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24 bit hi-res sound over Apple is supported via Bluetooth at a compressed rate using AptX HD at 576kbps
a decent std on Android since version 14, is LDAC a codec that allows you to stream high-resolution audio up to 32-bit/96kHz over Bluetooth at up to 990kbps
I should have mentioned these bits for the others to better understand the gains you were after
MP3 is usually most of the music missing at some horrific 256kbps (but you can push it to 320kbps)
Cd WAV files 16-bit 44.1kHz with a bit rate of 1400kbps
SBC codec (standard Bluetooth) only achieves a maximum data rate of 328kbps,
LDAC drops back bandwidth in three stages based on the strength of the bluetooth connection, down from a best of 24bit 990kbps
AptX lossless format of 2021, which promised lossless CD-quality (16-bit/44.1kHz) audio over Bluetooth at a rate of "beyond 1Mbps will automatically scale down as low as 140kbps with a weak connection
Nah, I like the scratchy, reminds me of the good old days. Like for the same reason I like vinyl. I made a ton of FLAC files back in the day straight from the turntable. Fuzzy interrupts and scratches all included.
Same reason I prefer 1080p 60Hz at most. I don't need to see the weather girl's nose hairs at 8k with god-awful, sea-sickening, soap opera 120Hz refresh. I'm just a basic analog human.
Not at all arguing DSP-tuned car audio is the cat's meow though.
I think some humans come with high def vision (and maybe sound)
I'm gobsmacked 9 out of 10 houses I going in, I said oh no, you're on blurry vision - and switch their TV to the high def version of the same broadcast - and they always tell me there isn't a difference !!! yet one is a mush of blur and nothingness - and one is almost fit to view
not sure how Never The Same Colour works - but Phase Alternate Lline (aka PAL) used in most of europe - squirts a line misses one, squirts a line and then in between they squirt the other missing row then miss a line etc aka 1080i. (i for interlaced) Once electronics grew up in came 1080P (P for Progressive) which squirts each row one after the other, updating the whole screen each time 60 times a second in 1080P 60hz - and again the difference is easily seen (if you came with HD vision)
As for 4k or more watching sports the ball isn't a juddery mess meaning you can't tell if it landed in or out, and the crowd has real people and moves like a human - making it far more realistic - If I'm not mistaken you guys recently ratified 4k broadcast tuners which come built in to the latest TVs
I've been following this thread and I thought you guys might want to see how I approached this upgrade using the 'Mike' Audison DSP.
DSP was mounted in the rear fender pocket by the stock amp.
I cut the wires after the stock amp to the speakers, inserted the DSP speaker wiring, and upgraded some speakers in the doors.
I can reverse everything if needed. It does sound better, and completely tunable. I used both bass outputs to the stock sub.
Don't remember much about the details...right after this install I retired, traveled for 2 years in an RV, and the S550 went into storage.
The S550 is still sounding great, and we drive it daily while on summer travels.
Rewire of speaker output Cutting in DSP on the speaker wires DSP mounted next to stock amp Yellowstone elk
remember you only get two ears - and they easily go wrong
dBa is an industry scam to allow them to make irritating loud noise, disturbing people in their homes - but the meter reads a fake happy clappy result
There is some debate relating to the accuracy of the A-weighted system's accuracy compared to human hearing and in complex noises. Regardless, many years of observational data have confirmed its usefulness for environmental noise and predicting hearing damage
Typical noise levels
20 dBA: whisper, quiet room
30 dBA: soft music
40 dBA: home computer fan
50 dBA: home air conditioning, light outside traffic
60 dBA: normal conversation
70 dBA: flushing toilet, home dishwasher, noisy room, most cars at 70mph
80 dBA: server room, alarm clock, inside an airplane
85 dBA: accepted level of hearing damage over time
90 dBA: lawnmower, hair dryer, blender
100 dBA: construction site, riding a motorcycle
110 dBA: rock concert, jackhammer
135 dBA: air raid siren
140 dBA: jet engine, pain threshold, serious hearing damage possible
Frequency is a big part of it though. Shrieking bloody murder screams at 8khz and 150db will destroy your ears for life, while sub bass at 150db is no big deal.
That's awesome! Good to hear. It's so easy to install a standalone stereo into vehicles with the equipment they have these days that it's a no-brainer.
Fourth option is that you're mistaken and your outers are in fact electric.
its somewhere in the posts above - set out to prove as they operate like the are pneumatic, (slow dim witted and when someone jammed some junk behind them and they squashed it, took a month for them to work out how life worked again - in my mind confirming some air valve madness must have got over itself) turns out the data-card confirms they are some stupid electric joke
- note vehicle 100% stock never messed with - aside from chasing Merc induced bugs updating software their way - and retrofit of DAB and Rear camera more than 10 years ago as the original muppet left off (all done by renowned UK specialist that Merc recco for retrofits)
I've been out of band for a few weeks, had a lot to go through in the real world, however I'm still here and the Audisons are alive and kicking.
I almost died tonight with my GL with my entire family in the car after driving myself nearly into a ravine. However, since we are all still alive and well, I will *certainly* do that video
I will say this - after seeing the Audison "BT" connect (Bluetooth direct to Audison) instead of going through COMAND, I can't even listen to COMAND processed music anymore, the differnece is night and day. It does add a *LOT OF FRICTION* in the process, as you have to select Audison BT in iPhone, you have to de-select Carplay Audio, you have to go to the iPhone Audison App and select OPT1 vs Master, (90 seconds total time required for all) however - it's worth it.
I will certainly try to see how to streamline the process in the future, and tbh I'm not convinced that I even *need* the carplay module anymore as it just adds noise to the whole workflow. The only thing it does for me now is let me change songs (next/previous) which I could do via the iPhone. The other major pain in the rear I have is that with BT mode, I have to control volume exclusively from the iPhone as the car's volume controls don't work. I will reconsider mounting that little Audison "wheel volume controller" somewhere to make this easier.
At any rate, the way I see it:
* I Audison'd my W221
* I fixed the ABS nightmare which I almost thought would never go away
* I survived driving my GL off a ravine tonight
I did the *exact* same job on my BMW 750i E38 as well.
Dual Audison digital amps, a 12" Audison Voce II Sub custom mounted to hit directly through the ski sack, Audison Voce II 6.5"'s in the front doors, 5.25"s in the rear doors, Audison tweeters, the whole 9 yards. BT-CON as well for Direct BT audio..
My first drive with the BMW after 5 years (!!!!) in the garage during it's rebuild...
Back to my roots, with sound to match!
I will be back to MBworld, have been away as I have been busy for sure, but I am *still alive* and still rolling
Will post pics in the thread, even though it's off topic, I'm sure all of us by now, can appreciate a V12 saved from the rust bin and completely restored/rebuilt
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
