blackduc1

Hello all,

I was wondering what the consensus is regarding breaking in a new set of pads and rotors? I'm getting conflicting opinions as to whether you should really heat them up a few times, or just drive carefully for the first 50-100 miles. Does the way you treat new components have any effect on how they will perform over time?

Thanks!

blackduc1

Rudeney

I am no expert on this, but what I read about it is that the key to a good break-in is two things: One, the shapes of the surface of the pads and rotors need to match. Even when new and seemingly smooth, there are still microscopic imperfections that need to match up. Two, the rotors need to be coated with a thin but even layer of pad material. Heat is what effects that transfer. If you drive carefully, you will still be heating up the rotors, but when you come to a full stop, you'll also be fusing a thicker layer of pad material to the rotor at that spot. So, the key is to heat things up and then allow the even transfer of material. To do that, you;d have to drive in such a way that you don't ever fully stop with the pads against the rotors.

Of course in daily driving situations, no stopping with pads against the rotors would be nearly impossible. So, that's why people do the "race-style" break-in. To do that, you need to a place where you can drive both slowly and rapidly without needing to stop. An empty parking lot may be a good choice. Drive around at speeds under 20mph, applying the brakes generously, but do not stop. Do this until you begin to smell the material heating up - you may even see some smoke. Once they are heated, speed up to about 60mph, then brake very hard, but not quite enough to activate ABS. Before coming to a complete stop, let off the brakes and drive slowly for a minute or two. Repeat those 60mph-1mph run 5-10 times. Do NOT stop with the brakes against the rotors! Park the car and let things cool down before then driving normally.

blackduc1

Thanks Rudeney! I was familiar with the 'race' style break in from my days on the track, and I was confident that heating the rotors up and then stopping and holding was a bad idea, but now I have confirmation from an expert!!!

I haven't driven more than a few miles since the brakes were installed, so I think I'll find a parking lot tonight and follow your instructions.

You are a wealth of knowledge sir, and I'm sure I speak for others when I say that your input is greatly appreciated and welcomed!

Thanks again Rudeney!

Best,

blackduc1

aleks001

I would advise against bedding in brakes. I use to do it and would always get squeels. Since i stopped ive never had issues. Also if you look at this link from textar a major brake manufacturer they say not to bed in the brakes and be as gentle as you can on them for 200km.

https://textar-professional.com/bedd...-instructions/

degeja

It depends on the pad- manufacturers include instructons;
some say dont bed in because they are pre-treated
Others give specific instructions

aleks001

I've been through about 5 different manufactures and not one provides instructions on bedding in and I couldn't even find any information on their website. I personally have given up on this bedding process but it's your car do what makes you comfortable.

Rudeney

Brake noise is almost never from the front of the pad where it contacts the rotor. It is almost always from the back of the pad. When the pad contacts the rotor, if it chatters, the metal-on-metal surfaces of the back of the pad against the caliper or bracket is what makes the noise. Proper break-in can help reduce a pads propensity to chatter, but not always. Some pads and rotor combinations are worse than other. The best solution for brake noise is to treat the back side of the pad. Some manufacturers put a shim on the back of the pad that helps. Some even use materials in those shims that soften with heat and "bond" them to the calipers/brackets. Another solution is a lubricant. There are many options on the market, but you need one that will work under the high heat conditions of the braking system. I have found the Permatex lubricant to be insufficient. There are some like Pastelub-2400 that are better. MBZ's brake paste is pretty good. I'm not sure what OEM brand they are reselling, but it works better than Permatex.

Also, if you are changing just the pads and keeping the rotors (because they are still in spec), it's best to have them turned. If that's not practical, then you can "knock them down", which is a process of sanding down the shine on the surface. This isn't meant to level the surface, but to get rid of the shine so the new pads have a surface to bit into without heat being reflected back into the pad. Some racers will actually knock-down their rotors in between heats for better braking.

degeja

Rudney is right.
For bedding for instance see EBC see utem 9. https://ebcbrakes.com/about-ebc/faqs/
POWERSTOP also gives bedding procedures in the replacement procedure.

Some major brands are summarized at https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiret....jsp?techid=85

aleks001

the link you provided to ebc states for bedding in:

Bedding in when the red EBC surface coating (marked on the pads as Brake In) is applied.
Best procedure is to drive gently avoiding harsh braking unless in an emergency for first 100 miles. In the second 100 miles (up to 200) you can use gently increasing brake pressures when using the brakes.

Only after 200 miles urban driving (not 200 miles on a freeway where brakes are almost unused) should you attempt to apply heavy load and heat to the brakes. To do this final bedding on a QUIET ROAD in safe traffic apply the brakes and slow from 60 to 10 MPH five times in a row. Then drive slowly for a few minutes if safe to do so to allow the brakes to cool. Try to avoid coming to a rest whilst the brakes are heated.

Tirerack states the same for pretty much all the brands to.

blackduc1

Thanks All!! Good advice and ideas!!

One other question? Is Brembo the OEM manufacturer?

aleks001

This is difficult to answer as for some MB models they would be and others they wouldn't. I personally would have no issues using them on anything they are surely by now one of the biggest braking systems manufacturers in the world, it also changes from market to market as well, so Australia might get Jurid and the US might be Brembo.

Generally these are good even if they are not OEM at times, but most are OEM.
Brembo
Textar
Jurid
Pagid
zimmerman
meyle
ATE
Bosch
TRW
HAWK
PAGID

You really can't go wrong with any of the above, regardless of if they are OEM or not.

blackduc1

I am familiar with most brands listed, and I have used Pagid and Hawk on Porsche.
I followed Rudeneys direction to the letter and the brakes are very good; no squeaking or high pitched noises. When I spoke with a Brembo technician on the phone, his advice was very similar, and he told me that my factory set up was most likely Brembo. I’m going to have the wheels off later today and I’m going to try and identify.
Thanks for all of the information and opinions.
Love this site!
Best,
blackduc1