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@Xpresion
I have been reading this(and others) thread and I have(almost) completed replacement of my AUDIO 50 APS in my 2004 W211.
Thank you very much for this thread and your valued input!
The only thing I am missing is the center speaker (I do not believe that there are other speakers in my car that do not work after replacement).
Is there any easy way to make it work? Without adding AMP or other hardware?
Thanks again!
You can directly connect it into one of the Front L or R speaker Cables. However being a tiny 3" speaker it will distort very easily.
Please look at my OP and look at the splits i installed for the center speaker. you can just buy the splits hardware for $20 and its only 2 cables in 2 cables out.
Originally Posted by 00N8
Is the USB aux in supposed to power phones that plug into it? Mine does not.
I don't believe they can charge a mobile as the output current is below 400mA
Originally Posted by Tebbyj
I have just purchased one of these Android units to go in my new C55. Car was an import from japan (really easy to import down hear in NZ) and already had an aftermarket panasonic in it when i got it.
Car originally had the full nav with fiber optic amp in the boot, so to install the aftermarket unit they have run a patch lead for speaker connections, how ever they haven't run one for the can bus connection. Am i right in thinking that i can just T into the can bus wires at the amp and run a lead up to the head unit to get the steering wheel controls working? provided i get the Can H and L around the right way.
If some one could upload a clear picture of the speaker extension lead can bus plug at the amp end(green and green/back) plugged into the can bus plug (brown and Brown/red) so i can see which way around the wires go that would be much appreciated.
you will not damage anything if you get the Canbus wires mixed up. if it doesn't work the first time, power off the car and switch the cables around and power it again. Where the original CD changer is there should Br/red and Br canbus cables.
Originally Posted by Rossafuss
Xpresion, Can you quickly walk through the antenna connections to the AMP in the trunk?! i noticed when i connected my antenna patch cable a while back it ONLY worked when i disconnected the antenna IN (to the amp). Meaning my antenna is NOT amplified.
Sure enough when digging through info in STAR, My antenna is NOT being amplified. and its very noticeable. My station quality is noticeably diminished since installing this aftermarket system.
This is important info to clear up for anyone else doing this mod.
Originally Posted by 00N8
I wonder if this is my problem too? Antenna is pretty useless now.
Please look at the square connector from the 6M loom that plugs into the original square plug which has Thick Brown and Red cables) there should also be a third wire (blueish) that there should be sending 12v from the Head unit as that is the (remote) signal for the antenna amp
Originally Posted by Rossafuss
Still waiting on the XDA link to the "hardware modification" to "unlock" the potential of these units that Xpresion mentioned.
Originally Posted by Rossafuss
***BUMP***
Important info above that needs to be clarified....
!! WARNING!! IF YOU ARE NOT CONFIDENT WITH YOUR SOLDERING SKILLS AND DONT HAVE PROPERER EQUIPMENT, DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS!!WARNING!!
there is a chance you may lift the PCB tracks and will wreck the sound output on your unit if you ignore my warning.
__________________________________________________ ___ I feel like i am repeating myself when it comes to some of these recent queries, Please read the ENTIRE OP, as i am quite busy and i don't have much time to sit and repeat myself. so PLEASE make sure you read the OP and go over it a few times as everything should be there.
2005 E320 CDI *black on black with nearly every option*
Originally Posted by Xpresion
Please look at the square connector from the 6M loom that plugs into the original square plug which has Thick Brown and Red cables) there should also be a third wire (blueish) that there should be sending 12v from the Head unit as that is the (remote) signal for the antenna amp
well, there's my problem. I used the AVIN fiber optics interface, I didn't bypass the amp.
So i need to run a wire from the "amp turn-on" output of the HU down to the amp. Where exactly do i connect that on the amp? I remember there being 2 connectors that plug into the amp that both have the "antenna" connector, so i'm guessing the smaller wire is the remote amp turn on wire? you wouldn't happen to notice the color of that wire would you? haha
2005 E320 CDI *black on black with nearly every option*
Originally Posted by MooflesThaCat
Are you using the stock subwoofer? I'm just curious as to how you wired it (if applicable). Thanks!
I don't have a subwoofer in my system. I don't have an HK system.
But if i was to wire one, i would use the fiber interface for mids/highs, and then run the Subwoofer outputs from the HU back to the trunk and wire up a second amp back there specifically for the sub. Or go the same route Xpresion originally did.
thanks. I wonder if the fiber interface works with the stock sub. I'll email AVIN and see what they say.
Last question, what do you think of the volume with the fiber interface. I read that Xpression thought that the volume would be too low with the interface and/or would distort.
I don't have a subwoofer in my system. I don't have an HK system.
But if i was to wire one, i would use the fiber interface for mids/highs, and then run the Subwoofer outputs from the HU back to the trunk and wire up a second amp back there specifically for the sub. Or go the same route Xpresion originally did.
Again, Please read the Original Thread, you are asking questions that have already been addressed in my OP.
Here is a picture from the OP that answers your question.
Stop being lazy and read!
i don't think i will be able to tolerate much more repeating
I don't have a subwoofer in my system. I don't have an HK system.
But if i was to wire one, i would use the fiber interface for mids/highs, and then run the Subwoofer outputs from the HU back to the trunk and wire up a second amp back there specifically for the sub. Or go the same route Xpresion originally did.
What model is your car? i thought even NON Logic 7 HK systems had a subwoofer?
thanks. I wonder if the fiber interface works with the stock sub. I'll email AVIN and see what they say.
Last question, what do you think of the volume with the fiber interface. I read that Xpression thought that the volume would be too low with the interface and/or would distort.
I would imagine the subwoofer should work with the Optical Fiber box. after all, its purpose is to take in Stereo signal and distribute it in optical form to all the input channel of the stock amplifier
Not that i care much, however its interesting that this Thread has been seen over 300,000 times and has nearly 200 replies. yet i only have 1 Thanks .. hahaha nice!
Not that i care much, however its interesting that this Thread has been seen over 300,000 times and has nearly 200 replies. yet i only have 1 Thanks .. hahaha nice!
I can't find the 'thanks button', so i'll just say it.
2005 E320 CDI *black on black with nearly every option*
Originally Posted by MooflesThaCat
thanks. I wonder if the fiber interface works with the stock sub. I'll email AVIN and see what they say.
Last question, what do you think of the volume with the fiber interface. I read that Xpression thought that the volume would be too low with the interface and/or would distort.
volume and sound quality is exactly the same as stock. Not to mention you can raise the audio output level within the settings of the HU.
2005 E320 CDI *black on black with nearly every option*
Originally Posted by Xpresion
What model is your car? i thought even NON Logic 7 HK systems had a subwoofer?
Its a US spec 2005 E320 CDI. The sound quality and base level is incredible for not having a Sub. haha
Originally Posted by Xpresion
Again, Please read the Original Thread, you are asking questions that have already been addressed in my OP.
Here is a picture from the OP that answers your question.
Stop being lazy and read!
i don't think i will be able to tolerate much more repeating
That's an HK amplifier. I stated that i didn't have a HK system. Although i would imagine that the wire colors wouldn't be any different. The Non-HK system that my car is equipped with does not use that same connector for the antenna amp that is shown.
2005 E320 CDI *black on black with nearly every option*
Originally Posted by Xpresion
I would imagine the subwoofer should work with the Optical Fiber box. after all, its purpose is to take in Stereo signal and distribute it in optical form to all the input channel of the stock amplifier
I think that's correct. From my understanding, it takes the Stereo output from the HU and distributes it to EVERY channel that the Factory amp powers. The sound quality has no noticeable difference from stock, because basically it IS stock, you're just inputting your own audio source and the fiberoptics interface does the rest of the magic.
NUblyz - not sure if you are still active on this thread but thought will let you know - Thanks for the tip on opening the dash on my CLS. i eventually got around to doing it and managed to open it all up and put it back together as well.
Waiting on some validation on the Seicane unit link i posted above before pulling the trigger on the purchase.
I have a E55 W211 car with 50 APS sound system (old stuff with cassette and CD charger). I bought from China (aliexpress) 8.8 DVD + optic fiber box (same Avin produces).
I already read all of your posts so I know you used this type of optic fiber box and I read you choosed to remove it and replace it by an amplifier. Still I would try the optic fiber box. Unfortunately I don't know how to connect it.
Optic fiber box has a earth plug and a 12V plug, but I don't know where to connect it (on the cigar lighter ?) and I also don't know where to connect the 9 inch DVD since the wires don't match with the old APS system.
If you could help me that would be great sorry for the mistakes by the way I'm french.
That unit seems to be the same as the one i posted in the OP. its the Quad core RK3188 chip with identical layout and IO's, so yeah that unit is good
However the optical fiber box i dont know much about, but from the sounds of it they fixed the silly issues it had from AGES ago, were talking 4 years ago.
That said, if your not chasing crazy loud audio then the optical fiber should do. but if you start changing speakers due to failure (they blow due to age) then you will need to get the 6M as the impedance of the amp output and after market speakers wont match. unless you spend serious $$ on speakers that would match.
I have a E55 W211 car with 50 APS sound system (old stuff with cassette and CD charger). I bought from China (aliexpress) 8.8 DVD + optic fiber box (same Avin produces).
I already read all of your posts so I know you used this type of optic fiber box and I read you choosed to remove it and replace it by an amplifier. Still I would try the optic fiber box. Unfortunately I don't know how to connect it.
Optic fiber box has a earth plug and a 12V plug, but I don't know where to connect it (on the cigar lighter ?) and I also don't know where to connect the 9 inch DVD since the wires don't match with the old APS system.
If you could help me that would be great sorry for the mistakes by the way I'm french.
You system uses amplifiers in the boot also. The reason why you need the 6M cable is to be able to bypass the amp and be able to power the new unit and get steering wheel controls. if you decide to go the other way, there is no Plug and Play option. you will need to do some custom work.
In order to get this new unit working, you will need to provide it switched power. ( you could also use the cigarette lighter) however if the fuse begins to blow, try increasing it with a fuse thats 5A more. DONT go any higher. if the bigger fuse still blows then you will need to run a Relay setup with a dedicated +ve from the battery.
You will also need to basically cut the big connector thats in the blue circle and connect the 2 green wires that are found within the patch to a Brown/red and Brown wires that should be near where the stereo is (you need to do some looking around) . Those green and green/black wires have the canbuss / steering wheel controls. they also tell the unit when to switch on. Also within that blue circle, you will need to connect the Yellow to a constant 12V (that will allow the unit to power up and keep memory once the ignition is OFF. also the RED to a switched 12V (cigarete lighter) and the BLACK to ground.
The patch i circled in Yellow, has some RCA cables labelled Front R Front L , you need to connect those to the small optical box you got, and also wire in the optical box. and then connect the Optical fiber cable from yor old unit into the box.
(Can be used for other models around the same era as the W211)
Table of contents:
explaining the concept of upgrading the system
Head unit info
Parts required for installation
Installation info
The COMAND Units in the W211 are ancient now and do not offer much digital essence in the car. (it’s not 2002 anymore) also Navigation portion are beginning to show their age, From DVD drives beginning to fail to CD stacker door motors failing.
The head unit comes with: 1x Canbus box (deals with steering wheel communications with the car, as well as switching of and on the unit and finally lets the unit go into reverse camera mode when you place the shifter in R)
GPS modem with 3M cable (enough to run it under the kick panel and stick it on the passenger side of the windshield.
8GB Micro SD card with IGO MAPS for your country (brilliant OFFLINE navigation software)
1x External microphone, (the unit has a built in mic, but should you want to run a second one closer to you, you can)
**note, no head unit can work well with the built in Optical Fiber amp. Once you go after market, you need to be prepared to remove the optical fiber amp and either run another amp OR power all your speakers from the new head unit**
Extras that you must order (Ask the seller for them)
IF your car has Harman Kardon logic 7 Stereo (COMAND NTG1), OR if you have amp in the boot and insert your navigation CD in the boot
*6M long speaker / power cable (AkA amplifier Bypass cable) (this will bypass your original amplifier, and provide power to the new head unit and power the amplifier for your radio antenna). **note this cable will not power the subwoofer, nor the front centre speaker, nor the 2 parcel shelf speakers, just the 4 door speakers and the small tweeters**
*6M long Antenna cable (because the factory amp had the antenna connected to it, now you must run this connection to the new unit at the front).
in order to remove the stock AMP, you need to remove the cradle for the GPS DVD Player and undo the fuse box mounts. (This will give you bit more room to work with in order to remove the amp.
The amp is held in by 3 10mm bolts, 2 on the side and one between the quarter panel and boot cavity.
Completely unplug the old amp and connect the corresponding plugs from the 6m cables.
Those extras are all plug and play and will have the unit fully operating in your car. END
EXTRAS (options for the unit you can buy)
DVR camera (front facing USB camera that allows you to record as you drive)
3G USB Modem (place a sim card in it and have internet all the time)
Digital / HD TV (for watching digital / HD TV)
OBD2 Bluetooth module (allows the view of car diagnostics /info on the head unit via (app Torque)
Reverse Camera (need I explain?) END
This section here is for the audiophiles / radio heads
The HK stereo has 12 speakers all up.
4 Door speakers, 6.5”
4 Door tweeters 1.5” (They are automatically powered by the 6.5”on the same door)
1 Front centre speaker 4” maybe less?
2 Rear parcel shelf speakers 4”
1 Dual voice coil subwoofer 10”
Running the unit as is (with just the 6m amp bypass cable) will give you adequate sound levels, however because the car had Harman Kardon stereo in it, the speakers require more juice to operate efficiently and give that nice sound you previously had with the original amp, ALSO, there are a few speakers still not being powered by the head unit. Why? Because the unit simply cannot supply that much power, the old AMP’s IC alone was 10 times the size of the new units combined amp + processor IC. (Integrated Circuit)
To resolve this, we need to install a new amp(s) in the boot:
At this point, you have 2 options.
#1 Run 2 AMPS, one for the Subwoofer (mono block AMP), and one for the remaining 7 speakers in the car. (Surround sound)
#2 Run one high powered 4 channel AMP (200+WATTS per channel) and run 2 channels to the subwoofer, 1 channel to power all LEFT speakers of the car and 1 channel to power all RIGHT speakers of the car. (Stereo sound)
**note, unless you’ll be watching DVD movies on your new head unit, you won’t otherwise be experiencing any surround sound from the MP3’s you download / music you stream on Bluetooth, because they are all based on 2 channel Stereo output**
From this point I will be showing / explaining my setup which is based on option #2 as mentioned above.
* AMP: 4 channel, 4x300W = 1200W TOTAL. ~600WRMS
* 2x High to low converters (converting all 4 channels from the unit to RCA outputs)
* 1x Splitter box, (provides signal for tweeters and mid-range speakers) will be used for front centre and rear parcel shelf speakers.
* 1X automotive Amp fuse
* Appropriate gauge wires for powering the AMP etc.
LETS BEGIN:
Since the battery is in the boot, powering the amp will be easy.
Make sure you use an inline fuse for the + and DO NOT connect the ground to the battery! Follow the lead from the negative terminal and you will see a black box! That box filters out electrical noise, so make sure you connect the ground for the amp on the part of the black box that is connected to the body.
If you look at the 6M speaker / power cable. You will see a black 4 pin plug with thick RED, BROWN and a thin blue wire. (That blue wire is a positive remote trigger for the antenna amp. Splice into that to trigger the new amplifier into powering on. OR run a 5m long trigger cable from the new head unit as it has an amp trigger output.
Connect all 4 channels to the Converters so you have 4 RCA outputs in total, 2 for the FRONT, and 2 for the REAR. (Make sure you adjust the gain on the converters) (Don’t set them too high or else you will experience signal clipping which sounds like distortion)
Connect them to the AMP accordingly.
Connect the 2 REAR outputs of your AMP to the 2 inputs of your subwoofer (adjust the amp accordingly (set it to Low pass filter and set the Hz limit at 80-100Hz) anything higher and this will cause the subwoofer to play vocals (BIG no no!)
Connect the 2 FRONT outputs to the corresponding side of the car.
Front right channel connected to all the right speakers of the car (excluding the parcel shelf and front centre).
Front LEFT channel connected to all the LEFT speakers of the car.
from the LEFT output, run a new wire to the splitter box, and from the splitter box distribute the power to the FRONT centre speaker on the (Tweeter output) and REAR parcel shelf speakers on the (woofer output). (FYI, woofer on the splitter box just means mid range/ vocals and not thumping bass)
the reason why I set the front centre speaker to tweeter and not woofer is because I began to hear it crackling. And I have a feeling it’s smaller than the back 2.
That’s it!,
Set the gain and bass on the subwoofer high on the amp. Then go on the head unit and adjust the FADE effect so you have most of the sound FRONT bias, this means the sub won’t be as loud. If you wish to increase the sub level, change the FADE so it’s more REAR bias.
Extras#2 this is if you wish to retain your factory GPS module. This will result in a cleaner looking interior as you won’t have an ugly black GPS antenna stuck to your front windshield.
You need the following 3 cables to make the appropriate cable which will run from the boot to the new head unit. It’s self-explanatory as the plugs require simple common scenes.
A huge thanks for posting these details. I drive my '06 E320 CDI with the HK system every day for 2 hours, to and from work. The built-in NAV is out, been using a Garmin GPS on the dash.
Good sound is very important to me. I just haven't yet had a big enough urge to update.
Do you know of anything better coming out soon?
Thanks again, Marc.
Last edited by NCBenzUser; 08-02-2016 at 07:35 AM.
Reason: updated spelling
If you're replacing the COMAND unit with an aftermarket unit, you could yank the GPS Unit and CD Changer out, correct? I'm only asking because I remember reading about having to keep the MOST circuit intact when installing an aftermarket unit like the Dension. Just curious of that requirement carries over to this application as well.
Yes all existing audio/MOST components can be removed. Remove the CD changer before you remove the head unit (otherwise it's a struggle to get it out of the motorized pocket).
You can also remove the telaid crap in the trunk, but then you have to change some settings in Star hardware so maybe just leave thag junk (its worthless)
The beginning of the thread is about using an auxilary battery to power the HU, but in the middle, someone suggests using a relay module to keep the HU on for a set time after the car turns off
What do you think about this? Also, what do you think is the longest amount of time you could have the car battery powering the HU with the vehicle off (with the screen off if possible) before it would be an issue (either the battery dying or damage being done to the battery).
07-17-2016, 02:10 PM
