New Member: Intro and a Few Questions
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
New Member: Intro and a Few Questions
Hello, I just picked up an 08 E63 last week. This is my first Mercedes, after having 6 BMW's and one Audi (B5 S4, 4 E46 M3's, E39 M5, and a E53 X5 4.8is). My last car was a E46 M3 vert, and my wife has a 2011 Jetta TDI that we primarily used for as the family car. After the announcement last week, we have decided when it comes time we will let VW buy it back. I never sold her old MKV Jetta TDI, and she said she just wants to drive that one again since it's paid off (205k miles and seems to be going strong). That car is small inside though and we have 2 boys so I wanted something more "practical". I have had several BMW's but the e60 M5 scares me maintenance wise so I decided to go with the E63 (I know this is not a camry, but at least no SMG or rod bearing issues). Anyways, I had a PPI done, main issues that it needs new tires and brakes (front rotors, OMG!!!) and the front bumper looks like it was patched on the bottom (assume some parking lot incident). The carfax showed 2 owners, and a long list of it being serviced at a Mercedes dealership. It has 66k miles. Also to note, I work from home, have a company truck (08 tundra) that I can drive around town, so this really isn't a daily driver and will probably see less than 5k miles a year.
I still have a list of things I want to do, and some questions I have that you guys might be able to help me out. I have been on the board this past few days searching some of the issues I have but maybe you guys have some more pointers. Might keep this as an active journal as well to document my changes.
1.) Tires: Actually already ordered Michelin PSS's. Just went with the stock size. Thought about going wider, but the tread width on the PSS's is so much larger than most I thought it would be ok.
2.) Brakes: Man the front rotors are ridiculous. I see that FCP Euro sells the front brake kit with Brembo rotors and OEM pads for around $1300. Do you guys recommend this?
3.) Seats: On both my driver's and passenger's seat, it does not feel like the lumber controls on the front of the seat are working. I searched and maybe it's possible that the pump is out, or if I am lucky a line is kinked. I plan to look in the trunk today to see if I can find anything.
4.) Interior Panels: The top of the passenger C panel is loose. Looks like it may have been broken when someone took it out. Searching I found this is a PITA to remove, but looks like I might have to find a new "used" one to replace it with. Also, the rear of the headliner is loose. If you have the windows down you can see it moving in the back. Does anyone know how it is supposed to reattach?
5.) Rear Deck: The rear deck is faded in the rear, the car came from south Florida so I am not surprised even though the windows are tinted. So I am thinking of pulling it out (sounds like another PITA) and redying them. Curious who has done this and what dye you use. And can you do both the rear deck and the speaker cover the same way?
6.) Sub rattle: Not sure if this is coming from the loose panels I already mentioned, or from somewhere else. Upon searching, it seems it is fairly common. It doesn't always rattle, just certain frequencies at higher volumes. I'll see if there is anything I can put between the rear deck and cover to see if I can stop it.
7.) Bluetooth: I am missing the puck, so I know I can purchase one off of ebay, but what I really want is a BT streaming solution. I do have an older 30 pin Ipod cable in the glovebox. After searching on here, I order the Viseeo adapter on Amazon today, I hope it works well. (using an iPhone 6S).
8.) Headlight: They were a little dull and hazy especially around the edges. I used the 3M headlight restorer kit this weekend and they came out great. At least I can check that off my list.
9.) Paint: It is in a desperate need for a detail. I'm no pro, but I have detailed a few of my M cars, but this will be more of a challenge I think. Hopefully I can get all the swirls and minor scratches out. Ordered some products today and plan to get started this weekend.
10.) Lowering: Can you guys point me in the direction on how to lower via STAR? I don't have access to it, but I have friends that do, would just like to lower it a 1/2 and inch or so.
11.) Wheel Spacers: Just wonder what the consensus is on what size you guys usually run on stock rims and tire sizes.
Whew, long post. Enjoying the car so far, it's no M in the way it handles, but man that motor is a blast. Also loving all the features it has.
And a couple of pics.
DSC_0727 by MikeandGabby, on Flickr
DSC_0737 by MikeandGabby, on Flickr
DSC_0730 by MikeandGabby, on Flickr
DSC_0756 by MikeandGabby, on Flickr
After polishing.
Untitled by MikeandGabby, on Flickr
I still have a list of things I want to do, and some questions I have that you guys might be able to help me out. I have been on the board this past few days searching some of the issues I have but maybe you guys have some more pointers. Might keep this as an active journal as well to document my changes.
1.) Tires: Actually already ordered Michelin PSS's. Just went with the stock size. Thought about going wider, but the tread width on the PSS's is so much larger than most I thought it would be ok.
2.) Brakes: Man the front rotors are ridiculous. I see that FCP Euro sells the front brake kit with Brembo rotors and OEM pads for around $1300. Do you guys recommend this?
3.) Seats: On both my driver's and passenger's seat, it does not feel like the lumber controls on the front of the seat are working. I searched and maybe it's possible that the pump is out, or if I am lucky a line is kinked. I plan to look in the trunk today to see if I can find anything.
4.) Interior Panels: The top of the passenger C panel is loose. Looks like it may have been broken when someone took it out. Searching I found this is a PITA to remove, but looks like I might have to find a new "used" one to replace it with. Also, the rear of the headliner is loose. If you have the windows down you can see it moving in the back. Does anyone know how it is supposed to reattach?
5.) Rear Deck: The rear deck is faded in the rear, the car came from south Florida so I am not surprised even though the windows are tinted. So I am thinking of pulling it out (sounds like another PITA) and redying them. Curious who has done this and what dye you use. And can you do both the rear deck and the speaker cover the same way?
6.) Sub rattle: Not sure if this is coming from the loose panels I already mentioned, or from somewhere else. Upon searching, it seems it is fairly common. It doesn't always rattle, just certain frequencies at higher volumes. I'll see if there is anything I can put between the rear deck and cover to see if I can stop it.
7.) Bluetooth: I am missing the puck, so I know I can purchase one off of ebay, but what I really want is a BT streaming solution. I do have an older 30 pin Ipod cable in the glovebox. After searching on here, I order the Viseeo adapter on Amazon today, I hope it works well. (using an iPhone 6S).
8.) Headlight: They were a little dull and hazy especially around the edges. I used the 3M headlight restorer kit this weekend and they came out great. At least I can check that off my list.
9.) Paint: It is in a desperate need for a detail. I'm no pro, but I have detailed a few of my M cars, but this will be more of a challenge I think. Hopefully I can get all the swirls and minor scratches out. Ordered some products today and plan to get started this weekend.
10.) Lowering: Can you guys point me in the direction on how to lower via STAR? I don't have access to it, but I have friends that do, would just like to lower it a 1/2 and inch or so.
11.) Wheel Spacers: Just wonder what the consensus is on what size you guys usually run on stock rims and tire sizes.
Whew, long post. Enjoying the car so far, it's no M in the way it handles, but man that motor is a blast. Also loving all the features it has.
And a couple of pics.
DSC_0727 by MikeandGabby, on Flickr
DSC_0737 by MikeandGabby, on Flickr
DSC_0730 by MikeandGabby, on Flickr
DSC_0756 by MikeandGabby, on Flickr
After polishing.
Untitled by MikeandGabby, on Flickr
#2
Former Vendor of MBWorld
Excellent find, that car is easily one of my favorites and you are really going to enjoy it. E63 has significantly less rubber in the rear than the E60 M5 and could really benefit from the E60 size (285).
#3
Senior Member
Welcome! I'm from the world of bmws too with an e39 m5 and an e71 x6m
The e63 is a masterfully engineered piece of machinery that will put a smile on your face every time you take her out
I LOL'd at your maintenance comment though .. you're in for a world of hurt if you think the e63 doesn't have its share of expensive problems. Look up lifters, camshafts and head bolt problems for the m156. I bought my e63 anyways because I fell in love with it after my first test drive but I opted for an extended warranty. As with the e39/e60 m5s YMMV with the problems but better safe than sorry right?
The e63 is a masterfully engineered piece of machinery that will put a smile on your face every time you take her out
I LOL'd at your maintenance comment though .. you're in for a world of hurt if you think the e63 doesn't have its share of expensive problems. Look up lifters, camshafts and head bolt problems for the m156. I bought my e63 anyways because I fell in love with it after my first test drive but I opted for an extended warranty. As with the e39/e60 m5s YMMV with the problems but better safe than sorry right?
#4
Super Member
Congrats! Looks great. Keep an eye on your coolant level and your ear on an engine ticking noise that never goes away (early symptoms of the dreaded head bolt issue) - otherwise you should be fine.
#6
Super Member
Welcome to the forum. Your car is a look-alike for my 07 E63. The brakes you mention are the solution I plan to use when I need to address them. I used the Mercedes puck for the blue tooth, no streaming but you can use the auxiliary input for that, located in the glove box. Can't help with the other questions. Hope you enjoy it as much as I am.
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Welcome! I'm from the world of bmws too with an e39 m5 and an e71 x6m
The e63 is a masterfully engineered piece of machinery that will put a smile on your face every time you take her out
I LOL'd at your maintenance comment though .. you're in for a world of hurt if you think the e63 doesn't have its share of expensive problems. Look up lifters, camshafts and head bolt problems for the m156. I bought my e63 anyways because I fell in love with it after my first test drive but I opted for an extended warranty. As with the e39/e60 m5s YMMV with the problems but better safe than sorry right?
The e63 is a masterfully engineered piece of machinery that will put a smile on your face every time you take her out
I LOL'd at your maintenance comment though .. you're in for a world of hurt if you think the e63 doesn't have its share of expensive problems. Look up lifters, camshafts and head bolt problems for the m156. I bought my e63 anyways because I fell in love with it after my first test drive but I opted for an extended warranty. As with the e39/e60 m5s YMMV with the problems but better safe than sorry right?
But for the time being, does someone know how the headliner in the rear attaches? Right behind the led display for the parking sensors. It's loose and I can't feel any kind of clips that it should go into. It's obvious that the headliner has been pulled down before.
Untitled by MikeandGabby, on Flickr
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#8
Senior Member
Thanks for the replies. Yeah, I know this would be an expensive car to maintain, and I know the head bolt issue can be a problem. But it doesn't seem as common as the rod bearing in the e60 M5 right? It seems everyone one of those has an issue. I did not get an extended warranty since it is almost 5k. As I said I usually only drive around 5k miles a year and I usually only keep a car a year or two. So I hope I will not run into anything major in the next 10k miles. I guess we'll see.
But for the time being, does someone know how the headliner in the rear attaches? Right behind the led display for the parking sensors. It's loose and I can't feel any kind of clips that it should go into. It's obvious that the headliner has been pulled down before.
Untitled by MikeandGabby, on Flickr
But for the time being, does someone know how the headliner in the rear attaches? Right behind the led display for the parking sensors. It's loose and I can't feel any kind of clips that it should go into. It's obvious that the headliner has been pulled down before.
Untitled by MikeandGabby, on Flickr
Here's what my head bolts looked like at 80k miles
I replaced them as preventative maintenance despite my SA and tech telling me it was unnecessary. The look on their faces when they pulled the head bolts out was priceless. I paid $3800 for 2 year/24k miles coverage via USAA and they fix EVERYTHING including airmatics.
As for your headliner problem a quick search on this forum showed me this thread: https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...-fix-pics.html
Hopefully that thread can give you some insight on how to fix your sagging headliner.
#9
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for the advice. Just curious how much it cost you to have your headbolts replaced? Were you able to get the warranty company to cover that?
Thanks for the link, the headliner is slightly different in those links so I still don't see how it clips in on the back on mine. I might have to lower it down more and so I can get a better view.
Thanks for the link, the headliner is slightly different in those links so I still don't see how it clips in on the back on mine. I might have to lower it down more and so I can get a better view.
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Speedriven1 (07-13-2016)
#10
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Got the new tires tonight. Amazing how much more beefy the PSS's look compared to the Potenza's I had considering they were the same size. Glad I didn't go bigger or it would of looked weird. Didn't really get to test the new tires out because it started down pouring on the way home.
And for the hell of it, I did the washer mod tonight to lower the front a little. Gap front and rear looks even now and much better. Now I just need some wheels spacers to get that aggressive look. You guys recommend what sizes to use?
And for the hell of it, I did the washer mod tonight to lower the front a little. Gap front and rear looks even now and much better. Now I just need some wheels spacers to get that aggressive look. You guys recommend what sizes to use?
#11
Senior Member
Thanks for the advice. Just curious how much it cost you to have your headbolts replaced? Were you able to get the warranty company to cover that?
Thanks for the link, the headliner is slightly different in those links so I still don't see how it clips in on the back on mine. I might have to lower it down more and so I can get a better view.
Thanks for the link, the headliner is slightly different in those links so I still don't see how it clips in on the back on mine. I might have to lower it down more and so I can get a better view.
#12
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Received my Viseeo last Friday. Pleased it works great. Have a couple of issues with the OEM stereo, trying to decide if I want to rip it all out and replace it (I already have a Alpine PDX-5, Boston PRO 6.5 Components, and a JL 8W7), or if I should just leave it.
Has anyone replaced one of the rear deck speakers? I think my passenger rear is blown. Also the damn sub rattles at certain frequencies.
Has anyone replaced one of the rear deck speakers? I think my passenger rear is blown. Also the damn sub rattles at certain frequencies.
#13
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2007 Mercedes E63 AMG
i personally would love to rip out the factory stereo system...but OEM integration for bluetooth phone calls cannot be beat. aftermarket mics must be placed in odd locations and never sound as good to the other end.
#14
Super Member
I kept the factory HU (NTG2.5) with all the functionality and Btooth, but had a system installed with a MOST interface to an Audison processor, then connected digitally via Cat6 cables to two Audison amps, which do the D/A conversion inside them. So, have all the functionality and stock appearance, but have the ability to crank it, too. I did yank out the factory speaks and had a Hertz Mille 3-way front stage installed w/2 Elemental 10" subs, all active. I have LTH's too, and I think I like that sound of that just a little bit more
#15
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I kept the factory HU (NTG2.5) with all the functionality and Btooth, but had a system installed with a MOST interface to an Audison processor, then connected digitally via Cat6 cables to two Audison amps, which do the D/A conversion inside them. So, have all the functionality and stock appearance, but have the ability to crank it, too. I did yank out the factory speaks and had a Hertz Mille 3-way front stage installed w/2 Elemental 10" subs, all active. I have LTH's too, and I think I like that sound of that just a little bit more
#17
Super Member
Yeah, I'm a audio gearhead from way back. Although I still have a bunch of killer old school equipment laying around, I got intrigued by the digital pathway aspect of the new stuff while staying in Class A/B amplification. One thing led to another and it just snowballed; kind of got out of hand. Don't know if I'd do it again due to the complexities. Probably go simpler.
I used the Audison bit DMI for the MOST interface, then to a bit 10D processor. Had a local shop do the install, but I was with them throughout the process. They can do more high end fabrication than I could do. I had the Mille Legend 6.5's installed in the factory location (mounting depth is shown as 2.71"). The magnet is Neodymium and is smaller than typical and it fit right in with no problem. The 7" woofer in the same line would not fit, however.
I used the Audison bit DMI for the MOST interface, then to a bit 10D processor. Had a local shop do the install, but I was with them throughout the process. They can do more high end fabrication than I could do. I had the Mille Legend 6.5's installed in the factory location (mounting depth is shown as 2.71"). The magnet is Neodymium and is smaller than typical and it fit right in with no problem. The 7" woofer in the same line would not fit, however.
#18
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Well that is good to hear that I should not have a problem installing my Boston Pro's then if I decide to go that route. Honestly the stock H/K system is not that bad, but I feel if I turn it up when I have the windows down it just falls flat on its face. Also have a couple issues that bug me as I already stated.
Sub vibrates at certain frequencies. I honestly think it's on it's way out. I took the cover off and there is a plastic ring on the sub that was coming unglued. I feel like it might have been in the sun too long and is deteriorating.
In aux mode there is a high level of white noise in the background when you turn it up. Not sure if there is a way to adjust the aux level input (aux is the old ipod 30 pin cable).
LR rear satellite is blown. I read an older thread where someone disconnected the rear satellites and the front center and he claimed the sound system sounded much better this way. Might try it and see.
Just curious if anyone has experience with the Dynavin N6? I actually used the Dynavin d99+ in my old M3 (that's what all the gear I have is from that install), and besides a few little random issues it worked pretty good. The N6 sounds to be a lot better than the d99 (4V preout, time alignment, DAC) in regards to quality output.
Sub vibrates at certain frequencies. I honestly think it's on it's way out. I took the cover off and there is a plastic ring on the sub that was coming unglued. I feel like it might have been in the sun too long and is deteriorating.
In aux mode there is a high level of white noise in the background when you turn it up. Not sure if there is a way to adjust the aux level input (aux is the old ipod 30 pin cable).
LR rear satellite is blown. I read an older thread where someone disconnected the rear satellites and the front center and he claimed the sound system sounded much better this way. Might try it and see.
Just curious if anyone has experience with the Dynavin N6? I actually used the Dynavin d99+ in my old M3 (that's what all the gear I have is from that install), and besides a few little random issues it worked pretty good. The N6 sounds to be a lot better than the d99 (4V preout, time alignment, DAC) in regards to quality output.
#19
Super Member
Well that is good to hear that I should not have a problem installing my Boston Pro's then if I decide to go that route. Honestly the stock H/K system is not that bad, but I feel if I turn it up when I have the windows down it just falls flat on its face. Also have a couple issues that bug me as I already stated.
Sub vibrates at certain frequencies. I honestly think it's on it's way out. I took the cover off and there is a plastic ring on the sub that was coming unglued. I feel like it might have been in the sun too long and is deteriorating.
In aux mode there is a high level of white noise in the background when you turn it up. Not sure if there is a way to adjust the aux level input (aux is the old ipod 30 pin cable).
LR rear satellite is blown. I read an older thread where someone disconnected the rear satellites and the front center and he claimed the sound system sounded much better this way. Might try it and see.
Just curious if anyone has experience with the Dynavin N6? I actually used the Dynavin d99+ in my old M3 (that's what all the gear I have is from that install), and besides a few little random issues it worked pretty good. The N6 sounds to be a lot better than the d99 (4V preout, time alignment, DAC) in regards to quality output.
Sub vibrates at certain frequencies. I honestly think it's on it's way out. I took the cover off and there is a plastic ring on the sub that was coming unglued. I feel like it might have been in the sun too long and is deteriorating.
In aux mode there is a high level of white noise in the background when you turn it up. Not sure if there is a way to adjust the aux level input (aux is the old ipod 30 pin cable).
LR rear satellite is blown. I read an older thread where someone disconnected the rear satellites and the front center and he claimed the sound system sounded much better this way. Might try it and see.
Just curious if anyone has experience with the Dynavin N6? I actually used the Dynavin d99+ in my old M3 (that's what all the gear I have is from that install), and besides a few little random issues it worked pretty good. The N6 sounds to be a lot better than the d99 (4V preout, time alignment, DAC) in regards to quality output.
Yeah, the stock system isn't really bad, but I was just used to better for music. In my daily, I pretty much just listen to sports talk so I didn't do anything to the stock system. However, when I get in my '63, it's usually pano open, windows down and music up.
There isn't much alternative to replacing sub in stock location except with another stock sub. That's where the system really lacks in my opinion. Some guys just upgrade the sub section and they are good to go. I also don't know about unplugging some speaks and it making the remaining sound better, but it's worth a try if you're digging around.
#20
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2007 Mercedes E63 AMG
my plans for audio...keep the factory NTG2, run a mObridge DA3 out to some amps then to the factory speakers.
i have a strong suspicion that the factory speakers are being held back by the factory amp. in any case though, if they end up not sounding great it wouldn't be to much more work to replace the factory speakers. going this route would allow me to eliminate the factory sub and add a better performing truck sub need be.
i have a strong suspicion that the factory speakers are being held back by the factory amp. in any case though, if they end up not sounding great it wouldn't be to much more work to replace the factory speakers. going this route would allow me to eliminate the factory sub and add a better performing truck sub need be.
#22
Junior Member
Thread Starter
my plans for audio...keep the factory NTG2, run a mObridge DA3 out to some amps then to the factory speakers.
i have a strong suspicion that the factory speakers are being held back by the factory amp. in any case though, if they end up not sounding great it wouldn't be to much more work to replace the factory speakers. going this route would allow me to eliminate the factory sub and add a better performing truck sub need be.
i have a strong suspicion that the factory speakers are being held back by the factory amp. in any case though, if they end up not sounding great it wouldn't be to much more work to replace the factory speakers. going this route would allow me to eliminate the factory sub and add a better performing truck sub need be.