When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The best and only way to deal with trolls is to ignore them. Sometimes its fun to bait them, but most trolls have nothing better to do, so you end up encouraging them.
E Coupe C207, ML W166, ML W164, Sprinter 1500/144, W111 SB220 Fintail(s), A5 chassis Beetle 5+5
Originally Posted by Yidney
Yeah, I realize I'm feeding the troll, but I'm doing it intentionally. Sort of like if you have an unreasonably obnoxious and opinionated neighbor, so you put up yard signs for some candidate or issue you know he rabidly opposes just to watch him go nuts. At some level it's just sort of sophomoric silliness, but at some other level it's sort of fascinating to wonder why someone would keep coming back with long winded posts about oil to an audience that is not listening. But I'm sorta bored with it now. At the end of the day, all you have to show for your fun is a bunch of holes in your yard from sign posts.
E Coupe C207, ML W166, ML W164, Sprinter 1500/144, W111 SB220 Fintail(s), A5 chassis Beetle 5+5
Originally Posted by Rudeney
Audi_junkie, it seems you are here for no other purpose than to argue. You use the typical argument fallacies, like information inundation, personal attacks, and straw men. I come here to help people, not to argue. Have fun with your arguing! <Rodney out>.
Translation = We're too dumb or stubborn to incorporate new information, no matter how relevant and carefully explained.
Our best response is to act like a child having a tantrum....call names and insist that everyone pay attention!
Even sadder, the totality of your participation is to try and argue with me over a rhetorical detail from some other guy's website. It's not enough to accept my assertion that sand in your oil is abrasive, and without dumping it out, it may cause wear. A middle school boy could understand that concept.....you don't.
Could it just be Windman misstated this bit....maybe....but English isn't his first language. Maybe write to him, or start you own bitter little thread. lol.
I will check it out. I witnessed the MaxLife quiet lifters in a Volvo I sold to a friend. That engine was always ticky....finish an oil change with my friend, we were both like....whoa. This was just 5w-30, not even a thick oil to mask it.
No comment on the thread above though. I dunno what people are trying to gain by monkeying with or changing a filter more than is NECESSARY, when they know it will shoot some silicon into the engine. It shows up on UOAs, sometimes with extra wear.
This why guys I know change their air filters about 1000 miles before an oil change, to get the filter working properly than drop the oil with the abrasive silicon out. It's pretty simple stuff.
Still waiting for you to check that thread. Thanks.
The best part about this is that the troll keeps feeding himself. Self sufficient troll. The 209 section needed some entertainment anyway.
This thread has it all...large pics of oil containers, responses to questions nobody asked, unintelligent sarcasm that's not really sarcasm, links to 'puns' that aren't really puns. I actually look forward to reading this thread.
Hey Junkie, post some pics of your other rides. I'm curious as to what other mods you have done over the years.
Get yourself a fumoto valve and you won't have to change that plug ever again or worry about a washer. It's a ball valve that will outlast the car...lol You will not get oil on yourself and it's not messy. Turn the valve and let it drain. Then close it and fill the car like normal.
I've had them on all of our vehicles. I went to put one on our w211 and the stupid pan gets in the way so I have to get their different style version so it will fit without hitting the pan. The one I took off our CLK worked flawlessly.
In fact if you want it you can have it cheap since I have no use for it.
Tomorrow I am going to change my oil. Audi Junkie, could you please summarize everything you know about oil in one post so that I make the correct choice? Two topics are of particular interest - kinematic viscosity and more pictures of your wife's car. Thanks.
Tomorrow I am going to change my oil. Audi Junkie, could you please summarize everything you know about oil in one post so that I make the correct choice? Two topics are of particular interest - kinematic viscosity and more pictures of your wife's car. Thanks.
That's a lot of VAG cars that generally seep oil from every nook, cranny, seal, and crack...no wonder you're an expert on oil. I'm partial to the older C5 alroad. I always enjoy fixing oil leaks on that...keeps you on your toes.
Yidney, my advice for your oil change is to start with some push-ups.
I'm sure that will sting if I ever figure out what it means.
After one year and a whopping 3,500 miles, and after much soul searching, I decided on Mobil 1 because I learned from this thread that it is the only oil that is recommended, approved, and, most important of all, compatible. All three of those things. Any other oil will eat your cylinder walls. Fact.
I'm sure that will sting if I ever figure out what it means.
After one year and a whopping 3,500 miles, and after much soul searching, I decided on Mobil 1 because I learned from this thread that it is the only oil that is recommended, approved, and, most important of all, compatible. All three of those things. Any other oil will eat your cylinder walls. Fact.
Coward!!!!!
Seriously, I agree with your "oil path". As I stated earlier, after the research I did on oils I decided Mobil 1 was the best option for a number of reasons. My research was far less than that of some on this forum, but enough to lock me into Mobil 1 and use time investigating and doing other things. Car has near 130K miles and it runs extremely well.....
E Coupe C207, ML W166, ML W164, Sprinter 1500/144, W111 SB220 Fintail(s), A5 chassis Beetle 5+5
Which of these oils will make my slow revving port injection Mercedes engine assplode???
If you don't know, you shouldn't be posting in this thread.
The answer for this moment seems to be that we could go 130k miles on Iffy Lube drum oil, it's no feat.
It's funny how people think that no car mfg ever had lubrication problems with "recommended" oil changes. It's ok to stick your head in the sand, but I'd rather be confident that I'm not burning out the engine BEFORE it actually happens. Please explain your guy's predictive methodology for that, keeping in mind what I said about mfg "recommendations" not being totally reliable.
It's also lame that nobody addressed my exact scenario where I am servicing an engine with a 60k of unknown history. I'm not sure if people think I need to use $8 a quart Mobil 1 for short changes....or just drive it full 13k intervals, relying on wishful thinking? Does anyone have a better idea how to clean the engine???? duh.
Also nobody addressed the 3rd World owners who might not have access to M1 0w-40 and even so, it's a hugely expensive and actually poor choice compared to common 15w-40 in hot climates.
Hmm, let me rely on the guys who know squat, with zero experience with any lubes other than Mobil 1, who just drive their engines into mediocrity. It actually reinforces my preconception of Mercedes owners. Of course they only complain about the $8 a quart in private, lol!
Last edited by Audi Junkie; Jul 9, 2017 at 10:06 PM.
E Coupe C207, ML W166, ML W164, Sprinter 1500/144, W111 SB220 Fintail(s), A5 chassis Beetle 5+5
There's also a lame disconnect when guys think Mobil 1 is the best, when it's easily demonstrated to NOT be the best....
Nope, no comments about that! Usually it's a mechanics who recommends the oil to a customer, but now they have a colorful sticker on their engine to rely on...at least those who don't have a strong male influence in their life.
Oh, thanks Audi Junkie, we're here lurking on a lube thread with our heads up our butts and no clue what the specs mean, what products are available, alternative methods with shorter intervals....none of that. NOW we know a lot more about it all, and can tell our friends....giving you full credit for passing this along.
THANKS AGAIN AUDI JUNKIE!!!
Last edited by Audi Junkie; Jul 9, 2017 at 10:19 PM.
Well now darn it all, if you had posted all this useful information BEFORE I changed my oil I would have picked one of those other oils with the really photogenic bottles. If only I had known I could rely on a Pennzoil ad that says Pennzoil is better than Mobil 1. Who ever could have imagined that Pennzoil would pay for an ad that says that.
Which of these oils will make my slow revving port injection Mercedes engine assplode???
In all seriousness I plan to try some castrol edge titanium 0w40 due to this thread if I can find it cheaper than Mobil 1 which should be easy here. Hopefully there is no assplosion.
E Coupe C207, ML W166, ML W164, Sprinter 1500/144, W111 SB220 Fintail(s), A5 chassis Beetle 5+5
Originally Posted by Yidney
Well now darn it all, if you had posted all this useful information BEFORE I changed my oil I would have picked one of those other oils with the really photogenic bottles. If only I had known I could rely on a Pennzoil ad that says Pennzoil is better than Mobil 1. Who ever could have imagined that Pennzoil would pay for an ad that says that.
Oh, I thought the bright colors would be helpful for you
SAE Sequence IIIG, yo
I almost feel sorry for someone like you, obviously at the end of their intellectual rope.
American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) Sequence III Engine Oil Certification Tests have been used for the past forty-five years to evaluate lubricant performance characteristics for valvetrain wear, viscosity increase, and piston deposit formation. Minimum performance standards for passenger car light duty gasoline engine oil categories are set by the International Lubricants Standardization and Approval Committee (ILSAC) (1) and the American Petroleum Institute (API) (2). This paper describes the development of the new ASTM Sequence IIIG Engine Oil Certification Test for use in evaluating the performance characteristics of engine oils meeting the next generation, low sulfur, low phosphorus, ILSAC GF-4 and API licensing requirements.
Castrol EDGE Bio-Synthetic Motor Oil
Pioneering With Plants to Push the Boundaries of Performance
Advances in engine technology have led to increased power and efficiency, meaning engines work harder and under higher pressures than ever before. The only thing keeping metal engine components apart is the oil, so it needs to be strong and remain strong.
Until now there hasn’t been an oil that could both harness the natural lubricating properties of plants, and give the high level of performance required by today’s car engines.
Our revolutionary Eco-Engineering technology combines the Fluid Titanium Technology of Castrol EDGE with 25% renewable plant-based oil meaning our strongest oil is now both Titanium strong and more renewable.
How is Castrol EDGE Bio-Synthetic Oil Made?
When sugarcane syrup is fermented it produces renewable hydrocarbon molecules that can be transformed into high performance biobased oil. At Castrol we use this biobased oil in our Castrol EDGE Bio-Synthetic formulation to deliver a more renewable alternative without compromising the 100% Castrol EDGE performance you’d expect.
[QUOTE=I almost feel sorry for someone like you, obviously at the end of their intellectual rope. [/QUOTE]
You're not a terribly clever person, are you? You are too boring to engage with, even if just for fun. By the way, unless I missed it, you have never said what you do for a living, or what qualifies you as an oil expert. Petroleum engineer? WalMart greeter?
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
