mos550

I was hoping this will be a simple task, yet here I am.

2011 S550 Mercedes Base, 132K miles. finally front left Airmatic Strut leaked air while driving 45 miles per hour. Quiet an experience to see suspension drop on left side.

I am attempting to replace the Airmatic Strut. All was going well until I am unable to "Separate the Joint". Required step to easily remove and install the strut.

So Far done the following:
1. Lite Hammering
2. Joint Separator Tool borrowed from AutoZone.
3. Joint Separator Tool plus Lite Hammering
4. WD40
5. Balance both sides to have equal height.

Attached pictures shows current state with Separator Tool. I can probably turn 3 or 4 times applying some extra force when turning. I am worried it may cause damage.

Only thing I have not done is to Pull a Crazy on it with hammering.

still no Go.

I can use some help / suggestions .

Thank you in advance.







Thank You.

ygmn

IS car jacked up off the wheels?
so suspension is unloaded?

Then I just get my BFH and hit the side of the lower member that the nut was against. I bang inline and then on sides alternating after a few whacks on each.
I also leave nut on, so it does not fall off and hit me like you show in pics.

If the BFH does not work I go and dig out my ball joint fork and put that in there and more whacks.

your tool looks interesting but the bolt angle seems steep so I would remove and relocate the hinge bolt to the upper so this bolt for applying pressure is more perpendicular to the lower moveable arm that squeezes out the joint.

this is one you have to keep trying and get larger and larger BFH - no dead blows here as you need the shock from a metal-on-metal hit to break it loose from the taper.

ps when you do get it out go take a break and have a beer for job milestone done.

streborx

These suspension joints with tapered fittings are a b***h to separate. I had to replace the steering damper on my Jeep last year, and conducted the same rituals trying to break the tapered pin free. Finally a BFH did the deed. Have you tried a heat gun (not a torch!)? Sometimes that's enough to break the bond. Be sure to shield the surrounding components with something like a welding blanket.
I assume one of the separating tools you've already tried is a tapered fork?

Baltistyle

My suggestion would be to put the nut back on so that the threads are even with the outside (bootom, fully threaded but not sticking out past the nut) of the nut. This gives you more surface area for the tool to work with and you won’t Dave the threads. slide the tool out so that the edge of the tool is on the nut and just start cranking and it will eventually break free. my suggestion would be at least an 18 inch breaker bar or flexible 1/2 in ratchet if you have it. Basically create a bigger lever with the tool and use something long to multiply your force. I’ve literally broken these tools by hand in the past. The hammer is a good tip. The release is violent.

mos550

Thank you for the reply and your suggestion.

Front wheels are jacked up on each side.

I will try your suggestions and report back.

ygmn

support car by frame so wheels hang down and load is off any joint.

do not support by any part attached to tire that would compress suspension when lowered onto jack stands.

And they make many sizes of BFH -
HArbor freight is your friend here: 2-4lbs hammers - They call em Engineer or drilling hammers for some reason.
Lowes Depot has em too.