abc problem...
#26
03 s55 abc
I have the same problem, but I live in southern utah and there's no one around here that i know of that can fix these problems. I think the pump is not working and the last time i took it the the dealer in Las Vegas they said that the ABC valve block(s) needs to be replaced. That will cost me $3400 and now the pump just gone bad and its going to cost $2400 to $3400 more. The car only has 67K miles on it. This is a nightmare for me and its aggravating. If its an isolated problems on a few cars then is understandable because they will eventually were down. But this is happening to almost all of the cars that has the abc system. It is a design flaw that mercedes should recall because its also a safety issues. I don't know how long i can drive the car with the dash warning "abc drive carefully" or something like that. We all should get together and bring this issue to mercedes attention and have them reimburse on all of your repairs. Most of the cars didn't even last more than 60k mile. I say they designed it to fail on purpose because they think that most people who can afford the over priced car can afford the scheduled over priced repairs. And I said over priced because it failed to last a little longer. Its totally worth the money had it last a little longer for me. My friends Honda civic last twice as long and without any problem. With that said, does anyone know a good place where i can take the car to get fix in Las Vegas? Thank you everyone for the help. This forum is the most awsome place. There are alot of nice people here and very helpful hints and tips. So I hope you all stay connected so you can help each other.
Thanks
Collin Nguyen
Thanks
Collin Nguyen
#27
sorry to hear that Nguyen..
NOte: if you get "Red" warning abc drive careful...DO NOT DRIVE the car until its fix.. RED means there major issue with the car as current..IF its White, then its okay to drive it until you find a repair shop..
Im sure you read many thread about this..a good basic check is Your abc fluid level.. locate on the driver side underhood..
Dealer is going to overcharged for everything, so yes cost of parts are expensive so are the labor..Try to ask around or get associated with mechanic to do the repair as a side job..
civic= less gadgets, less chances it breaking down..
benz= more gadgets, more chances of breaking down..thats how i look at it whenever my car broke down..
NOte: if you get "Red" warning abc drive careful...DO NOT DRIVE the car until its fix.. RED means there major issue with the car as current..IF its White, then its okay to drive it until you find a repair shop..
Im sure you read many thread about this..a good basic check is Your abc fluid level.. locate on the driver side underhood..
Dealer is going to overcharged for everything, so yes cost of parts are expensive so are the labor..Try to ask around or get associated with mechanic to do the repair as a side job..
civic= less gadgets, less chances it breaking down..
benz= more gadgets, more chances of breaking down..thats how i look at it whenever my car broke down..
![rolf](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/rofl.gif)
#29
Viet, have you attempted to replace pump...??? I am ordering the pump and need to get some info on the bleeding process... I might change the valve block as well if contaminated. But first the pump. Then we go from there....
#30
Johan
#31
the abc system is pretty much similar to "power steering system"..it simply self bleed.. but you can use the "raise/Lower" button in-dash.. thats what i would do...
No, i have not replace my pump yet...
i need right rear strut actually ,, thats the code show up right now.. c1129 right rear plunger out of range..
No, i have not replace my pump yet...
i need right rear strut actually ,, thats the code show up right now.. c1129 right rear plunger out of range..
#32
Hey Viet,
Does that code with the rear strut put the abc in limp mode? Or can you still raise and lower the car as usual?
The funny thing about the pump install so far is that there is only like 10 bolts TOTAL to remove but finding them is the hard part by far. I think if I had to do it again it would take much less time now that I know what I am looking for and how to do it.
I forgot to say I bought the ABC pump online for under 1K. It is made by LUK who supplies MB with the pump so it is the same pump without the MB sticker and part #'s.
Johan
Does that code with the rear strut put the abc in limp mode? Or can you still raise and lower the car as usual?
The funny thing about the pump install so far is that there is only like 10 bolts TOTAL to remove but finding them is the hard part by far. I think if I had to do it again it would take much less time now that I know what I am looking for and how to do it.
I forgot to say I bought the ABC pump online for under 1K. It is made by LUK who supplies MB with the pump so it is the same pump without the MB sticker and part #'s.
Johan
Last edited by DRTYLNDY; 11-12-2009 at 08:05 AM.
#33
Hey Viet,
Does that code with the rear strut put the abc in limp mode? Or can you still raise and lower the car as usual?
The funny thing about the pump install so far is that there is only like 10 bolts TOTAL to remove but finding them is the hard part by far. I think if I had to do it again it would take much less time now that I know what I am looking for and how to do it.
I forgot to say I bought the ABC pump online for under 1K. It is made by LUK who supplies MB with the pump so it is the same pump without the MB sticker and part #'s.
Johan
Does that code with the rear strut put the abc in limp mode? Or can you still raise and lower the car as usual?
The funny thing about the pump install so far is that there is only like 10 bolts TOTAL to remove but finding them is the hard part by far. I think if I had to do it again it would take much less time now that I know what I am looking for and how to do it.
I forgot to say I bought the ABC pump online for under 1K. It is made by LUK who supplies MB with the pump so it is the same pump without the MB sticker and part #'s.
Johan
yeah sometimes i start the car, the code pop up and abc goes to limp mode.. do not let me raise or lower the car.. once i shut the car off and restart again.. the code goes away.. its been doing that for couple months now... since i don't have money to buy the strut..tough times
![Frown](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
![Stick Out Tongue](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/tongue.gif)
the plunger sensor give out a voltage.. located inside the strut.. total of three plungers...
two plunger is in the front.. LF/RF.. and only one in the rear "RR"
#34
Well I finally got the pump in and flushed and bled clean and that part works great. Now I am having a problem with the rest of the suspension. The right side does not work right. It keeps throwing codes c1526-002 & c1526-008. I ran the rodeo and the pitch and roll functions but still have the same problem. When the car sits and idles I get no codes only when I start driving.
Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions?
Johan
Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions?
Johan
#36
Well the ABC saga continues for me! After putting in the new tandem pump and flushing the system again I also ended up having problems with BOTH ABC valve blocks. Yup that is 2 of these suckers. MB wants $1340 each. I found some new ones on ebay and got 2 of them for that same price almost and they are original MB parts. So hopefully I will be able to finish the long learning and expensive project soon. Oh yea don't forget the front strut I had replaced a few months ago for the cost of $2500!!! This is why I am learning how to do all this stuff myself. Don't get me wrong I am very mechanically inclined but I am learning all over again with this ABC system.
Johan
Johan
#37
Just a quick update.
I got the front and rear valve blocks in and working now. Now the car reacts as it should except the calibration is all messed up now. I guess I fooled around to much with the DAS computer. Off to the dealer to get it calibrated and aligned.
I got the front and rear valve blocks in and working now. Now the car reacts as it should except the calibration is all messed up now. I guess I fooled around to much with the DAS computer. Off to the dealer to get it calibrated and aligned.
#38
Are the valve blocks serviceable? After all, the seats are steel so the chance is they are good and there was just some contaminant trapped in between. Do you want to sell them?
#39
I actually opened up the front one and cleaned it all out and yes the little actuaters inside were stuck. I then put it all back together but I couldn't get it work JUST right. I then learned I forgot to bleed the line from the valve to the accumaulator so I think that is why it didn't work the right way. Send me a message and I will think of selling at least one of the valves. I may still open one up and fix it for good.
Johan
#40
For whatever it is worth Bimmer Specialist http://www.bimmerspecialist.com sells the ABC CHF11S fluid for less than $20 per liter. Free ground shipping. Just click on Mercedes and than enter the Mercedes part no Q1 32 0001 in the part search window and it gives you two choices, one by Febi (an OEM automotive part maker), the other one by Pentosin. Febi does not make fluids, so they probably just repackage the Pentosin (the real manufacturer) brand in their own bottles. $13.99 for Febi and $19.89 for Pentosin.
Last edited by mns55; 11-30-2009 at 11:38 PM. Reason: Clarification
#41
For whatever it is worth Bimmer Specialist http://www.bimmerspecialist.com sells the ABC CHF11S fluid for less than $20 per liter. Free ground shipping. Just click on Mercedes and than enter the Mercedes part no Q1 32 0001 in the part search window and it gives you two choices, one by Febi (an OEM automotive part maker), the other one by Pentosin. Febi does not make fluids, so they probably just repackage the Pentosin (the real manufacturer) brand in their own bottles. $13.99 for Febi and $19.89 for Pentosin.
FEBI (Bilstein) actually makes their oil (06161) and it may be equivalent of the Pentosin CHF11S, but I could not find 100% certain cross reference. I am still looking and sent email to FEBI.
#42
My car is FINALLY done!!! After replacing a front strut. tandem pump, both valve blocks and flushing the system twice it now works. I actually brought it to MB because it was acting really strange. When you put the car in drive the rear end of the car would slam to the ground and the right front strut would fully extend. So to say the least it was messed up. Mercedes spent 3 1/2 hours and couldn't figure anything out so they told me to put ALL the old parts back in, I told them they were crazy! So I then brought it to an Indy and he kept at it. A week later on a Sunday he called me saying he figured it all out and it is all back to normal. I by mistake ended up switching the P and T ABC lines to the front valve block. These are the pressure and return lines I believe and that is why it was so confused. I owe David at Elite Motors a huge thank you for finding and fixing my f*ck up. I also owe him cash but not sure yet how much until I go get my car.
Johan
Johan
#43
My car is FINALLY done!!! After replacing a front strut. tandem pump, both valve blocks and flushing the system twice it now works. I actually brought it to MB because it was acting really strange. When you put the car in drive the rear end of the car would slam to the ground and the right front strut would fully extend. So to say the least it was messed up. Mercedes spent 3 1/2 hours and couldn't figure anything out so they told me to put ALL the old parts back in, I told them they were crazy! So I then brought it to an Indy and he kept at it. A week later on a Sunday he called me saying he figured it all out and it is all back to normal. I by mistake ended up switching the P and T ABC lines to the front valve block. These are the pressure and return lines I believe and that is why it was so confused. I owe David at Elite Motors a huge thank you for finding and fixing my f*ck up. I also owe him cash but not sure yet how much until I go get my car.
Johan
Johan
By the way, I believe you had a problem while back with no ABC oil pressure after running rodeo when the engine heated up. I had similar problem and it was the conector on Suction Restriction Valve (right on the pump). The problem went away after cleaning the contacts and connector. They were full of motor oil from oil leaks in front of the engine and the belt would just throw the oil everywhere. No idea how the oil got in the connector, after all they should be sealed against moisture. It is all fixed now.
#44
Hey, I've been driving my 03 s55 for 3 months without any fluid in the abc resovoir. My valve block(s) needs to be replaced and my pump needs to be replaced and I was looking a bill of around $7,000.00. So I've driven it without the abc system working. I don't know if thats going to do anymore damage to the car. Does anyone have any idea? Or does anyone know or attempted to replaced to whole abc system with another suspension system? I am tired of the abc problem. It performs great, but the headace is not worth it for me.
thanks guys.
thanks guys.
#46
Hey, I've been driving my 03 s55 for 3 months without any fluid in the abc resovoir. My valve block(s) needs to be replaced and my pump needs to be replaced and I was looking a bill of around $7,000.00. So I've driven it without the abc system working. I don't know if thats going to do anymore damage to the car. Does anyone have any idea? Or does anyone know or attempted to replaced to whole abc system with another suspension system? I am tired of the abc problem. It performs great, but the headace is not worth it for me.
thanks guys.
thanks guys.
The Star system can be used to open the struts valves. I did that and the car gets really, really low. Not driveable.
An Indie shop would be a better choice to do the job than a Mercedes shop, because it could get labor intensive. To flush the system without making it worse you should open all fitings after the pump in a sequence to guarantee that no debris from the (assumed bad pump by now) will get further into the system, and that is both messy and time consuming.
Mercedes will replace parts and flush the system with engine running, so any debris will have to travel around in the system before it comes out. Too many places where it can get trapped.
In addition, you want to buy the Pentosin CHF11S ABC fluid from Napa Autoparts for $20 a liter, instead of paying Mercedes dealer for the privilege to supply you the original blue can (of the same fluid with Mercedes mark up).
Replacing the ABC system with regular suspension may be interesting, but who will tune it for you? It may end up being more expensive if it is done right (assuming it can be done). Look around, there was talk about this on this forum.
Just my $0.02 (albeit windy)
Mirek.
#47
Well if you did smoke your pump and the 2 valve bodies 7K doesn't seem to be to crazy. Don't get me wrong that is a lot of cash but that is what it is. Hopefully there is still enough pentocin in the valve bodies so they have continued to lubricate the valves. If not you will nee new valve blocks on top of that tandem pump. I feel for you since I just went through all this myself. here is a list of the parts I just replaced.
1. Tandem Pump
2. Front Strut
3. Hydraulic line to strut
4. Front valve block
5. Rear valve block
6. Flushed twice now- 24 liters of Pentocin
7. 2 ABC filters
Yup it was expensive to say the least. I haven't had the heart to tell my wife how much my mistress ended up costing since I went over the 7K mark myself. Some things are just better left quite! She already hates my car.
Johan
1. Tandem Pump
2. Front Strut
3. Hydraulic line to strut
4. Front valve block
5. Rear valve block
6. Flushed twice now- 24 liters of Pentocin
7. 2 ABC filters
Yup it was expensive to say the least. I haven't had the heart to tell my wife how much my mistress ended up costing since I went over the 7K mark myself. Some things are just better left quite! She already hates my car.
Johan
#48
hi all
can anyone shed some light on replacing abc pump,leaking at bottom of pump behind pully,what tools are needed & what has to be removed to get to the pump itself,
thanx,amgless in detroit
can anyone shed some light on replacing abc pump,leaking at bottom of pump behind pully,what tools are needed & what has to be removed to get to the pump itself,
thanx,amgless in detroit
#49
1
Here you go..
![](http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4003/4229738511_83115507a7_b.jpg)
![](http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4045/4230507754_cf333b67f3_o.jpg)
Remove/Install Power Steering Pump
- with CODE (487a) Active body control (ABC)
Detach left air intake hose 2
Remove fan shroud 3
Undo bolts from belt pulley (41) 4
Remove poly V-belt of supercharger 5
Remove poly-V-belt (130) 6
Drain coolant 7
Remove left coolant hose 8
Unplug connector from ABC suction restrictor valve (Y86/1) 9
Unbolt belt pulley (41) 10
Clamp off and detach ABC reservoir feed line (58) from ABC reservoir 11
Clamp off and detach feed line (30f) from power steering pump reservoir 12
Unclip suction restrictor valve line from power steering pump/ABC reservoir bracket (28a). 13
Detach lines from power steering pump reservoir (30a) and ABC reservoir (29a) 14
Detach and remove power steering pump/ABC reservoir bracket (28a). NOTE: Attached with two nuts and one bolt.
15 Unscrew high-pressure expansion hose (30).
16 Unscrew ABC high-pressure hose (59) NOTE: Installation: check O-rings on ABC high-pressure hose (59) and replace if necessary. Fit the bracket first.
17 Disconnect rear ground cable to power steering pump 18 Unscrew bracket from ABC high-pressure hose (59) 19 Disconnect and remove power steering pump (30)
CAUTION:
Here you go..
![](http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4003/4229738511_83115507a7_b.jpg)
![](http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4045/4230507754_cf333b67f3_o.jpg)
Remove/Install Power Steering Pump
- with CODE (487a) Active body control (ABC)
Detach left air intake hose 2
Remove fan shroud 3
Undo bolts from belt pulley (41) 4
Remove poly V-belt of supercharger 5
Remove poly-V-belt (130) 6
Drain coolant 7
Remove left coolant hose 8
Unplug connector from ABC suction restrictor valve (Y86/1) 9
Unbolt belt pulley (41) 10
Clamp off and detach ABC reservoir feed line (58) from ABC reservoir 11
Clamp off and detach feed line (30f) from power steering pump reservoir 12
Unclip suction restrictor valve line from power steering pump/ABC reservoir bracket (28a). 13
Detach lines from power steering pump reservoir (30a) and ABC reservoir (29a) 14
Detach and remove power steering pump/ABC reservoir bracket (28a). NOTE: Attached with two nuts and one bolt.
15 Unscrew high-pressure expansion hose (30).
- Seal off line connection with blind plug.
16 Unscrew ABC high-pressure hose (59) NOTE: Installation: check O-rings on ABC high-pressure hose (59) and replace if necessary. Fit the bracket first.
17 Disconnect rear ground cable to power steering pump 18 Unscrew bracket from ABC high-pressure hose (59) 19 Disconnect and remove power steering pump (30)
- Tie lines back to the side or disconnect if necessary.
CAUTION:
- Replace self-locking bolts, if necessary, pay attention to the following instructions:
- Never recut the thread.
- Use original bolts only.
- Do not position bolts at an angle when screwing in.
- Do not use an impact wrench.