what is a fair price to pay for it installed , and can I get by with a rebuilt product .

 

its about a 3-4 hour job so $100/hr = $400

 

Jnash is it necessary to flush out the system and perform rodeo , is it ok to use rebuilt pump , found a few around $500.

 

Thats a risk you may consider taking or not. Your pump failed. There is some likely risk that debris is now in the system that could get blocked elsewhere. You are using a used pump that may have dirt in it. Again, thats a risk.
You may get lucky and just be able to bleed the system switching between high and low height settings a few times, and not do the rodeo.
Personally, I would rebuild and flush the whole system with new fluid at least after the repairs test out OK.

 

Im referring to a remanufactured pump or should say refurbished . I would imagine it would be clean ?? so is it a good idea to have it fixed by my guy , than ship it over to dealer for the rodeo ( 5 miles away) and not drive it their once repairs are made .

 

I dont know, your call, - just drive it over there.

 

Check this out...

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w220...-abc-pump.html

 

To rodeo the car before manually removing air pockets can be a recipe for disaster. If you buy the new LUK pump as suggested above there is a page packed with the pump that warns against starting the engine before performing steering wheel left to right maneuvers. The pump can be damaged if the procedure described is not followed.

 

Why do you need your pump replaced?

I own a European shop in Washington state. If you need any assistance or advice feel free to ask. I would always recommend to flush the system and clean the tank, then replace the filter and run the rodeo test. Has this already been done? Do NOT go for a rebuilt pump...we've run into several problems with this. It's an expensive job for sure to replace the pump. Let me know if you need any help.

Derek

 

Derek much appreciate the help . The stealership has informed me after doing their diagnostics , that car needs a pump. The above mentioned has not been done , would you recommend doing flush first before replacing pump. I have read in other forums a lot of times pump doesn't need replacing , they get faulty reading.
small history on car , I got the red light light warning on car months ago . than noticed how when I would go over bumps things were magnified . One morning went out and car was tilted , to the point where you really couldn't drive it , resting on left front tire . checked fluid level , fine , my mechanic didn't see any leaks either . when I bought car three years ago , after several hours car would sink down , than after starting would rise up to its desired level . I being a mechanical idiot thought this was normal .

 

It would be good to know why the dealership says you need a new pump. The obvious reason is because it reads low pressure on SDS diagnostics. They should be able to tell you their reason. Is you battery and alternator in good shape? Do you read +13.8 volts at idle on the battery? If so, and the pump reads low pressure, then its the pump.
Based on the history of observed complaints I would change the pump, flush all ABC fluid with a rodeo, and install a new filter. Only then will you be able to observe any additional problems with the system.
You can buy this and have some left over for future work.

 

Sorry...I got busy..had a nice response typed up earlier for you. The dealer or good indy (like us) can check pressure at each corner and tell you what it is currently and what it should be. The system on a completely basic level is four struts controlled by the tandem pump (p/s and suspension) and a valve for the front struts and a valve for the rear struts. When the engine is on and the pump is running...it flows fluid through the lines/valves/struts etc and operates. When the engine is off there are slide locks inside the valves that close that prohibit the fluid from escaping the valves and thus keeping the vehicle at it's last set height. If you are getting a drop in a corner or end (front or rear) over night I would do the following. Check running pressures with SDS or Autologic or the like...if they are good which some times they are (can't catch the problem happening) then I would clean the tank and replace the filter then flush the entire system until you have clear CHF11s. Drive the car for a couple days (maybe let it sit over a weekend to see if it drops). If it does then proceed onward. You have to have a very clear understanding of how the system works if you aren't getting large pressure deviations. If you need to feel free to either respond here or PM me and I'll help how I can. What I can tell you is...unless someone (Dealer or as you refer..."steeler" or good indy) can tell you and explain to you EXACTLY what's going on I wouldn't do anything...use adage..."if it doesn't feel right, it's not". Keep me posted and let me know if I can help.

Derek (who by the way....is sitting patiently now for MY S55 to show up on car hauler... )