Crank sensor ?? Starting issue E55
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Crank sensor ?? Starting issue E55
05 E55 , having an odd starting issue . Leaning towards the common crank sensor and or a starter . What's happening is only on hot restarts 20mins + of driving (never done it cold) when you turn the key there's a solid 3 sec. delay , just stalemate before it starts to crank .
It always starts first try , never had to turn the key back and try again yet . Car runs fine once running . Its due for plugs and wires, wires are original 113k ,I know unrelated but surely not helping . Any insight is appreciated .
It always starts first try , never had to turn the key back and try again yet . Car runs fine once running . Its due for plugs and wires, wires are original 113k ,I know unrelated but surely not helping . Any insight is appreciated .
Last edited by SilverE5588; 01-19-2019 at 01:04 PM.
#2
Senior Member
Solder joints that are sketchy are closed (make contact) when cold. When they warm up, they open. Sounds like the CPS (or a relay). Crank and cam sensors should be R&R'd , especially on a older or high mileage car.
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Yeah going ahead and ordering a crank sensor , assuming bosch is very close to oem ? or oem is a relabeled bosch @ the 100 dollar difference . Fuel pump relay you mean ?
#5
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I prefer the oem if you drive long distances , since the crank sensor can leave you stranded.
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E63 Biturbo, UPD Cold Air induction kit, UPD performance crank pulley and UPD adjustable rear suspension with ride height adjustment.
CL55 UPD Cold Air Boost kit, UPD 3000 stall converter, UPD 77mm SC clutched pulley and beltwrap kit, Custom long tubes, UPD crank pulley , UPD suspension kit, UPD SC pulley, Aux. HE, Trunk tank w/rule 2000 pump, Mezeire pump, UPD 5pc idler set, Aluminum rotor hats.
www.ultimatepd.com
instagram @ultimate_pd
facebook.com/ultimatepd
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Yes I was thinking the same on the oem . Thanks . Will try the cps to start as a benchmark and see how it goes
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#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Got an oem cps coming , seeing some variables with the fuel pump relay - trying to order one now . Getting some contradicting #'s. For an 05 E55 anyone happen to have the part # (s). Assuming its just the one relay in the pass. rear quarter panel. Keeps giving me one for the front for some reason on mb part sites.
#9
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'99 and '05 E55 AMG
2005 E55 fuel pump relay cross-references:
MB 002-542-72-19
Hella 4RA 007 791-011
Hella 007791011
Bosch 0 332 019 103
Tyco VF4-11F11-S01
Replacement relay socket:
Hella H84989011
Terminals (purchased locally but available through mouser.com):
10-12 gauge 0.250” (6.3mm) female, quick-disconnect, non-insulated with locking tab
14-16 gauge 0.250” (6.3mm) female, quick-disconnect, non-insulated with locking tab
Note: the relay coil ground wire is 18 gauge and must be doubled over to use the 14-16 ga terminal.
MB 002-542-72-19
Hella 4RA 007 791-011
Hella 007791011
Bosch 0 332 019 103
Tyco VF4-11F11-S01
Replacement relay socket:
Hella H84989011
Terminals (purchased locally but available through mouser.com):
10-12 gauge 0.250” (6.3mm) female, quick-disconnect, non-insulated with locking tab
14-16 gauge 0.250” (6.3mm) female, quick-disconnect, non-insulated with locking tab
Note: the relay coil ground wire is 18 gauge and must be doubled over to use the 14-16 ga terminal.
#10
Senior Member
Thread Starter
2005 E55 fuel pump relay cross-references:
MB 002-542-72-19
Hella 4RA 007 791-011
Hella 007791011
Bosch 0 332 019 103
Tyco VF4-11F11-S01
Replacement relay socket:
Hella H84989011
Terminals (purchased locally but available through mouser.com):
10-12 gauge 0.250” (6.3mm) female, quick-disconnect, non-insulated with locking tab
14-16 gauge 0.250” (6.3mm) female, quick-disconnect, non-insulated with locking tab
Note: the relay coil ground wire is 18 gauge and must be doubled over to use the 14-16 ga terminal.
MB 002-542-72-19
Hella 4RA 007 791-011
Hella 007791011
Bosch 0 332 019 103
Tyco VF4-11F11-S01
Replacement relay socket:
Hella H84989011
Terminals (purchased locally but available through mouser.com):
10-12 gauge 0.250” (6.3mm) female, quick-disconnect, non-insulated with locking tab
14-16 gauge 0.250” (6.3mm) female, quick-disconnect, non-insulated with locking tab
Note: the relay coil ground wire is 18 gauge and must be doubled over to use the 14-16 ga terminal.
#11
Member
Replacing the crank sensor isn't a bad idea ( OEM only, though; they're not expensive). However that definitely wont fix your problem. Neither will any fuel pump related repairs. If you had either one of those problems, the car would crank but not start. (Same with a cam sensor problem.)
You need to check for codes (MB SDS) and actually diagnose the problem before throwing parts at it, otherwise you are just wasting time and money.
You need to check for codes (MB SDS) and actually diagnose the problem before throwing parts at it, otherwise you are just wasting time and money.
#12
Replacing the crank sensor isn't a bad idea ( OEM only, though; they're not expensive). However that definitely wont fix your problem. Neither will any fuel pump related repairs. If you had either one of those problems, the car would crank but not start. (Same with a cam sensor problem.)
You need to check for codes (MB SDS) and actually diagnose the problem before throwing parts at it, otherwise you are just wasting time and money.
You need to check for codes (MB SDS) and actually diagnose the problem before throwing parts at it, otherwise you are just wasting time and money.
#13
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Yeah on getting the car scanned. Since the cps is likely due anyways , i'll replace it to eliminate . I had a feeling it could be a starter.. Thanks for the insight guys
#14
Member
Starter is a possibility but they dont usually fail then start working that predictably so I really doubt the starter is your issue. Easy enough to stick a voltmeter on the starter positive cable to test it though... It sounds more like a DAS problem (drive authorization system) ie key, EZS (ignition switch), steering lock, etc. Are you using the key in the ignition switch or keyless go? (A bad brake light switch can cause similar issues but only with keyless go.)
#15
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Yes always when using the key - don't use keyless go usually . Yeah weird how it's been predictable , maybe good actually so I know if what I replace has made a change. But yes going to get it scanned etc. within a week or 2 .
#17
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Yeah , I have another key I can try using just to see for giggles .Is Starter r&r a pain on these if it is that , some exhaust removal reqd. ?
#18
Member
For now, definitely try the other key. In my experience, keys are usually all or nothing (once a key doesn't work, it never works) but it's very easy to check so definitely worthwhile. Also try a new key battery. The key should still work to start the car with a dead battery (there is a coil in the EZS that induces power in the key to power up the transponder chip even if the key battery is dead or removed), however, if there is a problem with the EZS, a weak/dead key battery could cause this issue.
#19
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Gotcha thanks for all the info, appreciate it .Yeah i'm not going to get ahead of myself and replace the starter etc. , for now im going to replace the crank sensor with a new oem , and a different key with a good batt. Take it from there and see. Ill update the thread once I free up some time to work on it . Thanks again
#20
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Update , replaced crank sensor and tried a different key. Issue has let to happen again , looking like it was maybe just the cps .
#21
MBWorld Fanatic!
OP as has been mentioned above NO SENSOR can make the starter not work. Thus; while replacing that CPS is good practice (and I gently suggest you keep another + the needed tool to replace it in the trunk) don't expect this to cure any issue with the starter not operating. Fun part about it being intermittent is that any and all testing is folly unless the dumb thing is doing it as you test.
Best test for that starter you ask? I'll bite. Wire up a 12volt incandescent 35 watt headlight such that one end of a wire is grounded and the other when 12 volts is applied to it lights up the headlight. Why such a big bulb? We want to actually test that the circuit that turns on the starter is capable of delivering enough amps to wake the starter every time. A voltmeter will lead you on a wild goose chase as it shows 12 volts but there isn't enough amps There to operate the circuit.
This friends is why that fancy DVOM toy is mostly useful for verifying that the alternator is in fact making 14 volts.
Same test applies for 'is power making it to the fuel pump' among others.
Best test for that starter you ask? I'll bite. Wire up a 12volt incandescent 35 watt headlight such that one end of a wire is grounded and the other when 12 volts is applied to it lights up the headlight. Why such a big bulb? We want to actually test that the circuit that turns on the starter is capable of delivering enough amps to wake the starter every time. A voltmeter will lead you on a wild goose chase as it shows 12 volts but there isn't enough amps There to operate the circuit.
This friends is why that fancy DVOM toy is mostly useful for verifying that the alternator is in fact making 14 volts.
Same test applies for 'is power making it to the fuel pump' among others.
#22
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I agree JohnLane. I am going to drive the car all this week , so if it happens again i'll be looking into the starter circuit etc. for sure . Key and cps have made a difference though , quicker crisper starts . Will see how it goes .
#23
MBWorld Fanatic!
Also worth noting.... I have seen cooked positive battery cable right there at the starter... The insulation comes off... Copper gets corroded and crunchy. If this is an issue you'll get an audible 'click' from the starter as the solenoid operates with slow cranking as the battery cable is not able to pass enough amps to crank.
#24
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Also worth noting.... I have seen cooked positive battery cable right there at the starter... The insulation comes off... Copper gets corroded and crunchy. If this is an issue you'll get an audible 'click' from the starter as the solenoid operates with slow cranking as the battery cable is not able to pass enough amps to crank.
#25
Member
Is the starter cable your talking about the one below , this one I did find corroded & bad for sure . Will be replacing it this week. Could have been causing my issue above . Have not driven the car much lately , but crank sensor did not make a difference - did not expect it to.