Any common problems beyond 100K miles I should look for?
I know all commutes and driving styles are different, but I log all my fill ups and my car averages 20-22 mpg (real actual data). I did my steel brakes recently for literally $200. I had a local shop turn the rotors for 15 a piece, and I went Powerstop Z23 brake pads for $110 shipped front and rear. Absolutely zero dust now…ever, and it brakes just like oem.
As for tires, I went 7,000 miles on my tires then wanted to change to a different brand, but at 7,000 miles they still looked brand new. No clue how guys are killing tires in 10k or less miles. Must be really bad alignments and driven very hard.
Car has been very reliable, no issues whatsoever so far and any maintenance I just do myself. Brakes, brake fluid, engine oil, rear diff fluid, engine and cabin filters…..all very easy to DIY.
Last edited by JTS97Z28; May 23, 2023 at 07:02 AM.
Interesting too that this service document, apparently dated 2019, still confuses the terms "ABC" and "MBC". Apparently the distinction was on the marketing side and elsewhere Mercedes kept using "ABC" and just mentioned code 487 to distinguish the 'v2' form of suspension ...
Last edited by Tom in Austin; Feb 24, 2024 at 09:19 AM.
I have not replaced a pulsation dampener in a V-8 powered car. The bent-12 powered cars I’ve had (221 & 222) have required more time with the can of spray to clean around the nitrogen bomb then R&R of the thing. There is a nut shape on top of it. Correct size socket. Righty tighty lefty loosey. No pressure in the system with engine off. Gain access to it (pull intake plumbing?) and do the job. Mercedes sells it with a core charge. I replaced it in the parking lot and collected my core charge.










