fergsc32

so I'm replacing my front crank seal and Im at the point where I'm removing the crank pulley bolt and need to lock the engine down from turning to get he bolt out... after much research and printing of tips/tricks on the forum.. it seemed the threading of a bolt through the torque converter was the way....I did this and with minimal pressure...that just sheered the bolt off... so while I now drill that bolt...im looking for either the proper or better procedure.

as always many thanks

pumpedTSI

I just removed my rad fan setup on my S55 and with belts still in place I "shocked" the bolt by hitting the ratchet sharply with a "dead blow" hammer multiple times......it eventually gave way......maybe not for everybody but it worked for me.....

fergsc32

Hmm...I could put my belts back on and see if that will provide enough to hold...I've also read to put a flat Prybar wedged into the hole where the flywheel is when you remove the dust cover and that will wedge things from turning.....apparently I did not think to use a hardened bolt when I tried that method ...lesson learned...bUT now I'm wary of trying that process again....don't want to drill out another sheared bolt...

hayseed

iTrader: (2)

why not put a breaker bar/socket on the crank wedged against the floor and turn the key on/off,, that will break it loose...

cnterline

Find somebody with the correct MB tool or rent it , not worth the hassle of messing something up,you have to torque it real tight when done anyway,and be real carful lining up the balancer on re assemble with the short bit of key way they give you to do so.

latemodel21

The MB balancer holding tool (shown above) works great if you have access to one ... however, It does not work on aftermarket pulleys (in my experience).

Another way to go is the Miller flywheel locking tool ... I have one and it works like a dream (but requires you remove the starter motor). Reasonably priced at $40 or so.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BENZ-FLYWHEE...995546&vxp=mtr

Cheers,
Chris

StarvingArtist

Didn't someone here have one that bolted in on the bottom? Might have been homemade.

210lvr

1-borrow a holder
2-apply a thin coating of grease to the inside of the crank pulley, this will make it slide onto the key way with no effort
3-no grease on crank pulley seal
4-torque to spec
5-mark crank bolt and pulley with white paint
6-torque until the white mark on the bolt is 90* from the white mark on the crank pulley

i would not trust a flywheel holder, bolt, or any other tool to lock the flywheel in place. those are meant to hold the flywheel when torquing the flywheel bolts, not the crank pulley bolt.

BoostedAero

+1 for the right tool for the right job...

I have found out the hard way on many projects to just stop work and wait... Or you spend way too much time cleaning up messes.

Get about $80 worth of hardened bits good luck getting that sucker out. At least it is easily accessible or at worst you can rip the Trans out in 3-4hrs.

AgSilver

BoostedAero

Thanks for the step by step, less room for human error (mine).

I would like someone's name on the install for the fact in case it ends up being the 1 out of 3 that fall off :-/

Is it under advisement to get in on, locked down to spec then to another shop to complete/verify install. Hell, pay them to remove new ARP bolt, install weistec keyway kit reinstall etc... That is what I was planning on anyway.

I have a 185cp to put bc the factory CP is separating (trying no to thread jack )... need a little direction too if possible.

I have a performance shop who just put a kleeman race motor m113k with drysump etc into an 06slk I was going to use and I guess for insurance claim purposes I would like to have someone else responsible for all the damage when/if it is in the 33% failure group. Hate to be a pessimist just being realistic.

fergsc32

I opted to lock the flywheel through the access hole...I happened to have a hardened share screwdriver whicheck on edge is a perfect fit through the fly teeth...worked great...I looked at that tool correct would not work as I had a previous 172 pulley

Elhonaz

Be careful if you hold it from the flexplate.. crank pulley bolt is on pretty tight and flexplate teeth may easily break if you pry against them

fergsc32

my specific large square screwdriver worked perfect.. I talked with the shardul team at upd as well since its his crank that im putting on instead of the old one.

the fit was perfect so the wheel does not move a spec...the bolt actually came off fairly easily with my breaker bar with using my jack handle for an extension... no big deal.... now to put it all back together !