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New here. Just got a 2018 S569 with only 16k miles and the base Burmester system. Being how I like bass I want to add a sub to the trunk. I tried searching and found nothing particular to the W222. So if I could get some help.
1. Anyone know of a plug and play t-harness to add a sub? I searched and found some for pulling all speaker outputs into a DSP. I just want to t off the outs that would provide a full range bass signal. I guess a complete harness would work if I find a good wiring diagram and I can rewire it but that’s problem 2.
2. Can someone share the wiring diagram that covers the Amp?
main goal is no sloppy splices but the ability to just undo a connector or 2 and be back to stock.
I have a JL audio fix-86 that I can use to sum, level, and create the sub output. Also have an audio control LOC.
My 2018 S560 is currently with my installer for a full system upgrade. We are using a Nav-TV Zen M preamp to interface with the Mercedes. This is the best solution, but it's only a solution for replacing the entire stereo. It wont work for just adding a subwoofer.
I will message my installer now and ask him how he would add just a sub. I know that the the factory subwoofer is located in the trunk, behind the back seat.
I think your best bet would be to splice the speaker cables at the sub and use your FiX-86 to convert the high level signal to low level. Forget the Audio Control, that's not as good as the FiX.
Installer says the Fix would be overkill. Plus, he said the Fix would add latency and the new sub wouldn't blend properly with the factory audio. That Fix86 is designed for using factory signal to upgrade the whole system. It's overkill for just a subwoofer.
Exactly. With the sub being in the back, what we actually want to do is delay the main speakers.... but with the Fix86 only hooked up to the sub signal, then we would actually end up delaying the sub more due to processing latency. So it's going to throw the timing off worse than it would be without the Fix86. The Audio Control device should not have any latency added, it's just an analog converter.
I wonder if there is a benefit to grabbing the signal for bass off of the front left and right channels. The factory sub signal is probably processed/tuned for the small factory ported sub. I plan to go with a sealed 12w7.
Also I am curious how your setup will sound. Are you replacing all the speakers? Which ones are you going with?
I own a car audio speaker company, so I'm using my own speakers. This will be a sound quality competition/demo vehicle for my business, and my daily driver. Will post a full build log when it's complete, but that won't be for a few more weeks at least.
We are using a 1" tweeter and 3" midrange in the front dash corners / A pillars. And a 6x9" midbass will go in the factory midbass locations in the front firewall. A pair of ScanSpeak Revelator 13" subs are going in a sealed box in the tire well.
So that's 6 speakers up front, and 2 subs. 8 drivers total.
For source, we're putting in an RME ADI-2 Pro Fs-R home audio DAC into the ashtray location. That will be the main source for competition since it's cleaner than using the car's source. The NAV-TV will be there in case I want to use the CarPlay or any of the car sources.
A Brax DSP and a pair of Brax MX4 Pro amplifiers are going in. 300W x 4 from each amp, so that's 2400 watts in total.
Wow. That sounds like it’s going to be sweet. It would be cool for a plug and play package option for mixing or matching from all out like you are doing to just a sub or just front speakers, etc.
I thought we had subs in the bottom of our dash too? I also have a sub system I'd like to install. Too big to fit in my Z06.
8" Midbass speakers in the firewall under the dash. Not subwoofers. I am replacing them with my 6x9" speakers currently. Passenger side picture attached, showing the custom trim ring we 3D printed for mounting the 6x9".
Passenger side midbass, modified to fit a 6x9" speaker.
8" Midbass speakers in the firewall under the dash. Not subwoofers. I am replacing them with my 6x9" speakers currently. Passenger side picture attached, showing the custom trim ring we 3D printed for mounting the 6x9".
Passenger side midbass, modified to fit a 6x9" speaker.
Wow. Beautiful work! Is that behind the glove box?
More like under the glove box. It's probably the best speaker location for midbass speakers in any car built today. Loads bass well, and it's solid surface with little tactile vibration. Most car companies put them in the doors (bad) or BMW puts them under the seats (worse).
Last edited by subterFUSE; Jun 13, 2026 at 07:07 AM.
Yeah, we are pulling way too much current to do that. Running our own cables from the front battery in the engine bay. Fuse within 12 inches of the battery, plus another fuse block in the trunk before the amps.
That opening in the trunk is too small for my amplifiers, so we are putting the capacitors there.
No LOC in my car, we are doing a full aftermarket system. NAV-TV Zen M for the integration, and also installing a home audio DAC in the dash for reference listening.
Amplifier rack went into the car just yesterday. This picture is blurry because I screen-grabbed it from a video sent to me. Compressed file, and I paused and zoomed in, but you get the idea.
I wonder if there is a benefit to grabbing the signal for bass off of the front left and right channels. The factory sub signal is probably processed/tuned for the small factory ported sub. I plan to go with a sealed 12w7.
Anyone have the wiring diagram?
you make a good point about pre-processing for OEM sub. Think I’ll change where I’m pulling line level from.
@subterFUSE What are you doing for the substantial amperage draw that all of this gear will create? Factory MB alternator is 180A I believe and the car uses a lot of this.
@subterFUSE What are you doing for the substantial amperage draw that all of this gear will create? Factory MB alternator is 180A I believe and the car uses a lot of this.
I've been doing this a long time and never had an issue on modern German cars. My last car was a W221 S63, and I ran 5 amplifiers in that car for years with no issues. 2 of those were Class A amps, too.
In this car, I'm adding two capacitors (each of them 2 farads). Based on my W221 experience, I am anticipating no issues. I know someone who has put more amps into a W222, and he has been fine as well.
Line sources need to be tested and measured so we can understand what is going on with them. i.e. crossovers applied, EQ applied, All pass filters, etc....
That said, I actually have zero experience with line sources because I have always gone with the "Nav-TV Zen" or "mObridge DA1" route. These devices intercept the audio signal from the MOST digital network before the signal reaches the OEM amp/processor. We get a clean, flat, optical digital signal out of the car this way, with no need to fix any OEM processing or EQ. It's a great solution, but it only works when we are replacing the whole stereo. It does not work for adding to the factory audio.
I've been doing this a long time and never had an issue on modern German cars. My last car was a W221 S63, and I ran 5 amplifiers in that car for years with no issues. 2 of those were Class A amps, too.
In this car, I'm adding two capacitors (each of them 2 farads). Based on my W221 experience, I am anticipating no issues. I know someone who has put more amps into a W222, and he has been fine as well.
Those amps alone draw close to 150A each at capacity so 300A total, based on the specs of the amps, they are also Class A amps which, while being the highest in sound quality are also the highest in electrical consumption. Your S63 had a 220A alternator and I believe the 2018 S560 has 150A alternator. I think Valeo makes a 250A alternator for the Maybach W222 that may fit but I am surprised that this has not been an issue unless you are not pushing them very hard. And the Battery is in the trunk on your car, so I am not sure why you are running power cable up to the engine compartment. I had a JL setup in my last W222 S550 and the two class D VXi amps I had drew not more than 90A and I was getting the "stop your car and let it run message" on occasion, indicating a low voltage situation with the battery. I did not have a capacitor though, although they only help for so long. Keep the pictures coming, I too have been in the car audio hobby since the mid 80s and use to compete back in the day.
The car has 2 batteries. The battery in the rear is smaller and dedicated to the car's electronics. The main battery is in front with the engine. My W221 was that way.
If the W222 main battery is in the trunk, so much the better.
Edit: nevermind. Matt just confirmed it's in back. Great news, LOL. He said power wire to his main fuse is 3 inches.
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