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W211 front suspension overhaul (parts list, basics, etc)
Hey folks, I'm the original owner of a low-100ks 2006 E320 diesel and did a front suspension overhaul this weekend. I couldn't find a definitive parts list/post on my particular make/model before ordering all the stuff and getting into it, so the following is what I came up with to replace all wearable items in the front suspension system.
I've been noticing a squeak and some steering sloppiness, so decided to just overhaul everything to return the front end to as like-new as possible (within reason).
My model is the 955 (elegance) suspension code, which means no air, just springs and regular shocks. Apparently 'elegance' is a somewhat rare suspension code but the only real difference in it and some more common codes is a pair of rubber bumpers in the springs that I assume are for noise dampening. Those rubber bumpers are no longer available from any place I tried to order from so must be re-used.
Here's my parts list..
124-990-04-92
(x10, plastic rivets for the plastic liners that you'll have to remove/put back)
211-320-38-89
211-320-39-89
(front sway bar links, left/right)
211-323-95-00
(Bilstein shocks, x2)
211-330-04-35
(steering knuckle ball joints, x2)
211-330-43-11
211-330-44-11
(front lower control arms #1, left and right)
211-330-89-07
211-330-90-07
(front upper control arms, left and right)
211-330-81-07
211-330-82-07
(front lower control arms #2, left and right)
211-330-27-03
211-330-28-03
(tie rod end, left and right)
211-321-00-84
(spring rubber pad, x2)
211-321-15-04
(front springs, x2)
211-323-00-92
(front shock rubber boots, x2)
211-320-00-26
(front shock mounts, x2)
I shopped all this stuff from dealerships selling online to multiple aftermarket parts dealers, and found Pelican to be the best deal. I also ordered some replacement plastics but all told, my invoice came out to about 1800 dollars, using Lemforder parts for the bulk of it and original Merc branded parts if there was no Lemforder alternative.
This is, of course, ordering everything in assemblies rather than re-using the metal (but for the steering knuckles, which are retained). The steering knuckles (the part that your hubs/wheel bearings/control arms mount to) are only available as original Merc parts and are over 400 dollars each. They are all steel and quite rugged, but for one ball joint per side, so rather than spending 850 dollars on these, keep your old ones and replace the ball joints that are pressed into the knuckles, which are about 45 dollars each.
Note on the above: the steering knuckle ball joint is press fit and your old one probably has some rust after this many years, it will not come loose without at least an impact-driven press (probably). We tried torching one and never got it loose. Even if you get it loose, you need a reliable way to set the new one. You need an impact driven ball joint press for this, at least. In our case we passed 20 bucks through the back door of the local Firestone and one of their guys popped the old ones out and the new ones in for us.
Note on springs: you will need someone to assemble the springs/shocks for you unless you happen to have a particular spring compressor that will work. This is tricky, the springs have quite a bit of compression to accomplish before you can attach the cap. You will not likely accomplish this with a ratchet/wrench driven spring compressor. Again, better to throw a 20 through the back door of a suspension shop and have them do it for you, not only do the springs have to be compressed to assemble the parts but they have to fit right on the rubber stop in the cap in the process. This is not a job that you will be able to 'muscle' into completion with ratchet straps and a mickey-mouse compressor.
Note on the SBC hydraulic ABS and traction control system (if you have it): Don't unlock or open the doors of the car after you have the calipers off unless you have the SBC unit's power disconnected, or you'll have to bleed a lot of the brake fluid out to re-set the calipers. If you do anything that causes the electrical system to 'wake up' while doing all of this the hydraulic pump will try to pressurize itself, but since the calipers are loose it won't be able to do so. You will be left with the brake calipers fully clenched, and the computer will make some error codes. It's not the end of the world if this happens, worst case scenario is you have to bleed some fluid to get the calipers back on and then fill the fluid back up, but it can be avoided by simply leaving the car alone until everything is re-assembled.
Here are the relevant parts drawings. The 955 suspension code 'elegance' rubber spring bumpers are highlighted in blue (on the right). The retained steering knuckles and their press-fit ball joint are also highlighted in blue (on the left).
Other than pressing those two ball joints and setting new springs on the new shocks, this is a wrench/screwdriver job, albeit a tedious one with some banging and a little heavy lifting, bring a friend and you can knock it out in one day.
After front alignment, all commonly wearable front end items will be new, and your front suspension/steering should be just like it was when the car rolled out of the factory. Enjoy.
In my case, I noticed that the steering/ride is much more tight/controlled as it was when the car was new. Of course some of this is subjective because the purpose of the hydraulic (SBC) system is to compensate for such variances, and from my experience the traction control on these cars works very well.
I know people are upset about the serviceability of SBC going forward but from a performance standpoint, I think it's a good system.
How bad off is the car? How much can traction control compensate for? When should this be done? I think all of that is somewhat subjective depending on what kind of environment the car has been in.
In my case (city driver, about 10k a year), I started noticing issues worth working on after 10 years and north of 110k miles (squeaks, a little sloppiness in steering and in high winds). Considering you can overhaul everything front/back for about $3k, I think a 10 year/150k mile schedule on this stuff is a pretty good conservative ballpark.
Thanks for sharing Robert. I somewhat agree that after 10 years, $3k is not much to rebuild everything. I will be talking to my indie sometime to see what he recommends on the front end. I just feel the car should be a little tighter going down the road.
I know, at the least, I will need upper control arms (w/ball joints), lower ball joints (done once at 60k), shocks, and maybe springs.
Thanks again,
Mike T.
Hello Robert and thanks for the post, a few questions.
I have to do the front suspension overhaul too, I have an avantgarde, I thought all the base elegance and avantgarde had the same suspension components, one that differs is the airmatic and the wagon that air just on the rears.
My take on the e-bay kit is that your current suspension parts may last longer than the e-bay kit. If you were selling your car in the next six months, then I would say go ahead and use the e-bay kit.
Just my $.02
Mike T.
Hello Robert and thanks for the post, a few questions.
I have to do the front suspension overhaul too, I have an avantgarde, I thought all the base elegance and avantgarde had the same suspension components, one that differs is the airmatic and the wagon that air just on the rears.
Might go with the ebay one, save the oems in case one goes bad, its a 14 year old car, I dont want to throw in 2,000 usd for a 5,000 car.
As for the SBC, all pre w211's have this, for the ones with keyless go you must keep the key far away so the system doesn't 'wake up'.
That eBay kit uses Hamburg branded parts. Not a quality brand, if you were to order original equipment parts (Lemforder or Trw) I doubt it would run more than $750-800.
I agree that you might as well spend the money on quality parts. I mean, these are wear items. That's why they're being replaced. No reason to use lesser than factory-quality parts for this stuff, otherwise you wind up doing it more often.
If you use quality parts you should only ever do this once (unless you plan on having the car longer than 20 years...)
My take on the e-bay kit is that your current suspension parts may last longer than the e-bay kit. If you were selling your car in the next six months, then I would say go ahead and use the e-bay kit.
Just my $.02
Mike T.
Originally Posted by FCPEuro
That eBay kit uses Hamburg branded parts. Not a quality brand, if you were to order original equipment parts (Lemforder or Trw) I doubt it would run more than $750-800.
--Kyle
Originally Posted by Robert Clayton
I agree that you might as well spend the money on quality parts. I mean, these are wear items. That's why they're being replaced. No reason to use lesser than factory-quality parts for this stuff, otherwise you wind up doing it more often.
If you use quality parts you should only ever do this once (unless you plan on having the car longer than 20 years...)
if if it's just 800 usd it's ok.. but the op posted around 1,800. Then I found out he had the springs, coilover and hat changed too.. I don't think I'll be changin that so es it'll be around 800 usd and definitely good price for t.
This is the parts organized by subgroup. Below is a quote for all MB Genuine parts, if you the Lem route it'll be half ot it, quted aroud 700-900 for a new front suspension, excluding the shocks and springs, for that imho better get a complete aftermarket kit for 1k.
04-16-2017, 03:05 PM
