Joseph19

Hello guys I have a p0018 code engine light
the Mecanic told me it would cost 12000 to fix which is crazy
the car takes a few seconds before it starts and it idles occasionally but when I put the scanner on the car and clear the p0018 code the car starts without a problem anybody knows what does this mean .

James S

Hopefully it's a bad cam sensor but p0018 code means engine timing is not correct between the camshaft(s) and crankshaft. How long does it run fine before the code comes back?

kafklatsch

I'll give you my view, you may get other views from the forum
if your car starts perfectly after the code is cleared, but then has long starting time followed by the code reappearing, it is likely an issue with your camshaft or crankshaft timing... the crankshaft is usually a sensor.
More common is the camshaft timing.

The camshaft adjuster electrical connector and also the camshaft position sensor connectors may be oil soaked. Many have added the pigtails to stop the oil capillary action (wicking), but the ECU may have oil in it also. There are instances of using an evaporative degeaser in the ECU, but it could need replacing $$$

Next, the Camshaft adjusters may have failed. BUT, typically you will have an engine tick at cold start.
The camshaft adjuster can cause a secondary issue which causes the CEL situation you are describing. The ticking sound is actually "hammering", the hammering can cause the camshaft pulse wheel to shift ( it's pressed on the camshaft). AFTER the hammering has shifted the pulse wheel enough, you get the check engine light. A bad camshaft adjuster indirectly causes the CEL problem by causing the pulse wheel shift. In this case, you will need to replace the camshaft adjusters and the camshaft itself* .

I experienced the shifted pulse wheel and decided to repair it myself, as I estimated it at $9-12,000 after I priced the parts. I'm a dryer, but typically nowadays I pay up... but I was irritated that the engine had been in production for many years and MB allowed the problem to remain BECAUSE in most cases it' occurs after the warranty ends...

*Rather than replacing the camshafts, I decided to use a very specific locktite fluid and when I had the camshaft out, I used the incredible product to "glue" ( good in heated oil) the pulse wheel after i shifted it back in place ( there are alignment marks)

the parts cost me over $3500 (100% oem) .. it would have been about double with camshaft replacements, BUT you could just repair the bad or shifted camshaft and not all four camshafts. Only one of my adjusters and camshafts were bad... but I did all four adjusters (no risk taking on this)... and repaired the shifted pulsewheel/camshaft.

part of my "pulse wheel" repair logic was that I would now have many thousands of miles without the hammering... confident on the pulse wheel staying in place - with the adhesive added.

The job was a bit of a challenge due to (1) shear amount of steps and parts to be removed, and (2) the timing chains need to be exactly placed "to the tooth" back in the exact place in which it was before the cam parts where removed. The hammering also shattered the plastic chain guide on the bad cam gear circuit. Order those.

Car is perfect since.... about 14,000 miles since the major work... recovered a bit of mpg i had attributted to age.... it was fun..

.... I wish I had more time to do more diy

good luck, it sounds like it could be similar to my problem described above
BUT
hopefully it's the crank sensor, or the cam gear oil wicking in the wiring in your case..


(not proofread... watching UFC 300)

vincheung

What was the extent of the diagnosis your mechanic gave you?

Cisco ag

Did you ever find a solution ? I’m getting the exact same thing and I’m sure it’ll be v same problem