Reaplced Water pump...best way to refill antifreeze and bleed system?
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Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Northern Suburb of Indianapolis
CLS55
Reaplced Water pump...best way to refill antifreeze and bleed system?
I installed the water pump this weekend that broke due to a seized pulley. I've got everything back together save filling the antifreeze. I guess I'll need to fill it via the resovoir tank (no cap on radiator)...anyone done this on these cars before? If I close the resovoir cap and squeeze hoses, will that suck the fluid in to some degree? Anyone done this that can share what they did?
Also, how and when do I need to bleed the system? What is the typical process? Once filled, can I just pull the small hose leading to the resovoir tank and once pure antifreeze starts comig out of there (not spurting) will that do the trick?
Any help would be appreciated. I intend to post some notes on the water pump install as I found zero info on this during previous searches so it may help someone in the future.
Also, how and when do I need to bleed the system? What is the typical process? Once filled, can I just pull the small hose leading to the resovoir tank and once pure antifreeze starts comig out of there (not spurting) will that do the trick?
Any help would be appreciated. I intend to post some notes on the water pump install as I found zero info on this during previous searches so it may help someone in the future.
Last edited by testknight; Mar 29, 2010 at 02:38 PM. Reason: Kan't spell
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From: East Bay, Bay Area
2002 C32, 2012 S550
More Great info from Waldig
This is from a great thread on the OTHER Forum:
http://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/crossfire-srt6/27150-we-sure-he-water-system-self-burps-itself.html
I'll cut and paste some for the lazy...
The intercooler itself is a naturally occurring airlock. Merely by its location between the cylinder banks and the hoses feeding to/from it, air pockets will remain in the system unless it’s properly purged of its residual air. Neglecting to properly evacuate the fluid circuit will invariably result in higher IATs. Don't ask how I know.
OE intercooler fluid path, with yellow representing the air vent:
AMG’s specified procedure is to activate the intercooler pump via STAR Diagnostics while gently “pinching off” the (red) return hose just above the ‘T’ junction. Direct the vent hose to a suitable container in order to contain the discharge until only fluid (sans air) is observed. Most simply energized the pump with 12 volts DC from an external source to get it spinning.
Shown on an E55:
In the course of events leading to my quest for a better cooling system(s) I have drained the coolant several dozen times over the summer.
All above is true, however I have added a relay and a switch to power on my pump at will when the motor is off. I use it to do some testing but have found that the pump runs all the time you are driving, pretty much anyway. Engine on pump on but you want to be wary of the belts and fan start up, so use the clamp below and save a 911 call.
To bleed the system you partially pinch the return hose as described and drive around a bit and you will purge the air pronto. Just driving will do very little as bubbles will stream forth for a long time.
How do you pinch the hose and drive around with out getting hurt?
TA DAAA, get a hose clamp, open it and slip it around the 5/8" rubber hose below (lower ) than the wye at the i/c tubing as shown(aluminum) and tighten it slightly (pinch hose about1/3 closed - 2/3 normal diameter). THis will add enough restriction to raise the pressure in the hose and force coolant to flow into the recovery tank purging the air more rapidly.
Id do this with the cap loose as it will be cool enough to not need it and the lower pressure will make the bubbles more bouyant (bigger). Take a gentle spin down the street or idle for a while and return the i/c pump will be fully on, doing the purge. Stay out of the moving pieces and parts please.
In checking the flow I added the additional return hose to see the progress of this process (photo attached). I could monitor the purge by noting the clarity of the liquid stream. With my 2 square foot h/e it can take a bit of time.
Remember to loosen the clamp, you can leave it on for next time and with this approach you dont need to have the STAR gizmos.
Enjoy;Woody
http://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/crossfire-srt6/27150-we-sure-he-water-system-self-burps-itself.html
I'll cut and paste some for the lazy...
The intercooler itself is a naturally occurring airlock. Merely by its location between the cylinder banks and the hoses feeding to/from it, air pockets will remain in the system unless it’s properly purged of its residual air. Neglecting to properly evacuate the fluid circuit will invariably result in higher IATs. Don't ask how I know.
OE intercooler fluid path, with yellow representing the air vent:
AMG’s specified procedure is to activate the intercooler pump via STAR Diagnostics while gently “pinching off” the (red) return hose just above the ‘T’ junction. Direct the vent hose to a suitable container in order to contain the discharge until only fluid (sans air) is observed. Most simply energized the pump with 12 volts DC from an external source to get it spinning.
Shown on an E55:
In the course of events leading to my quest for a better cooling system(s) I have drained the coolant several dozen times over the summer.
All above is true, however I have added a relay and a switch to power on my pump at will when the motor is off. I use it to do some testing but have found that the pump runs all the time you are driving, pretty much anyway. Engine on pump on but you want to be wary of the belts and fan start up, so use the clamp below and save a 911 call.
To bleed the system you partially pinch the return hose as described and drive around a bit and you will purge the air pronto. Just driving will do very little as bubbles will stream forth for a long time.
How do you pinch the hose and drive around with out getting hurt?
TA DAAA, get a hose clamp, open it and slip it around the 5/8" rubber hose below (lower ) than the wye at the i/c tubing as shown(aluminum) and tighten it slightly (pinch hose about1/3 closed - 2/3 normal diameter). THis will add enough restriction to raise the pressure in the hose and force coolant to flow into the recovery tank purging the air more rapidly.
Id do this with the cap loose as it will be cool enough to not need it and the lower pressure will make the bubbles more bouyant (bigger). Take a gentle spin down the street or idle for a while and return the i/c pump will be fully on, doing the purge. Stay out of the moving pieces and parts please.
In checking the flow I added the additional return hose to see the progress of this process (photo attached). I could monitor the purge by noting the clarity of the liquid stream. With my 2 square foot h/e it can take a bit of time.
Remember to loosen the clamp, you can leave it on for next time and with this approach you dont need to have the STAR gizmos.
Enjoy;Woody
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2005 Pontiac GTO 6.0 LS2 - Blue
I decided to do a full flush when I purchased the c32 being that the air charge pump was shot, and had to be replaced. During initial refill you can add a little more than half the fluid capacity. At that point run the vehicle at idle, and top off the reservoir tank as needed. I found it fastest to leave the cap on while the vehicle idles. Never did the heat exchanger/intercooler method, and after a while all air appeared to be purged from the coolant system. Below is a link to the DIY thread I wrote up on benzworld which also includes information of bleeding the system.
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w203...placement.html
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w203...placement.html
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Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 983
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From: USA
Marsaydees
I decided to do a full flush when I purchased the c32 being that the air charge pump was shot, and had to be replaced. During initial refill you can add a little more than half the fluid capacity. At that point run the vehicle at idle, and top off the reservoir tank as needed. I found it fastest to leave the cap on while the vehicle idles. Never did the heat exchanger/intercooler method, and after a while all air appeared to be purged from the coolant system. Below is a link to the DIY thread I wrote up on benzworld which also includes information of bleeding the system.
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w203...placement.html
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w203...placement.html
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,034
Likes: 1
2005 Pontiac GTO 6.0 LS2 - Blue
What I did was to leave that cap on while at idle, and then remove the cap after shutting down. Either way you're going to likely get the same results. I believe the pressure build up leaving the cap in place helped to empty the reservoir into the radiator faster...
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Posts: 5,034
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From: Corona, CA
03 g35 coupe...........02 c32 Sold
The use the clear tube and the method grammabenz decribed is the fastest and efficient way of doing it.
You can do it the typical way where you just let the car idle with heater full blast with the resevoir cap off and just fill as the bubbles come out. You can also squeeze out the major bubbles by squeezing the big tube connected to the radiator. You'll get most of the bubbles out this way, they'll still be some small pockets of air still around, i would squeeze the tube over the next few weeks to get out some of the ones still left.
You can do it the typical way where you just let the car idle with heater full blast with the resevoir cap off and just fill as the bubbles come out. You can also squeeze out the major bubbles by squeezing the big tube connected to the radiator. You'll get most of the bubbles out this way, they'll still be some small pockets of air still around, i would squeeze the tube over the next few weeks to get out some of the ones still left.
