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If you upgraded you turbo intercooler pump and you have a pump having a delay to startup like my Pierburg, here is a solution to have it always ON without much wires or relays
remove relay K408kW
THIS IS FOR V12 TWINTURBO of course
just follow what I did and bend both sides of the relay as on the picture
then solder a + and - wire and connect - to chassis and the + to the green 40A fuse (the side I soldered it too is the side before fuse)
That will work, if you do that it will only close the relay with key on. If you just bypass the relay as shown in the WIS document it will run the pump key off, which is what I do to bleed the systems.
Last edited by ItalianJoe1; 03-09-2017 at 09:44 AM.
That will work, if you do that it will only close the relay with key on. If you just bypass the relay as shown in the WIS document it will run the pump key off, which is what I do to bleed the systems.
I made a custom relay AO (Always On) for bleeding with my vacuum pump
As ItalianJoe1 said, use the pump ON (so you can chose between method 1 "switch ON with key" or 2 build your custom relay)
it is very important you use the PUMP ON when bleeding !
I have been bleeding with my mercedes vacuum pump clone only ( you can find this here: https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...w-about-7.html )
but using the pump on and off at the same time realy chases 100% of the air
I simply remove the relay and install a small jumper wire across the 30/87 terminals, runs the pump full time without the key in the ignition at all for bleeding.
The second way he posted, as pictured above, as long as your fused power source is only key-on, then the relay only gets closed then so the pump can't run all the time and kill your battery.
I will do this, and hopefully I see a difference but I don't have an easy way to log AIT before and after.
problem that I had with my piersburg 150 is the delay to startup
my cl is kleemann overtuned so turbos at max
that created peaks because of the startup time
got P code in DAS "air intake temp to high"
that is gone now
In SL65 probably that methode with key ON not work.
I connect my relay the same like yours (+) to 7.5A intercooler pump fuse and (-) to the ground.
It work like jumped relay- work constantly all the time also when key off and car closed.
Any ideas guys ?
Is that possible that I choose wrong place as ground and it work constantly ?
listen, first of all, I remind all of you that I have 2 CWA100 pumps hooked up and you do not need any modifications if you hook up one replacing the OEM pump with another on
the OEM wire does the job
also no CWA "protection resistance" all that is bull****
Just find the IC pump relay, modify like I did
and find a 12+ point on fuses that turns on with key
solder the + wire to relay on the SOURCE side of the fuse
The pump relay is mounted near the SAM below the storage box on the right side of the car. Every circuit that I’ve tested so far in that area is energized when the car is off, except for the fuel pump and the intercooler pump.
I’m hesitant to use the fuel pump circuit because I believe the voltage in that circuit is PWM controlled to vary the speed of the pump and I’m concerned about this affecting functionality of the relay.
I can’t believe that even the Parktronic circuit has power when the car is off and the key is removed?!
The pump relay is mounted near the SAM below the storage box on the right side of the car. Every circuit that I’ve tested so far in that area is energized when the car is off, except for the fuel pump and the intercooler pump.
I’m hesitant to use the fuel pump circuit because I believe the voltage in that circuit is PWM controlled to vary the speed of the pump and I’m concerned about this affecting functionality of the relay.
I can’t believe that even the Parktronic circuit has power when the car is off and the key is removed?!
here
relay R
if you make it always on, pump will start with key position 2 only
03-08-2017, 05:34 PM
Turbo intercooler pump always on DY
