Yellowspeed Coilover rear spings conversion
#1
Yellowspeed Coilover rear spings conversion
I am not happy at all with the rear coil springs from yellowspeed
as they don't sell 20kg springs I decided to buy a whole second set and convert myself
a pro in the UK can make you custom springs but I would have to send him the whole coil overs and that was close to a whole new set's price
so wt*
they come with 14kg rear and 20kg front
after all the work I found out that there is no special preload at all, just the spring size minus 1/2 cm so they don't move
so preload on these springs is bull****
the front springs are shorter then the rear but you can compensate with the coil adjustment
just copy the none preload from the front to the rear
now I have 20kg front and 20kg rear
test drive tomorrow
as they don't sell 20kg springs I decided to buy a whole second set and convert myself
a pro in the UK can make you custom springs but I would have to send him the whole coil overs and that was close to a whole new set's price
so wt*
they come with 14kg rear and 20kg front
after all the work I found out that there is no special preload at all, just the spring size minus 1/2 cm so they don't move
so preload on these springs is bull****
the front springs are shorter then the rear but you can compensate with the coil adjustment
just copy the none preload from the front to the rear
now I have 20kg front and 20kg rear
test drive tomorrow
The following users liked this post:
HgoAMG (04-23-2018)
#2
result is absolutely amazing, feels really strong now reminding me a Impreza, crazy for a heavy car
if you look up to the whole removal process yellow is giving in the manual, forget it
just note the length you need before mounting the back, then make your coil spring as short as possible
push down the wheel like on the picture (don't push down more then needed) , fix the top mount, extend your coil spring back to your desired length
done
don't forget, lower your car as you want, but when you accelerate, the front of the car should not go up much
that means the back is too low. most know this of course
Read my posts before you go into the wrong direction with DAS / Xentry Diagnostics
__________________________________________________ ___________________________
Want to talk live ? Please install Skype and hit the little S (skype button) under my Username or just PM me
if you look up to the whole removal process yellow is giving in the manual, forget it
just note the length you need before mounting the back, then make your coil spring as short as possible
push down the wheel like on the picture (don't push down more then needed) , fix the top mount, extend your coil spring back to your desired length
done
don't forget, lower your car as you want, but when you accelerate, the front of the car should not go up much
that means the back is too low. most know this of course
Read my posts before you go into the wrong direction with DAS / Xentry Diagnostics
__________________________________________________ ___________________________
Want to talk live ? Please install Skype and hit the little S (skype button) under my Username or just PM me
Last edited by pmercury; 01-15-2020 at 09:23 AM.
The following 2 users liked this post by pmercury:
HgoAMG (04-23-2018),
Puerto Rick (03-23-2018)
#5
Junior Member
I am not happy at all with the rear coil springs from yellowspeed
as they don't sell 20kg springs I decided to buy a whole second set and convert myself
a pro in the UK can make you custom springs but I would have to send him the whole coil overs and that was close to a whole new set's price
so wt*
they come with 14kg rear and 20kg front
after all the work I found out that there is no special preload at all, just the spring size minus 1/2 cm so they don't move
so preload on these springs is bull****
the front springs are shorter then the rear but you can compensate with the coil adjustment
just copy the none preload from the front to the rear
now I have 20kg front and 20kg rear
test drive tomorrow
as they don't sell 20kg springs I decided to buy a whole second set and convert myself
a pro in the UK can make you custom springs but I would have to send him the whole coil overs and that was close to a whole new set's price
so wt*
they come with 14kg rear and 20kg front
after all the work I found out that there is no special preload at all, just the spring size minus 1/2 cm so they don't move
so preload on these springs is bull****
the front springs are shorter then the rear but you can compensate with the coil adjustment
just copy the none preload from the front to the rear
now I have 20kg front and 20kg rear
test drive tomorrow
Did you fit your anti roll bar ? . I've not done mine yet . I'm doing it in couple weeks . The rear of my car feels horrible at high speeds even on straight roads . Bounces all over the place so first is fitting roll bar then get the springs sorted
#6
i received 20 front and 16 rear for my cl600. So are you saying I need to adjust the rear springs so it's the same length as the front springs?
Did you fit your anti roll bar ? . I've not done mine yet . I'm doing it in couple weeks . The rear of my car feels horrible at high speeds even on straight roads . Bounces all over the place so first is fitting roll bar then get the springs sorted
Did you fit your anti roll bar ? . I've not done mine yet . I'm doing it in couple weeks . The rear of my car feels horrible at high speeds even on straight roads . Bounces all over the place so first is fitting roll bar then get the springs sorted
I have it complete but no time
you measure your rear suspension before dissembling
then just mount the 20kg spring, so with a preload of -0.5 cm, then extend the suspension to previous length you had
once again, it is FANTASTIC sportive driving with 20kg rear ! that might be the cause I didn't speed mounting the rear sway bar as it feels it doesn't need one anymore
The following users liked this post:
HgoAMG (04-23-2018)
Trending Topics
#10
I was in discussion with them but for optimal springs they prefer you send out the whole coilspring
but they can with just the measurements
300£ a pair
http://www.coilsprings.co.uk/
#13
These can
I was in discussion with them but for optimal springs they prefer you send out the whole coilspring
but they can with just the measurements
300£ a pair
http://www.coilsprings.co.uk/
I was in discussion with them but for optimal springs they prefer you send out the whole coilspring
but they can with just the measurements
300£ a pair
http://www.coilsprings.co.uk/
I found the conversation
1 car set will cost £260 plus vat. DELIVERED. 4/5 WEEKS FROM RECEIPT OF BANCS TRANSFER.
so that is all 4 custom
very cheap
The following users liked this post:
HgoAMG (04-23-2018)
#16
these people are extremely serious, fast and specialists
they heve realistic prices
UK has always been the best for that
to recommend to all europeen car fanatics
please let me know what you think about rear 20 kg 😜
they heve realistic prices
UK has always been the best for that
to recommend to all europeen car fanatics
please let me know what you think about rear 20 kg 😜
Last edited by pmercury; 02-13-2018 at 03:07 PM.
The following users liked this post:
HgoAMG (04-23-2018)
#17
Junior Member
I was just checking . I have been emailing them and they are happy to make me a pair . They are going to copy my front springs . But it means my cl will be off the road for a month minus a front spring . I have spoken to a few people in the car performance scene and they all agree that stiffer rear springs is the only way to go to stop the sloppy rear end . So I'm Defo going for the 20kg upgrade. I will let you know what I think when I've tried them out . Cheers for all the advice you have given me again .
#18
Member
You mentioned you have the rear sway bar ready to install. Do you have to change the subframe to a W220 piece? Will the aluminum w220 sub-frame work with a CL55AMG? I am new to this and working to get all of the pieces together for my conversion. So far I have the Power Steering pump from and airmatic S class, Front Sway bar and lower control arms from the same S class. i am waiting to get under my car to see if there are unused sway bar mounts on my subframe before i get the rear sway bar parts.
Thanks!
Rick
Thanks!
Rick
#20
Member
Thanks,
Rick
#21
Member
I was able to get the car up in the air and the sub-frame does have sway bar mounting tabs. No sub-frame swap needed. i still couldn't see where the sway bar links mount to the trailing arms. I will be gathering the parts to do the install and keep posting on the progress.
Sway Bar Mount on rear subframe 03 CL55 AMG
Sway Bar Mount on rear subframe 03 CL55 AMG
#22
Member
#23
1) sway bars are not necessary with 20kg rear springs but will certainly make the situation better
2) I hope you are right about not lowering the sub frame, I have the complete rear sway bar set but not mounted yet, I think you are dreaming getting that bar behind the sub frame
try and tell me
2) I hope you are right about not lowering the sub frame, I have the complete rear sway bar set but not mounted yet, I think you are dreaming getting that bar behind the sub frame
try and tell me
#24
Member
1) sway bars are not necessary with 20kg rear springs but will certainly make the situation better
I am interested in the ride quality with these springs. I see you recommend them. what i am looking for is a nice ride but not too firm. you mentioned that with the original springs it was bottoming out. Since you have done both springs what are your thoughts on ride quality with the stiffer springs.
2) I hope you are right about not lowering the sub frame, I have the complete rear sway bar set but not mounted yet, I think you are dreaming getting that bar behind the sub frame
try and tell me
I am interested in the ride quality with these springs. I see you recommend them. what i am looking for is a nice ride but not too firm. you mentioned that with the original springs it was bottoming out. Since you have done both springs what are your thoughts on ride quality with the stiffer springs.
2) I hope you are right about not lowering the sub frame, I have the complete rear sway bar set but not mounted yet, I think you are dreaming getting that bar behind the sub frame
try and tell me
I am new to this. Sorry about any confusion or misinformation. My plan is to document and post as I go. I always wanted to own this car. This forum is awesome and has taken the fear out of owning these cars. So far using this forum, I have fixed the trunk latch air leak, (working on the hydraulic arm raising), sunroof sync., window sync, key fob batteries, cowl vent water leak (when it rains), ABC to Coilover swap the right way, and lots of info on upgrades. i cant say enough about how great this community is.
Thanks Again!
Rick
#25
I do plan on lowering the sub-frame to gut out all of the ABC lines and installing the bar. From what i have read the lines are in the way of the bar. What i meant is that i don't have to change the sub-frame to an S class unit. I still don't exactly know where the links mount up to the arms. Any ideas?
I am new to this. Sorry about any confusion or misinformation. My plan is to document and post as I go. I always wanted to own this car. This forum is awesome and has taken the fear out of owning these cars. So far using this forum, I have fixed the trunk latch air leak, (working on the hydraulic arm raising), sunroof sync., window sync, key fob batteries, cowl vent water leak (when it rains), ABC to Coilover swap the right way, and lots of info on upgrades. i cant say enough about how great this community is.
Thanks Again!
Rick
I am new to this. Sorry about any confusion or misinformation. My plan is to document and post as I go. I always wanted to own this car. This forum is awesome and has taken the fear out of owning these cars. So far using this forum, I have fixed the trunk latch air leak, (working on the hydraulic arm raising), sunroof sync., window sync, key fob batteries, cowl vent water leak (when it rains), ABC to Coilover swap the right way, and lots of info on upgrades. i cant say enough about how great this community is.
Thanks Again!
Rick
then buy bolts from MB and put it under the subframe
you do not need to use the center part that originally connects to a sensor