viet
thanx for the the info,i do have a few more questionsm1it was abc visit workshop,then abc drive carefully,havent seen any codes,can codes be brought up with out a scan tool?should i relieve pressure from system before beginning work,i do have wis & i think sds which im guessing is star diag,unfortunatly i can i only use it on weekends,thanx again for the info ,it really helps alot since much of what ive read points people to the dealership.
don

 

NO, code can't be brought up w/o scantools.. you should able to see codes from suspension section from the sds.

if you replacing strut.. there's a bleed screw on each corner..

if you replace pump/valve.. then NO..

Yeah.. its complicated job.. wouldn't recommend Newbie mechanic to work on it.

 

I agree with Viet these ABC systems are not for even a medium type mechanic they are difficult to work with to say the least. Good luck. PLEASE remember to keep everything clean!!! Any dirt introduced into the system will cost you huge. I know since I just went through all this crap myself. Good news is the car has sat for over a week and hasn't moved at all.
Johan

 

Just replaced leaking valve....

 

I cannot find where the drain plugs for the hydraulic fluid for the abc system. Can you please tell me where exactly it is located? Thanks

 

Yes that is an easy one, there is no drain plug.
Johan

 

Hi Guys. These valve blocks are a set of solenoid valves only which get triggered by the electronic control module based on the height sensors in the wheel arches. Both blocks have a damper. when blown (Rubber inside leaking) you get these alarms also. They are cheap and replace them first. When only a alarm on the rear replace only the rear. Then check your sensors. black plastic blocks in the wheel arches with a level arm fully exposed to the elements. (They are all the same if I remember properly. Buy one and go from wheel to wheel and fit it in to see or it helps that wheel) You can obviously disconnect each one and put a multi meter on them and read the variation in resistance in Full-In and Full Out position and check against specifications. If that does not solve it get an o-ring kit for the solenoids. (On the internet - I am in South Africa and got it via e-bay from Europe - also check https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-AB...y/323761932925) Then strip out the blocks and one (One front and one rear by fuel pump) by one remove the solenoids and replace the o-ring sets on them. (Delicate job and patient is the key to success) I had that red alarm and after the o-ring job all problems solved. DO NOT BUY the whole thing its a block of steel with holes for the inlet, outlets and the solenoids. (US$ 1340 = 23500 South African Rand) I bought the car 2003 S55 AMG Kompressor for ZAR 120.000. (US$ 6850) - 178000 KM on the clock. 2 valve blocks would means almost 50% of the car-NEVER). Remember that because of the ridiculous MB prices there are a lot of guys in the mix supplying the same stuff for real good prices. As mentioned by others Mercedes says all the fluids are for life, not your life but theirs they mean, so they can sell you parts. The stuff is relatively cheap so drain an replace regularly including the filter. That way I promise you the system will last forever. "Running dry is a driver error people". I check the whole lot once a week, takes 5 minutes.

 

Have you checked the level sensor in the wheel arch. (Se picture below) When the level arm came loose (The thing is fully exposed to all elements and "Flying objects" ) it will not give a signal to the controller which then in a more than Fully Extended position send a signal to the valve block to keep on pumping fluid into the hydraulic cylinder in the strut till it over extents and triggers the "Over extended signal" I once disconnected a sensor arm and did not re-connect it to the strut so it did not know the strut position so it just sat there holding it in the sensor "Hang lose" position. You can play with the ride height when stationary when you loosen the lever and manually move the sensor lever. BE CAREFUL THOUGH WITH YOUR HAND BETWEEN THE TIRE AND THE WHEEL ARCH (Rather remove the wheel and or use a thin long rot to manipulate the lever)