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Front has the 2 cv axles with the intermediate shaft (110) in the middle.
Then there are the drive/propeller shafts from the transfer case/transmission to the front and rea differentials.
That intermediate shaft (110) goes into the front differential which is not shown in the diagram. With the wheel carrier off it is a good time to replace that 110 bearing if it needs replacing. From being on this site I have seen people have trouble getting the left cv axle out off from the intermediate shaft, seems frozen/rusted to it. Just have to remember to remove that clip to pull the intermediate shaft out with the bearing. Or the oil pan can get damaged and its a big job to replace it.
To replace that bushing (200) the front differential has to come out.
Heres a photo of someone selling a used intermediate shaft with left cv axle. Wonder if they are selling together because they cant get them separated? Seems like a pain to ship it that way.
The splined left side of the intermediate shaft is what goes into the front differential. No bearing is needed on that side since it rides in the diff.
They're selling it like that because it's easier to pull the whole thing since all you need to do is remove the snap ring that keeps the shaft from coming out of the differential. On American cars, that shaft comes out on the drivers side aka left side.
Last edited by EasyPhil; Sep 18, 2025 at 08:09 PM.
I work on my car so if it were me I would clean up the sensor and spray some type of cleaner down in the hole, stick a q-tip in and try to remove any debris in there, maybe blow it out with light compressed air. The bearings are sealed so should cause any damage. See if that works.
If not id replace the sensor.
Hello.
I cleaned the sensor as you suggested. Also, the hole. Used high pressure air too, and stuff. Installed and reassembled everything. Drove the car for a while, and rescanned. The codes showed up as "STORED". However, there were no messages or lights (e.g. ABS or stability control) in the dashboard. I noticed that the codes were listed as "STORED", as opposed to "ACTIVE". When I used the "Clear DTC" option in my scanner, it did not erase these codes. Does it mean that the sensor problem is definitely still there and I should go ahead and replace sensor(s), or does it mean that I need to use another scanner (or some other option in my scanner) to erase these "STORED" codes? I am confused because the warning messages and lights in the dashboard have gone away.
I scrolled up and noticed in post #9 the codes are labeled as stored.
If the dash does not show any warnings while driving then it means abs/traction is functioning. If there was an active fault with a wheel speed sensor im sure the abs warnings would be on.
You dont say what scanner you have. I have a Foxwell NT530 thats pretty good, i'd say its probably similar to a Launch scanner in terms of software and what it can do. The scanner shows codes as Stored, Event, and/or Current. The Stored and Event codes I dont worry about. I'll hook up my scanner just for fun and there will be a stored/event code once in awhile yet the car was running fine. More recently my window was closing automatically and when I hooked the scanner up that had a fault for the door control module saying stored and current.
I did come across a TSB for the 510000 code, it mentions that maybe the reason for the fault is the wheel speed sensor wire was routed back wrong and stretched. I wonder if the wire was stretched during control arm replacement? The main point I wanted to bring up is the TSB seems to say if the fault was still active you would be getting a warning showing on the dash. So I think it is functioning how it should be, at least currently.
I did come across a TSB for the 510000 code, it mentions that maybe the reason for the fault is the wheel speed sensor wire was routed back wrong and stretched. I wonder if the wire was stretched during control arm replacement? The main point I wanted to bring up is the TSB seems to say if the fault was still active you would be getting a warning showing on the dash. So I think it is functioning how it should be, at least currently.
Sir, you always have a wealth of information. Ever so helpful. And everyone here. I am very appreciative.
I will stop worrying about my "stored" error then :-) The scanner I have is a pretty decent one (I think; I hope). It is a XTool D8S. It wasn't cheap. If you think I should invest in a different scanner, please advise. I will sell this and buy that. I have a few other vehicles too (Japanese and Koreans).
The XTool D8S looks like a good scanner to me but im hardly a mechanic.
Can you click on each fault code and erase it from the next screen? My scanner isnt touch screen, when im on the fault code screen there an option on the bottom to erase it, usually works.
I was reading thru the D8S manual and they briefly mention erasing faults. I did come across something about freeze frame data, im wondering if you can open up each fault code and see when it was triggered, how long ago etc. Also to see if the sensor is functioning drive around and view the live data for that sensor, see if it matches the other 3 sensors.
The XTool D8S looks like a good scanner to me but im hardly a mechanic.
Can you click on each fault code and erase it from the next screen? My scanner isnt touch screen, when im on the fault code screen there an option on the bottom to erase it, usually works.
I was reading thru the D8S manual and they briefly mention erasing faults. I did come across something about freeze frame data, im wondering if you can open up each fault code and see when it was triggered, how long ago etc. Also to see if the sensor is functioning drive around and view the live data for that sensor, see if it matches the other 3 sensors.
Thanks again for being so helpful.
Looks like I have a new project ahead of me LOL (figuring out capability of D8S, that is). I will report back when I have an update
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