get some silicone spray lube up the seal and the channel - and without ever stretching it lay about where it sits, and just wiggle it back in the channel - the silicone will allow it to slip into place and you shouldn't need tools
when in correctly it should be a robust enough fit to flex back and forth so you can see its in correctly on both sides of the channel
if baggy you need to go back and redo the bit you did encouraging it to compress in length a bit
some cars can be a bugger, but I've not had a bad one since the recall to do the RR Sliver Spirit door seal upgrade mod - that was utter hell - but that was circa 1981
It fits on the channel like Botus said. I can be very difficult go get back on and seated...look very carefully at the part that is still on the channel. The end of it is attached with some adhesive silicon. I just did this on my car when I replaced the seal. BTW, you too can buy your own seal from MB for $6100.
The correct partnumber for a W221 up to early 2009 should be
A2217310780
which costs ~ $200
Yah, I've got a CL550, so the $6000 part was for me. I bought my part for $200 used from Germany. I will say though that once new old stock inventory gets to very low levels, MB jacks up the price to hostage negotiation levels, and a $6000 seal is likely coming for your W221. I bought a window rail seal for my CL a couple years back for $167. I think current price is $7000.
Mine has started to fall off every time I open the rear door, I just put a SMALL amount of super glue in the place where the rubber locks into the metal and it's fine now. Don't know why this happens, but its still water tight.
Mine has started to fall off every time I open the rear door, I just put a SMALL amount of super glue in the place where the rubber locks into the metal and it's fine now. Don't know why this happens, but its still water tight.
Originally Posted by nath_h
It fits on the channel like Botus said. I can be very difficult go get back on and seated...look very carefully at the part that is still on the channel. The end of it is attached with some adhesive silicon. I just did this on my car when I replaced the seal. BTW, you too can buy your own seal from MB for $6100.
refit the bit hanging off in the pic ?
fit whole new seal ?
most modern cars (last 20 years) have very durable seals that fit in a channel - and they should still be very supple, get some silicone spray lube up the seal and the channel - and without ever stretching it lay about where it sits, and just wiggle it back in the channel - the silicone will allow it to slip into place and you shouldn't need tools
when in correctly it should be a robust enough fit to flex back and forth so you can see its in correctly on both sides of the channel
if baggy you need to go back and redo the bit you did encouraging it to compress in length a bit
some cars can be a bugger, but I've not had a bad one since the recall to do the RR Sliver Spirit door seal upgrade mod - that was utter hell - but that was circa 1981
Thank for all the feedback. I don't want to replace the whole thing, so I'll just get some glue and use a tiny amount right at the end after fitting it back into the channel.
Does that seem right? I assume the glue and silicone both work as adhesives in this case.
2007 S600, 2007 Chrysler 300 SRT8, 2000 C5 Corvette, 2017 Mustang GT, 2023 300C, and a 2019 Lincoln
Wow!! Maybe I should rethink my plans to keep my 2007 S600 and just part the silly thing out. Nah. I love it too much, but it is getting time to buy up old stock OEM parts.
Wow!! Maybe I should rethink my plans to keep my 2007 S600 and just part the silly thing out. Nah. I love it too much, but it is getting time to buy up old stock OEM parts.
Yah, the $7000 is not a one-off, or an error placeholder. My car is my hobby, and I spend a lot of time on it, looking at parts, etc. I've come across quite a few outrageous examples of MB abusing its customers who drive legacy cars. I have bought a bunch of parts when the price is semi-reasonable, and I know the stock is down into the single digits (I have a good relationship with my MB parts person, and she usually tells me how many are left of a particular item). I've bought stuff like seals, interior parts...specialty stuff unique to the car that will not be produced by anyone except MB, who will never make these parts again. For more ordinary parts, I've had great luck at Rock Auto on their clearance page, picking up quality parts (not junk no name stuff) at up to 90% off. Example--I got a new set of brake calipers and hoses for less than $300. BTW, my MB parts person told me six months back or so that MB did a major price increase across the board on all sorts of parts.
seals falling off and wind noise stem from a lack of car care - clean the car properly with the doors open and get all the crud from around the whole door close areas, polish the painted areas, and when dry use silicone lube to keep the seal happy and sitting correctly - it won't let ice stick in the winter (which is probably what caused it to rip off in the first place) and it keeps wind noise to a minimum as the seal isn't dragged out of place - it will just slide to the position the designers / engineers intended - giving it a chance to work
get some wd40 on the door catch, check strap and door hinges as well - and you'll find the doors will open and close far more easily - whilst making a far nicer noise
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