Key only locks/unlocks if I touch it to the door handle. New key?
#1
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'05 Mercedes E500, '14 Porsche 911, '97 Jaguar XJ6, Lexus LS and IS (s), Mk6 GTI (s), Saab 9-5 (s)
Key only locks/unlocks if I touch it to the door handle. New key?
Hi everyone,
I apologize if this has already been posted somewhere, I couldn't find it. I think I need a new key, but before I order one, I'd like to know if this has happened to anyone else.
My key remote will only work (lock, unlock, etc.) if I physically touch it to the little inferred receiver on the driver-side door handle. The key will start the car in the ignition just fine, no warnings.
I have tried changing the batteries, but this had no effect. Has this happened to anyone else? Did a new key solve the problem?
Thank you!
I apologize if this has already been posted somewhere, I couldn't find it. I think I need a new key, but before I order one, I'd like to know if this has happened to anyone else.
My key remote will only work (lock, unlock, etc.) if I physically touch it to the little inferred receiver on the driver-side door handle. The key will start the car in the ignition just fine, no warnings.
I have tried changing the batteries, but this had no effect. Has this happened to anyone else? Did a new key solve the problem?
Thank you!
#2
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Electronics is not my specialty, but let me summarize the Internet wisdom
1 the door remote and ignition key are 2 separate items put into single body.
2 . door/window remote has 2 senders operating on different principals.
When door opens with long-range sender, the windows/sunroof operate with 2nd sender, who for safety reasons operate on short range only.
Somehow those 2 senders interlock, but don't ask my how.
So my non-educated guess is that the long range system failed.
Check with the other key if that is the key, or the receiver.
1 the door remote and ignition key are 2 separate items put into single body.
2 . door/window remote has 2 senders operating on different principals.
When door opens with long-range sender, the windows/sunroof operate with 2nd sender, who for safety reasons operate on short range only.
Somehow those 2 senders interlock, but don't ask my how.
So my non-educated guess is that the long range system failed.
Check with the other key if that is the key, or the receiver.
#3
Out Of Control!!
Hi everyone,
I apologize if this has already been posted somewhere, I couldn't find it. I think I need a new key, but before I order one, I'd like to know if this has happened to anyone else.
My key remote will only work (lock, unlock, etc.) if I physically touch it to the little inferred receiver on the driver-side door handle. The key will start the car in the ignition just fine, no warnings.
I have tried changing the batteries, but this had no effect. Has this happened to anyone else? Did a new key solve the problem?
Thank you!
I apologize if this has already been posted somewhere, I couldn't find it. I think I need a new key, but before I order one, I'd like to know if this has happened to anyone else.
My key remote will only work (lock, unlock, etc.) if I physically touch it to the little inferred receiver on the driver-side door handle. The key will start the car in the ignition just fine, no warnings.
I have tried changing the batteries, but this had no effect. Has this happened to anyone else? Did a new key solve the problem?
Thank you!
#4
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Are both keys having the same issue?
Are you also encountering radio reception issues?
If yes, it's the antenna splitter. Part number 2118208689
http://www.mbpartsworld.com/p/Merced...118208689.html
Are you also encountering radio reception issues?
If yes, it's the antenna splitter. Part number 2118208689
http://www.mbpartsworld.com/p/Merced...118208689.html
#6
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'05 Mercedes E500, '14 Porsche 911, '97 Jaguar XJ6, Lexus LS and IS (s), Mk6 GTI (s), Saab 9-5 (s)
Thanks a lot for taking the time to help me out! I am only having this issue with one key; the other key died a while ago (doesn't work even if touching the door handle and the little red light on the key doesn't light up). I have tried changing batteries in that key as well. No luck, it's definitely just a dead key. So, I can't really tell if it's a both key or a one key issue. Good thinking, though. Also, I am not having any radio reception issues.
I'll probably try to swing by the dealer on Saturday to see if they can identify whether it is the handle sensor or the key. Sounds like that is the smarter move, rather than just buying the new key and hoping that's it. My gut tells me it's the key, though. I'll update this thread once I solve the problem.
Thanks again!
I'll probably try to swing by the dealer on Saturday to see if they can identify whether it is the handle sensor or the key. Sounds like that is the smarter move, rather than just buying the new key and hoping that's it. My gut tells me it's the key, though. I'll update this thread once I solve the problem.
Thanks again!
Last edited by Arfisch; 02-04-2016 at 05:02 PM.
#7
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Arfisch ... about your keys and their batteries: The batteries in my wife's key for her W211 petered out a coupla weeks ago. I removed the batteries from her key and took them to Walgreen's to find matching replacements. I found Panasonic batteries that carried the same designation and voltage as the dead batteries. But when I installed the new batteries ... nada ... key was still as dead as a post.
I was near an MB dealership earlier this week. I stopped at the parts counter to see about getting a new key, thinking that the wife's key was cold stone dead. Parts guy opened the key, removed the new Panasonic batteries, and slipped in new MB batteries (I don't know the name brand). Voila ... the formerly dead key was full of life all over again.
The parts guy "explained" it clearly: German cars don't like Japanese electricity. Works for me.
I was near an MB dealership earlier this week. I stopped at the parts counter to see about getting a new key, thinking that the wife's key was cold stone dead. Parts guy opened the key, removed the new Panasonic batteries, and slipped in new MB batteries (I don't know the name brand). Voila ... the formerly dead key was full of life all over again.
The parts guy "explained" it clearly: German cars don't like Japanese electricity. Works for me.
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#8
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2008 E350 4Matic, 2011 E350 4matic
It's also very common to run into those cheap batteries that don't hold a charge. You should just get a voltmeter and see what the voltage of the batteries that you have are. If you read some of the older threads, it's very common to end up with brand new dead batteries and if you store the key near the car, it tends to kill the batteries quickly if you have keyless go.
#9
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
OK, with the clown running around the real information on the forum seems getting lost, so let me highlight it again.
OP get 2nd working key. It really sucks when the only key gets lost or dies 500 miles from home and 150 miles from a dealer.
Electronics is not my specialty, but let me summarize the Internet wisdom
1 the door remote and ignition key are 2 separate items put into single body.
2 . door/window remote has 2 senders operating on different principals.
When door opens with long-range sender, the windows/sunroof operate with 2nd sender, who for safety reasons operate on short range only.
Somehow those 2 senders interlock, but don't ask my how.
So my non-educated guess is that the long range system failed.
Check with the other key if that is the key, or the receiver.
1 the door remote and ignition key are 2 separate items put into single body.
2 . door/window remote has 2 senders operating on different principals.
When door opens with long-range sender, the windows/sunroof operate with 2nd sender, who for safety reasons operate on short range only.
Somehow those 2 senders interlock, but don't ask my how.
So my non-educated guess is that the long range system failed.
Check with the other key if that is the key, or the receiver.
Last edited by kajtek1; 02-04-2016 at 09:36 PM.
#10
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A second key would really clear a lot of this up.
There's currently a few too many factors to rule things out 100%.
If I'm correct:
The range and efficacy of the infrared does wear down pretty quick even with high quality new batteries. OP when you put in a new battery your range will increase by about 10 feet+ when in direct line of sight with the sensor in the handle, but that will die off after about a day or two, and then you will have to hold it to the handle again. Give it a try; then you'll replace the antenna splitter and all will be back to normal.
There's currently a few too many factors to rule things out 100%.
If I'm correct:
The range and efficacy of the infrared does wear down pretty quick even with high quality new batteries. OP when you put in a new battery your range will increase by about 10 feet+ when in direct line of sight with the sensor in the handle, but that will die off after about a day or two, and then you will have to hold it to the handle again. Give it a try; then you'll replace the antenna splitter and all will be back to normal.
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'05 Mercedes E500, '14 Porsche 911, '97 Jaguar XJ6, Lexus LS and IS (s), Mk6 GTI (s), Saab 9-5 (s)
Wonderful, thanks for all the help. I will update you when I get some answers.
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'05 Mercedes E500, '14 Porsche 911, '97 Jaguar XJ6, Lexus LS and IS (s), Mk6 GTI (s), Saab 9-5 (s)
Yes, I did figure out what it was. I took it to my dealer in San Francisco and after a very thorough testing and diagnostic process, they concluded that it was my "antenna amplifier." Unfortunately, I recall that the repair was about $1,700 and so I just decided to keep locking and unlocking the car manually! Good luck, I hope yours is a cheaper fix!
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Yeah, as I recall it mostly had to do with instillation. Buried somewhere in the back paneling behind the rear seats or something. You can find the part online for like $50, but you've got to know how to install it. Or, I suppose, you could probably have an independent install it if you've got one that you trust.
#16
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Yes, I had mine out, but I couldn't find a used one online that wasn't already defective. It seems everyone it trying to recover some cash by selling the broken one after replacing it with a new one.
I wouldn't recommend buying a used one - trust me, it's not worth the hassle.
I wouldn't recommend buying a used one - trust me, it's not worth the hassle.
#17
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Here's the part in situ in my 2005 Wagon:
Here's the link to buy the new part:
http://www.mbpartsworld.com/p/__/AMP...118201589.html
Here's the link to buy the new part:
http://www.mbpartsworld.com/p/__/AMP...118201589.html
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yangchi (06-23-2016)
#18
This was a 2005 wagon, right? I am assuming 2007 Wagon would be the same. I'll pick your brain after I try a few things tomorrow.
so I guess if window doesn't unlock, but door does, that's the IR receiver issue in the handle
If the door unlocks but only line of site to the door handle, not else where, then it's this antenna amplifier. But then you mentioned there were radio static as well?
I only have one key, and intend to get another one from the dealer anyway, so I'll see if the KEY battery could be the issue as well.
Marc - did you end up replacing it and fixed your issue for good? did this fix both your radio static and the remote? or living with it?
so I guess if window doesn't unlock, but door does, that's the IR receiver issue in the handle
If the door unlocks but only line of site to the door handle, not else where, then it's this antenna amplifier. But then you mentioned there were radio static as well?
I only have one key, and intend to get another one from the dealer anyway, so I'll see if the KEY battery could be the issue as well.
Marc - did you end up replacing it and fixed your issue for good? did this fix both your radio static and the remote? or living with it?
#19
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This was a 2005 wagon, right? I am assuming 2007 Wagon would be the same. I'll pick your brain after I try a few things tomorrow.
Yes, almost identical except for cosmetic, different engine, and Comand
so I guess if window doesn't unlock, but door does, that's the IR receiver issue in the handle
From outside the car, the IR and RF have all the same functionality, just a difference in range
If the door unlocks but only line of site to the door handle, not else where, then it's this antenna amplifier. But then you mentioned there were radio static as well?
Basically, yes. The distance you can unlock it from may vary from 20 feet to less than an inch. The radio static may or may not be an issue depending on the strength of local radio signals
I only have one key, and intend to get another one from the dealer anyway, so I'll see if the KEY battery could be the issue as well.
Try replacing the key battery first, and if it's the RF that's failed, you'll see an immediate increase in range (up to 20 feet) and then you will likely see that fade off in the next couple of days
Marc - did you end up replacing it and fixed your issue for good? did this fix both your radio static and the remote? or living with it?
I haven't fixed it yet because of a shortage on time. But it's on my list of To Do's
Yes, almost identical except for cosmetic, different engine, and Comand
so I guess if window doesn't unlock, but door does, that's the IR receiver issue in the handle
From outside the car, the IR and RF have all the same functionality, just a difference in range
If the door unlocks but only line of site to the door handle, not else where, then it's this antenna amplifier. But then you mentioned there were radio static as well?
Basically, yes. The distance you can unlock it from may vary from 20 feet to less than an inch. The radio static may or may not be an issue depending on the strength of local radio signals
I only have one key, and intend to get another one from the dealer anyway, so I'll see if the KEY battery could be the issue as well.
Try replacing the key battery first, and if it's the RF that's failed, you'll see an immediate increase in range (up to 20 feet) and then you will likely see that fade off in the next couple of days
Marc - did you end up replacing it and fixed your issue for good? did this fix both your radio static and the remote? or living with it?
I haven't fixed it yet because of a shortage on time. But it's on my list of To Do's
#20
Senior Member
Yeah, as I recall it mostly had to do with instillation. Buried somewhere in the back paneling behind the rear seats or something. You can find the part online for like $50, but you've got to know how to install it. Or, I suppose, you could probably have an independent install it if you've got one that you trust.
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yangchi (06-23-2016)
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