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I was hoping this will be a simple task, yet here I am.
2011 S550 Mercedes Base, 132K miles. finally front left Airmatic Strut leaked air while driving 45 miles per hour. Quiet an experience to see suspension drop on left side.
I am attempting to replace the Airmatic Strut. All was going well until I am unable to "Separate the Joint". Required step to easily remove and install the strut.
So Far done the following:
1. Lite Hammering
2. Joint Separator Tool borrowed from AutoZone.
3. Joint Separator Tool plus Lite Hammering
4. WD40
5. Balance both sides to have equal height.
Attached pictures shows current state with Separator Tool. I can probably turn 3 or 4 times applying some extra force when turning. I am worried it may cause damage.
Only thing I have not done is to Pull a Crazy on it with hammering.
IS car jacked up off the wheels?
so suspension is unloaded?
Then I just get my BFH and hit the side of the lower member that the nut was against. I bang inline and then on sides alternating after a few whacks on each.
I also leave nut on, so it does not fall off and hit me like you show in pics.
If the BFH does not work I go and dig out my ball joint fork and put that in there and more whacks.
your tool looks interesting but the bolt angle seems steep so I would remove and relocate the hinge bolt to the upper so this bolt for applying pressure is more perpendicular to the lower moveable arm that squeezes out the joint.
this is one you have to keep trying and get larger and larger BFH - no dead blows here as you need the shock from a metal-on-metal hit to break it loose from the taper.
ps when you do get it out go take a break and have a beer for job milestone done.
These suspension joints with tapered fittings are a b***h to separate. I had to replace the steering damper on my Jeep last year, and conducted the same rituals trying to break the tapered pin free. Finally a BFH did the deed. Have you tried a heat gun (not a torch!)? Sometimes that's enough to break the bond. Be sure to shield the surrounding components with something like a welding blanket.
I assume one of the separating tools you've already tried is a tapered fork?
Last edited by streborx; Aug 31, 2024 at 08:43 AM.
My suggestion would be to put the nut back on so that the threads are even with the outside (bootom, fully threaded but not sticking out past the nut) of the nut. This gives you more surface area for the tool to work with and you won’t Dave the threads. slide the tool out so that the edge of the tool is on the nut and just start cranking and it will eventually break free. my suggestion would be at least an 18 inch breaker bar or flexible 1/2 in ratchet if you have it. Basically create a bigger lever with the tool and use something long to multiply your force. I’ve literally broken these tools by hand in the past. The hammer is a good tip. The release is violent.
support car by frame so wheels hang down and load is off any joint.
do not support by any part attached to tire that would compress suspension when lowered onto jack stands.
And they make many sizes of BFH -
HArbor freight is your friend here: 2-4lbs hammers - They call em Engineer or drilling hammers for some reason.
Lowes Depot has em too.
Hi ygmn, can you please share additional details on how not to compress suspension. Right now I have a front end lifted using jacks on each side. I feel like suspension is still under some sort of pressure. Hitting with a 2.5 sledge hammer still didn't do it/
Hi Baltistyle, correct front two wheels are off the ground. wheels gangle and not touching the grounf.
Q: do i need the back wheels off the ground as well?
Hi R3504Matic, thank you for sharing the video. this is the video that inspired me to take on this project. I purchased the Arnott replacement airmatic strut as well.
As stated in my first post, all was going well until I hit 3:12 in the video. This guy break loose the taper in 2-sec. I am going for some type of record. almost 4 days into this and still not able to get pass this step. I am sure by now I have done more harm to the ball joint than good.
where are your jack stands touching the car? body/frame or under lower a-arm?
support with jack stands under body/frame - that is how you unload suspension - wheels dangling.
if you want you could put jack under a-arm and jack it up to compress suspension on that side but car still sitting on jack stands.
Maybe find a neighbor who is good with cars and buy good beer - invite him over for advice on how to remove and my guess after you hand him beer he will ask for BFH and help you out.
Have you tried striking the taper laterally? Put one BFH on one side of the tapered joint to act as a stop and use a second BFH to strike the opposite side. Sometimes this can flex the joint to break the bond between the tapered bolt and through hole.
Finally Done. I appreciate everyone who gave their advice. At the end "Ball Joint Separator Tool" and BFH did the trick. Tool + WD-40 + BFH. Also forum member advice: unload suspension, use of BFH, using two BFH, Align the tool properly. all made a big difference.
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