When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hello. I’m new to this forum just seeing if anyone has some advice for me. My T intake is cracked at the turbo side of it and is not sealing properly. I need a new intake and really don’t want to buy one from mb. Does anyone have any aftermarket recommendations or diy fixes? It loooks like someone has tightened it too much and just over the years has gotten brittle and is now bit the bullet. Thanks in advance. 2008 ml320
Sorry it is a 2008. No I am talking about the plastic air intake. Where the red seal is the plastic has deteriorated and is all cracked and missing peices
Sorry it is a 2008. No I am talking about the plastic air intake. Where the red seal is the plastic has deteriorated and is all cracked and missing peices
Pretty sure he is referring to the pos air intake from the filters to the turbo. Once the plastic pieces crack around the silicone seal it is done. I used heavy duct tape until my new one arrived since I needed my truck for hauling. Hopefully this helps. Good luck
Sorry it is a 2008. No I am talking about the plastic air intake. Where the red seal is the plastic has deteriorated and is all cracked and missing peices
These things are pricey because they have the two MAF sensors built in. I agree with mRaposo. Bits flying into your turbo impeller when it's spinning at 20,000 rpm never ends well.
I'd advise you replace the orange silicone sealing gasket at the same time. If these things crack, oil will drip into base of the "V", tricking you into an expensive, and maybe not needed replacement of the oil cooler seals (don't ask). Here's a cheaper source: https://www.idparts.com/intake-hose-...37-p-5223.html
I have an ML320 with an OM642 engine, the air intake manifold is cracked just before it joins the turbo and hence I have an oil leak here. I am contemplating using a silicone pipe to connect the air intake to the turbo and clamping at both ends which will eliminate the need to have a flimsy red seal at the turbo end. This silicone pipe will be clamped at both ends. I will tap in a self seal breather fitting with a barb connection to the silicone hose to enable the PCV valve hose connect into the system. Does anybody have this solution done and would such a setup work? I feel that the red seal is impossible to dry and this is why I am opting for the silicone hose.
Hi,
I have the same problem with oil leaks on my wife's '08 ML320 CDI. Dealer said right away (after charging my wife hundreds of dollars for code readout and just looking) that it's the engine oil cooler gaskets. Was asking around 3500$ canadian to fix it.
So I did it myself and installed the new purple Viton seals.
No leaks for over a year. Now wife said it's leaking again.
I am pretty sure, after lots of research, that if I did a good job and can rule out the oil cooler gaskets being the culprit again, there is a good chance it's the PCV valve and/or the orange seals on plastic Y-air-intake that hooks up to the turbo.
I am thinking that instead of changing those garbage seals everytime it starts leaking, or buying a new plastic Y-intake if it breaks, it would be great if I could find a solution that works better.
I came across these 2 websites from Germany that sell a silicone T-pipe to replace the orange seals.
You will have to modify the plastic Y-intake (cut a bit off, to make it fit). Would be the perfect time for somebody with a cracked Y-intake to try. I have seen one post on a different forum where somebody did something similar.
Don't remember where I've seen it.
I am still debating if I should:
buy and install that silicone T-pipe
or
buy a Mann Provent 200 catch can and install it with that silicone T-pipe
or
buy a Mann Provent 200 catch can and install a straight silicone boot from plastic Y-intake and re-route the air/oil mixture coming from the PCV valve away from the turbo inlet ( which will keep the air intake clean and fix the leaky seal problem).
Something to keep in mind is to make sure that your air filters are clean. If they clog up and it gets harder for the engine to get the air it needs it will suck more air/oil mixture out of the engine through the pcv valve (especially if it's not working proper or broken) and this way leak more oil out of a worn turbo inlet seal or cracked Y-intake.
Still in the process of doing my research on what's best.
Im just in the process of 'upgrading' mine. Im buying a 3" to 2.5" silicon intake reducer. Turbo is 60 mm and batwing is 70 mm right where it is welded on. Will cut off plastic prior to the weld. For the PVC i will ream a hole in reducer and force barbed pvc fitting in hole. going to go slow so I don't make it too big. Might throw a little silicone sealer around this. Been battling this leak for a long time. Swirl motor quit and I just finished resistor bypass which fixed limp mode.
So I installed the reducer. Kept it at length it came. To install the PVC hose I reamed the hole just large enough to force the fitting thru. Very tight fit, no clamping needed. I mounted the reducer onto the plastic first as I wanted to make sure the hose clamp was directly over the thickest part of the plastic and was sealing good. Next I slid it onto the turbo . You may need to adjust the downward direction of how it is clamped onto plastic to aid in turbo alignment. All in all very happy with this mod.
pre fit test PVC hose install Another view Installed pix 1 Installed pix 2
So I installed the reducer. Kept it at length it came. To install the PVC hose I reamed the hole just large enough to force the fitting thru. Very tight fit, no clamping needed. I mounted the reducer onto the plastic first as I wanted to make sure the hose clamp was directly over the thickest part of the plastic and was sealing good. Next I slid it onto the turbo . You may need to adjust the downward direction of how it is clamped onto plastic to aid in turbo alignment. All in all very happy with this mod.
pre fit test PVC hose install Another view Installed pix 1 Installed pix 2
You are my personal hero!!!
This is exactly the issue I am facing right now, and am going to do exactly what you did. My only question is, how did you drill that hole in the silicone hose. What exactly did you use?
You are my personal hero!!!
This is exactly the issue I am facing right now, and am going to do exactly what you did. My only question is, how did you drill that hole in the silicone hose. What exactly did you use?
I think I just used one of those tapered reamer bits. I just forced it into silicone till it made small hole . I then just kept reaming and test fitting the plastic adapter. Mine is really tight when I pushed it in. I didn't want it to leak. I think you can sense where your at because silicone hose doesn't bunch up much when putting adapter in
Hello. I’m new to this forum just seeing if anyone has some advice for me. My T intake is cracked at the turbo side of it and is not sealing properly. I need a new intake and really don’t want to buy one from mb. Does anyone have any aftermarket recommendations or diy fixes? It loooks like someone has tightened it too much and just over the years has gotten brittle and is now bit the bullet. Thanks in advance. 2008 ml320
I have just replaced mine . I called MB BUT they WE didnt have in country and the price was ridiculously expensive.. I sourced the product LANDED for 1/4 of the MB price from AliExpress .(part of Alibaba) Quick friendly and professional online shopping experience . There were many suppliers to choose from and I can reccomend LOREADA The product arrived in secure packaging and works perfectly. Very satisfied.
Hope this helps
Last edited by Geoff ten Oever; 06-16-2021 at 12:21 AM.
07-22-2018, 12:03 AM
