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Hi!
This seem like something that would be common, but I may be using the wrong search strings because I wasn't able to find a post where someone has this problem. I just wanna know the best way to DIY this. Online research suggests things like glues, double sided tapes, etc. Is there something specific for us? Currently leaning towards double-sided tape.
refit the bit hanging off in the pic ?
fit whole new seal ?
most modern cars (last 20 years) have very durable seals that fit in a channel - and they should still be very supple, get some silicone spray lube up the seal and the channel - and without ever stretching it lay about where it sits, and just wiggle it back in the channel - the silicone will allow it to slip into place and you shouldn't need tools
when in correctly it should be a robust enough fit to flex back and forth so you can see its in correctly on both sides of the channel
if baggy you need to go back and redo the bit you did encouraging it to compress in length a bit
some cars can be a bugger, but I've not had a bad one since the recall to do the RR Sliver Spirit door seal upgrade mod - that was utter hell - but that was circa 1981
It fits on the channel like Botus said. I can be very difficult go get back on and seated...look very carefully at the part that is still on the channel. The end of it is attached with some adhesive silicon. I just did this on my car when I replaced the seal. BTW, you too can buy your own seal from MB for $6100.
The correct partnumber for a W221 up to early 2009 should be
A2217310780
which costs ~ $200
Yah, I've got a CL550, so the $6000 part was for me. I bought my part for $200 used from Germany. I will say though that once new old stock inventory gets to very low levels, MB jacks up the price to hostage negotiation levels, and a $6000 seal is likely coming for your W221. I bought a window rail seal for my CL a couple years back for $167. I think current price is $7000.
Yesterday, 03:23 PM
