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Quick question. I have had problems with oil loss for quite some time now. No visible leaks so the loss is due to it being burned away somehow. I have changed the crankcase breather on the back passenger side (that part had seen better days), and I know that this particular part can give you oil loss when its bad, however I am still losing quite a bit of oil, so I Wonder if changing the part on the pictures attached would make any change? Some other dude posted a picture of the inside of the part on the forum and I expected it to look more advanced on the inside. I do not see any visible leaks from outside the part on my car. What is this parts function vs the crankcase brather on the back passenger side. This wasnt a quick question after all
if you are losing quantities of oil and there are no visible leaks one has to assume that the oil is being burnt in combustion----get a compression test or live wit it
Look inside your intake plenum for lost quarts. The engine is producing abnormal amount of vaporized oil and ingesting it through dirty valves.
What oil are you using ??
Concider using greater viscosity to prevent burning oil black into lost vapors.
At the end if the day, this issue is mostly not caused by the PCV itself or leaky rings. It's just mismatched oil whatever type you happen to be using.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 06-18-2024 at 03:55 PM.
Look inside your intake plenum for lost quarts. The engine is producing abnormal amount of vaporized oil and ingesting it through dirty valves.
What oil are you using ??
Concider using greater viscosity to prevent burning oil black into lost vapors.
At the end if the day, this issue is mostly not caused by the PCV itself or leaky rings. It's just mismatched oil whatever type you happen to be using.
You've had this problem too? The oil I use is 0w-40 which is whats reccomended for this engine according to my mecanic which I trust. I live in Norway where the temperature can be pretty cold in the winter.
You've had this problem too? The oil I use is 0w-40 which is whats reccomended for this engine according to my mecanic which I trust. I live in Norway where the temperature can be pretty cold in the winter.
I'd suggest reviewing your owners manual for acceptable viscosity for your climate
It's in german so I don't understand what it says, but I found this picture. It CAN get colder than -20 in the winter, but that is not often.
This diagram does not mean what it looks like... available oil grades... NOT all MB suitable!!
It shows oils vs. climates.
Your engine needs very specific "MB Approved oil" only.
Ask your car specialist to switch your oil from a 0w40 oil to a 5w40 oil and change it early when it becomes black or 5000.Mi.
This diagram does not mean what it looks like... available oil grades... NOT all MB suitable!!
It shows oils vs. climates.
Your engine needs very specific "MB Approved oil" only.
Ask your car specialist to switch your oil from a 0w40 oil to a 5w40 oil and change it early when it becomes black or 5000.Mi.
how much thicker is 5w40 vs 0w40? And why not for example 5w50? will this be a temporary fix, or can the thin oil be the main cause of my problem?
any additives I should add before changing the oil?
how much thicker is 5w40 vs 0w40?
And why not for example 5w50?
will this be a temporary fix, or can the thin oil be the main cause of my problem?
any additives I should add before changing the oil?
It is the thin oil that limits your engine cooling.
Engine then gets too hot and burns the oil into extra thin lubricant that cools even less and burns even more.
Additives are not recommended because they can be either useless or too aggressive in cleaning the engine and disturb hardened seals.
5w50 is not on this motor approved list. Its more of a heavy racing oil type with solid heat viscosity.
Thin W40 oil rapidly degrade to become W35 unable to get your engine hydraulics working well. Tensioners get affected.
VVT Gears position surges.
HPFP prop. valve gets lost.
Thin oil is not engine friendly.
0w40 is on the lower side of 5w40 that is a little better for a while until enough viscosity is lost then it also becomes a 0w35.... change your oil to prevent thin oil issues!!!
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 06-19-2024 at 01:55 PM.
It is the thin oil that limits your engine cooling.
Engine then gets too hot and burns the oil into extra thin lubricant that cools even less and burns even more.
Additives are not recommended because they can be either useless or too aggressive in cleaning the engine and disturb hardened seals.
5w50 is not on this motor approved list. Its more of a heavy racing oil type with solid heat viscosity.
Thin W40 oil rapidly degrade to become W35 unable to get your engine hydraulics working well. Tensioners get affected.
VVT Gears position surges.
HPFP prop. valve gets lost.
Thin oil is not engine friendly.
0w40 is on the lower side of 5w40 that is a little better for a while until enough viscosity is lost then it also becomes a 0w35.... change your oil to prevent thin oil issues!!!
Doesn't 0w40 and 5w40 have the same viscosity at operating temperatures? I have never noticed my engine getting too hot when driving. About 90 degrees celsius operating temperature
Doesn't 0w40 and 5w40 have the same viscosity at operating temperatures?
I have never noticed my engine getting too hot when driving.
About 90 degrees celsius operating temperature
This is a very central question for your ownership experience.
You believe w40 oils share equal runtime viscosity and likely cooling abilities... I used to believe the same but it is more complex
The first cold number is actually a different measure than the warm second one. It's the ability to flow at start temperature. So nice to know cold oil has multigrade. 👏
Actually the cold temp factor also modifies the second one. Meaning a 0w40 viscosity tapers sooner than a 5w40: BIG DIFFERENCE!
The W40 relates to the viscosity range from 40 to 49. We should call this the 40's range. Most oils in this range are near w41.5 and fewer are W45 or greater.
What you don't want is to drive your engine on an old thinned w35 oil. It will be left unable to cool itself well with burned oil.
Our engine really needs a 10W45 oil to prevent black oil and extreme heat issues. That pil would be called 10w40 even though it is a 10w45... got to look at specs!
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 06-20-2024 at 01:32 AM.
I've changed this part. The old one was bad and I thought it would help, however I have not changed the PCV part that goes om the driver side cylinder head. No blue smoke
This is a very central question for your ownership experience.
You believe w40 oils share equal runtime viscosity and likely cooling abilities... I used to believe the same but it is more complex
The first cold number is actually a different measure than the warm second one. It's the ability to flow at start temperature. So nice to know cold oil has multigrade. 👏
Actually the cold temp factor also modifies the second one. Meaning a 0w40 viscosity tapers sooner than a 5w40: BIG DIFFERENCE!
The W40 relates to the viscosity range from 40 to 49. We should call this the 40's range. Most oils in this range are near w41.5 and fewer are W45 or greater.
What you don't want is to drive your engine on an old thinned w35 oil. It will be left unable to cool itself well with burned oil.
Our engine really needs a 10W45 oil to prevent black oil and extreme heat issues. That pil would be called 10w40 even though it is a 10w45... got to look at specs!
I've read that 90 degrees celsius for this engine is totally fine? I will try a new thicker oil next time I change the oil!
Quick question. I have had problems with oil loss for quite some time now. No visible leaks so the loss is due to it being burned away somehow. I have changed the crankcase breather on the back passenger side (that part had seen better days), and I know that this particular part can give you oil loss when its bad, however I am still losing quite a bit of oil, so I Wonder if changing the part on the pictures attached would make any change? Some other dude posted a picture of the inside of the part on the forum and I expected it to look more advanced on the inside. I do not see any visible leaks from outside the part on my car. What is this parts function vs the crankcase brather on the back passenger side. This wasnt a quick question after all
There is another common problem that happens to here engine, mainly due to the insane extended oil change intervals. With 0w-40 Mobil 1, which is closer to a 5w-30 than 40, should be changed no more than 6k. What happens over time, because of the two stage oil pressure strategy, the piston cooling doesn’t come on, pistons get hot extended oil change, and piston oil rings get clogged cause excess oil consumption. Yes the pcv doesn’t help any. But if you are consuming more than a liter every 5k, that is your issue.
Every car line with extended oil change 10k or more, they see this. Four cylinder engines are the worst. Unfortunately the fix is not easy nor cheap.And flushing will damage bearing surfaces in heads.
But get a qualified tech to investigate. Borescope can reveal much.and if that looks good, then repair pcv and walnut blast intake valves.
06-18-2024, 08:29 AM
