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Indeed that is a tad on the highish side. Loosing any coolant or air-locks? Are the secondary fans up front kicking in? The first one should do at 100°c with the second at 115°c. I'll post the .pdf in a second....
Here goes:
Last edited by DRBC43AMG; 04-17-2016 at 09:37 AM.
Reason: Added pdf file
Looks like the header wasn't bolted back onto the exhaust pipe well enough, has a small leak I can smell through the AC when I'm sitting still and I can hear it popping when I first start. I'll take it back this week and let them know
Looks like the header wasn't bolted back onto the exhaust pipe well enough, has a small leak I can smell through the AC when I'm sitting still and I can hear it popping when I first start. I'll take it back this week and let them know
Good call to remove all exhaust leaks, specially those that can enter the cockpit
Not sure how to check for air. I've run it a few days then popped the filler cap open and topped it off.
Not sure about thermostat. It's a cheap fix, but it was fine before it went in, not sure how it could suddenly be bad.
I'm also suspicious of fan clutch. Like I said there was one already on the motor. Mine was fine but I don't know if they used mine. If they didn't, I think that narrows it down.
If you have topped it up and it remains at the same level when cold, guess you are good on that side. Make sure nothing is coming out of the over flow pipe when hot. If it does then your cap needs to be changed. As Zayed says, it could be the thermo fan clutch which is faulty...
Yeah, nothing leaking. I mean, there's a minor leak at the lower rad hose where it hits the rad but I had that leak before the swap. Like maybe an ounce a day.
I'm definitely leaning fan clutch now. And the aux fans are performing normally too
Fan clutch probably. Can you not try to solder the small leak at the bottom of the rad? It could be a negative factor that hampers correct pressure in the cooling system which makes higher temps...
Fan clutch probably. Can you not try to solder the small leak at the bottom of the rad? It could be a negative factor that hampers correct pressure in the cooling system which makes higher temps...
It's just a loose hose clamb. Due to the tight fit, I always spin my hose clamps so that I can lie down and reach up from the bottom to tighten them.
I went out there this morning to tighten it before work but the shop left it pointing up, so I have to pull the shroud and fan to tighten it.
When i have more time, I'll spin it around and fix it.
Apparently the 2000 model c43 has a different ecu tune that prolongs the gearbox life and improves shifting performance. Has anyone heard of this and how can that ecu tune be applied to older c43s?
yes, y2k C43 had the tiptronic with the different gear selector. i'm sure it can be retrofitted but I would guess that you can't just use the tune without all the extra parts or even the gearbox itself
shop is gladly fixing the exhaust leak later this week. also gonna pick up my old 43 motor this weekend and bring it home. gonna scavenge parts off it to fix my friend's misfiring C43 and then figure out a way to pack it up for long term storage. it's worthless with 300k miles and a bad timing chain/guides. so i'm gonna keep it on the small chance people are paying good money for numbers-matching C43's in the future. if I knew I could reassemble it correctly, I'd tear it down and post a picture thread of the guts of a 300k mile C43 engine.
nothing new to report. i'm just so happy with the car after the swap. it went from being a "pretty quick" car "for an old car." After the 55 swap it's a proper, quick car. But I still watch car review vids and just wonder why the C55 still doesn't perform as well as the numbers indicate. The new standard BMW 340i hits 60 mph in 4.4 seconds! I know my C55 won't ever do that, despite having significantly more torque and slightly more power and weighing less.
But the torque on the highway is just out of this world. At 80mph I just have to very slightly tap the throttle and just sail around whoever is in front of me. I really wonder what kind of cars I could outrun in that speed range. Just 3 days after the swap some spikey-haired kid in a stanced G37S coupe wanted to try a dig at 70mph and it wasn't even fair. I laid into third gear and just ran away from him.
After a Winter hiatus and Spring in the air, I've begun the 5.4 teardown. I figure that I may as well do it right the first time and save myself a possible problem in the near future. I've decided to clean and paint the entire motor and will post before and after pics once completed. Here's a few pics of the 5.4 internals.
yes, y2k C43 had the tiptronic with the different gear selector. i'm sure it can be retrofitted but I would guess that you can't just use the tune without all the extra parts or even the gearbox itself
Yes sure! can be retro'd with some effort, you need to grind off your trans tunnel add on,cut out tunnel under add-on and weld or structural rivet one from 00+ 208/202. Along with matching floor cable trays, EIS interlock cables,touch shifter,shifter linkage,trans wiring harness,TCU,stop lamp switch,shellow spectical holder and wider shifter surround cover. Trans tunnel insulation under and over is also different and shaped to the higher tunnel,but optional as can be cut and modified to clear the shifter arm. I never tried running the .631 with this as I installed .636 at same time so cannot comment on 98/99 functionality,however 00 C43 runs .631 also so If you did try it you would at least have to remove the park interlock from rear
just wrapped up my tear down today too, well i have 8 more bolts to remove the crank and thats it, they are torqued on pretty tight so i might destroy them taking them out. was going to replace them anyway.
i hurt my back and had to have surgery so this project was on hold. sorry i dont have more pictures, my phone died right after i took that one.
04-17-2016, 09:32 AM
