Scantool reads "secondary air injection".

 

Part of the emissions but not the cats. Check the air pump and check ball valve (some cars have a ball valve) to se if it is clogged. Sometimes you can re-set it with star and it will work again.

 

This code (P0410) is a pain!!! I have been trying to solve this one for two months now. Below is a thread that could help (I have done steps 1 & 2 but still getting the code). Good Luck!




Well I wanted to wait for several hundred miles to pass, and I'm happy to report that my P0410 (Secondary Air) problem has been resolved. The light has been on for almost a year and probably 10k miles, and I've been trying to diagnose the damn thing for months. What a pain in the *** to diagnose and remedy!!! There was nothing in DAS that helped to identify or solve the problem other than remotely activating the secondary air pump or being told to check voltage at the relay.

Here's the saga in a nutshell. FWIW, a lot of time (months) and miles (thousands) may bave passed between steps as I either didn't have time to mess with it, or I was so disgustingly pissed I refused to deal with it.

P0410 code triggered:
1) Replaced SAP relay ($25)...still no pump activation. CEL Code returned after ~100 miles.

2) Replaced Secondary air pump ($400)...code returned after ~50 miles.

3) Turns out the replacement pump was bad, so I replaced that again. Verified function via DAS this time. Code returned after ~30 miles.

4) removed and de-coked the two secondary air (saucer shaped) check valves and reed valves in front of the engine ($10 in carb cleaner). They were completely sealed shut with carbon. Checked valve function ($50 vacuum tool) while off the car. Good. reinstalled. Code returned after ~60 miles.

5) Checked the actual vacuum LINE from valve. No seal. Apparently the translucent white rigid-plastic vacuum tube had broken inside the black sheathing (probably when I moved it to replace my coil packs) so it wasn't visible that the line was broken. Replaced entire vacuum line ($12) between the check valves and the control valve solenoid thing (under the passenger side intercooler next to the turbo vacuum valve solenoid) with silicone vacuum tubing (couldn't find the original rigid line). Cleaned the little blue dime-sized check valve as well. Made it ~30 miles, and the light came back on.

6) Last ditch effort, I ordered and replaced the black vacuum control solenoid ($40) about two weeks ago. After 560 miles, no light!!

Thus ends this chapter. I just wanted to give others an idea of things to look at/for if you experience this as well.

 

tttttt

 

Find out anything yet?

 

not yet! Erased code and after about 200 miles check engine popped up again on my way to the dealer.Now they told me that the supercharger is bad.