Help! Plastic cap from tensioner dropped
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Help! Plastic cap from tensioner dropped
Hello, I was in process of replacing bank 2 camshaft adjuster and while removing tensioner, i dropped its green plastic cap inside the timing area. I tried to get it out and end up dropping it further where I can't even see where it went.
How risky is it? What should I do?
Also, i purchased this kit
But it won't fit and seems like I'll need to rotate crankshaft to get more precise angle, can I rotate crank bolt without tensioner? Or I have to install everything back in, rotate, and then remove tensioner again?
How risky is it? What should I do?
Also, i purchased this kit
But it won't fit and seems like I'll need to rotate crankshaft to get more precise angle, can I rotate crank bolt without tensioner? Or I have to install everything back in, rotate, and then remove tensioner again?
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So I was able to install that attachment and moved crankshaft tiny bit counterclockwise and it worked. The main issue I am having now is the tension in the chain is so high that chain is not moving at all. What can I do to loosen the tension and why is it so high?
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W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
Keep Exactly TIMED !!
I am not sure why you are surprised by chain tension...
Chain rotates two camshafts with 12x valves springs.
Hopefully engine is still timed properly and you do not have valves kissing pistons.
Do not rotate crank on fixed camshafts.
FYI : Rotation is clockwise direction.
>> The very last step may be to MANUALLY rotate crank pulley Three Full Turns to 100% guarantee valves and pistons are timed properly.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jun 8, 2026 at 05:50 PM.
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Thanks, I am just surprised how tight the tension is that its very tough to remove adjuster and tensioner. I'll do my best but already regret starting the project lol there is no turning back
I guess I'll keep on wiggling the adjuster and try to remove it
I guess I'll keep on wiggling the adjuster and try to remove it
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W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
read printed instructions
VVT Phaser service kit
Did you follow the printed instructions steps?
The initial steps are to set engine on timing marks, install tool before removing chain tensioner.
You need to be clear about steps you must follow to prevent any engine damage. Don't rush forward.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jun 8, 2026 at 06:40 PM.
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Yes, I timed everything right, installed the kit, but after removing adjuster bolt, I still was not able to get the adjuster to move, eventually i got it to move a little, but still unable to remove.
I then removed the holder kit and tried again removing adjuster. It moved a little, but still unable to fully remove it because chain keeps it there very tight.
Videos I've seen online, the chain seem to be more loose than what I have. It looks like I'll have to remove the top and crank cover. Really sucks.
I then removed the holder kit and tried again removing adjuster. It moved a little, but still unable to fully remove it because chain keeps it there very tight.
Videos I've seen online, the chain seem to be more loose than what I have. It looks like I'll have to remove the top and crank cover. Really sucks.
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W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
follow kit instructions
Yes, I timed everything right, installed the kit, but after removing adjuster bolt, I still was not able to get the adjuster to move, eventually i got it to move a little, but still unable to remove.
I then removed the holder kit and tried again removing adjuster. It moved a little, but still unable to fully remove it because chain keeps it there very tight.
Videos I've seen online, the chain seem to be more loose than what I have. It looks like I'll have to remove the top and crank cover. Really sucks.
I then removed the holder kit and tried again removing adjuster. It moved a little, but still unable to fully remove it because chain keeps it there very tight.
Videos I've seen online, the chain seem to be more loose than what I have. It looks like I'll have to remove the top and crank cover. Really sucks.
As soon as you get hold of the gear, the camshaft will rotate itself forward out of time... do not move the crank!
Grab the rear end of the camshaft, rotate back into time then slap new gear on using all chain slack.
Before you decide to rotate engine manually triple check your marks are correctly aligned. Means engine is timed properly.
It's not entirely simple... take your time to do this right. The next head bank will go faster...
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jun 8, 2026 at 06:54 PM.
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Thanks. I am still confused why its so tight. I'll probably do that, with top cover off, it will be easier.
Just to make sure I got TDC right. Bank 2, TDC 4/0, the camshaft adjusters on bank 2 will have marks - intake around 4 o'clock and exhaust one around 8 o'clock? Or i should have done it where the marks are out of view from time cover?
Just to make sure I got TDC right. Bank 2, TDC 4/0, the camshaft adjusters on bank 2 will have marks - intake around 4 o'clock and exhaust one around 8 o'clock? Or i should have done it where the marks are out of view from time cover?
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W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
Thanks. I am still confused why its so tight. I'll probably do that, with top cover off, it will be easier.
Just to make sure I got TDC right:
Bank 2, TDC+40°, the camshaft adjusters on bank 2 will have marks - intake around 4 o'clock and exhaust one around 8 o'clock?
Or i should have done it where the marks are out of view from time cover?
Just to make sure I got TDC right:
Bank 2, TDC+40°, the camshaft adjusters on bank 2 will have marks - intake around 4 o'clock and exhaust one around 8 o'clock?
Or i should have done it where the marks are out of view from time cover?
Yes, phaser gear marks pointing towards the tensioner.
These marks can be confusing, there is a "plan B"...
Do yourself a favor... reference your chain to gears:
-- Add your own (paint) marks on chain
-- Add your own marks on both phaser intake + exhaust
This will boost your confidence of being safely timed correctly.
Double check all marks and references to your satisfaction.
✌️
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jun 8, 2026 at 07:33 PM.
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Thanks for your help! I did mark in a couple places, but still main thing I am stuck on is how tight the chain is to the intake adjuster. On the right under exhaust adjuster, the chain seem kind of loose, but all around intake side is super tight. I am tempted to try to put it all back, check timing and just let it go.
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W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
Thanks for your help! I did mark in a couple places, but still main thing I am stuck on is how tight the chain is to the intake adjuster. On the right under exhaust adjuster, the chain seem kind of loose, but all around intake side is super tight. I am tempted to try to put it all back, check timing and just let it go.
You're the boss!
Both gears are jammed tight by lock-down tool holding camshaft that's under tension to rotate from valve springs.
There is a little bit of chain slack, normally on intake side - Chain should not be under any cam tension with lock-down tool installed.
Rotate crank CW couple degrees to send chain slack to the intake side where needed.
FYI obviously... :
- 1- you can not rotate crank much while chain is normaly installed + gear tie-down tool installed.
- 2 - you should not rotate crank at all while chain is loose with any phaser removed (bent valves!).
I think the key in all that is getting hold of intake camshaft rear end to control its timely position.
As soon as you get your intake phaser gear out , then cam is going to rotate loose.
Then you will need to set camshaft back on time.
🤞
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jun 8, 2026 at 08:14 PM.
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With mine, the chain was so tight that when I removed the held down kit and moved adjuster side to side a little, the adjuster moved down a little and its definitely being held by chain. So for whatever reason, I had no slack at all with chain.
I moved manually just 2 degrees with one adjuster out, hopefully that will not damage anything. But now I think timing is messed up, or at least it is really tough to adjust anything with chain being so tight on adjuster. I really think my only way now is remove valve cover and crank cover. So one day of work will turn into weeks. Hopefully only issue I have is timing.
I moved manually just 2 degrees with one adjuster out, hopefully that will not damage anything. But now I think timing is messed up, or at least it is really tough to adjust anything with chain being so tight on adjuster. I really think my only way now is remove valve cover and crank cover. So one day of work will turn into weeks. Hopefully only issue I have is timing.
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With mine, the chain was so tight that when I removed the held down kit and moved adjuster side to side a little, the adjuster moved down a little and its definitely being held by chain. So for whatever reason, I had no slack at all with chain.
I moved manually just 2 degrees with one adjuster out, hopefully that will not damage anything.
But now I think timing is messed up, or at least it is really tough to adjust anything with chain being so tight on adjuster.
I really think my only way now is remove valve cover and crank cover.
So one day of work will turn into weeks. Hopefully only issue I have is timing.
I moved manually just 2 degrees with one adjuster out, hopefully that will not damage anything.
But now I think timing is messed up, or at least it is really tough to adjust anything with chain being so tight on adjuster.
I really think my only way now is remove valve cover and crank cover.
So one day of work will turn into weeks. Hopefully only issue I have is timing.
A new tensioner should be installed. Old unit is short lived to become loose.
There isn't any adjustment:
Gears must be inserted on-time exactly.
It seems you have replaced the new gear already. Now double-check your timing marks.
-- If appropriate: check your timing marks alignment to confirm timing is perfect.
-- If timing is bad do not rotate anything. Reset it.
Complete the timing job.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jun 8, 2026 at 08:30 PM.
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No, when I removed tensioner, first of all, it was under a lot of tension and got stuck before chain was still under tension. I was eventually able to remove the tensioner, but still, no slack at all. That's the main issue I am having.
Maybe someone before me was there and did something, but I still don't get it how tension can be so tough.
Like
, they just simply push on metal bracket with one finger and that piece easily slides down and they just put tensioner and tighten it.
On mine, when I was reinstalling tensioner last time, I literary had to hold that metal piece with screwdriver or pry bar for me slide tensioner in and then I had to hold tensioner tightly while securing it because it kept going up and hitting intake adjuster.
Maybe someone before me was there and did something, but I still don't get it how tension can be so tough.
Like
On mine, when I was reinstalling tensioner last time, I literary had to hold that metal piece with screwdriver or pry bar for me slide tensioner in and then I had to hold tensioner tightly while securing it because it kept going up and hitting intake adjuster.
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No, when I removed tensioner, first of all, it was under a lot of tension and got stuck before chain was still under tension. I was eventually able to remove the tensioner, but still, no slack at all. That's the main issue I am having.
Maybe someone before me was there and did something, but I still don't get it how tension can be so tough.
Like https://www.youtube.com/shorts/UkrrpxzvJ14 , they just simply push on metal bracket with one finger and that piece easily slides down and they just put tensioner and tighten it.
On mine, when I was reinstalling tensioner last time, I literary had to hold that metal piece with screwdriver or pry bar for me slide tensioner in and then I had to hold tensioner tightly while securing it because it kept going up and hitting intake adjuster.
Maybe someone before me was there and did something, but I still don't get it how tension can be so tough.
Like https://www.youtube.com/shorts/UkrrpxzvJ14 , they just simply push on metal bracket with one finger and that piece easily slides down and they just put tensioner and tighten it.
On mine, when I was reinstalling tensioner last time, I literary had to hold that metal piece with screwdriver or pry bar for me slide tensioner in and then I had to hold tensioner tightly while securing it because it kept going up and hitting intake adjuster.
The chain slack is what tensioner is here to control.
There is a growing amount of chain slack, not diminishing. As the chain wears out it stretches longer.
While working on this... slack is either present on left or right side of crank but it is there, right?
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Not really, I saw some afterwards on the right side under exhaust adjuster, so that really does nothing for me as I still need to keep it at TDC
If only there was slack where it needed to be, I wouldn't have any of the issues i am having lol
If only there was slack where it needed to be, I wouldn't have any of the issues i am having lol
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This is likely because your camshaft has rotated and is jamming your pistons - Crank won't move (should not be moved).
move camshaft back to its in time position - This will free intake valves away from your pistons - Is it still not really as you want ??
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jun 9, 2026 at 04:51 AM.
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How would i move chain slack back to intake without moving crank?
I will remove crank cover later this week, I think I don't need to remove upper oiil pan for it, but will just have to remove two bolts on that side. Hopefully I won't need to remove the valve cover. I did notice I damaged top guide, its very small. I ordered replacement, but not sure yet how to remove old one and install new one. The distance there (between adjusters) is so small that I don't even know if it really needs guide there.
I will remove crank cover later this week, I think I don't need to remove upper oiil pan for it, but will just have to remove two bolts on that side. Hopefully I won't need to remove the valve cover. I did notice I damaged top guide, its very small. I ordered replacement, but not sure yet how to remove old one and install new one. The distance there (between adjusters) is so small that I don't even know if it really needs guide there.
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W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
valves jamming pistons
How would i move chain slack back to intake without moving crank?
I will remove crank cover later this week, I think I don't need to remove upper oiil pan for it, but will just have to remove two bolts on that side. Hopefully I won't need to remove the valve cover. I did notice I damaged top guide, its very small. I ordered replacement, but not sure yet how to remove old one and install new one. The distance there (between adjusters) is so small that I don't even know if it really needs guide there.
I will remove crank cover later this week, I think I don't need to remove upper oiil pan for it, but will just have to remove two bolts on that side. Hopefully I won't need to remove the valve cover. I did notice I damaged top guide, its very small. I ordered replacement, but not sure yet how to remove old one and install new one. The distance there (between adjusters) is so small that I don't even know if it really needs guide there.
As said eaier... camshaft rotated away when chain was removed - Always does.
You will need to rotate cam back in-time - you can't do it from the front, you do it from the back end.
Once your valves are away from pistons you can rotate CW to send slack to intake side.
Hopefully exhaust cam and crank stayed on-time regardless of loose chain while intake phaser has been out.
Don't bend your valves by force rotating crank if so valves won't seal compressions afterwards: misfires.
There is very little unknown about this job. Follow the existing procedure you prefer. No creative steps involved.
I'm not sure i understand how "removing the crank cover" will help ?
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jun 9, 2026 at 01:10 PM.
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It will help really for two reasons. First is I dropped the plastic cap from tensioner when I was removing it, it fell all the way down, so removing crank cover should help me find it.
Two, I already rotated crank without tensioner. I did it only for couple degrees, but there is risk that I already messed up my timing. I noticed that exhaust adjuster mark is couple teeth further than it was when I started when crank bolt stayed at 4/0. Intake adjuster is sort of wedged now. Obviously it is a lot of labor, but messing up with timing and damaging the engine is much worse.
Also, if I will replace the timing guide on top, I think I might need to remove exhaust camshaft as well, so more risks with timing. I think getting crank cover out will help me overall. Lots of work, but that should ensure I get timing on point.
Two, I already rotated crank without tensioner. I did it only for couple degrees, but there is risk that I already messed up my timing. I noticed that exhaust adjuster mark is couple teeth further than it was when I started when crank bolt stayed at 4/0. Intake adjuster is sort of wedged now. Obviously it is a lot of labor, but messing up with timing and damaging the engine is much worse.
Also, if I will replace the timing guide on top, I think I might need to remove exhaust camshaft as well, so more risks with timing. I think getting crank cover out will help me overall. Lots of work, but that should ensure I get timing on point.
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W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
phaser... main cover
It will help really for two reasons. First is I dropped the plastic cap from tensioner when I was removing it, it fell all the way down, so removing crank cover should help me find it.
Two, I already rotated crank without tensioner. I did it only for couple degrees, but there is risk that I already messed up my timing. I noticed that exhaust adjuster mark is couple teeth further than it was when I started when crank bolt stayed at 4/0. Intake adjuster is sort of wedged now. Obviously it is a lot of labor, but messing up with timing and damaging the engine is much worse.
Also, if I will replace the timing guide on top, I think I might need to remove exhaust camshaft as well, so more risks with timing. I think getting crank cover out will help me overall. Lots of work, but that should ensure I get timing on point.
Two, I already rotated crank without tensioner. I did it only for couple degrees, but there is risk that I already messed up my timing. I noticed that exhaust adjuster mark is couple teeth further than it was when I started when crank bolt stayed at 4/0. Intake adjuster is sort of wedged now. Obviously it is a lot of labor, but messing up with timing and damaging the engine is much worse.
Also, if I will replace the timing guide on top, I think I might need to remove exhaust camshaft as well, so more risks with timing. I think getting crank cover out will help me overall. Lots of work, but that should ensure I get timing on point.
The crank cover is usually referred to as "timing cover" and the phaser openings as the "upper timing covers". This is a really long way to replace VVT Phaser.
The M276/8 dual short chains guides are usually in great shape because tensioners use weak pressure to hold chain slack.
Unlike single long chain M272/3 use a single strong spring tensioner. More wear on guides.
Good luck on the road less traveled. You will meet with water pump, Tstat, oil filter seals.
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Not yet, I didn't get to timing cover yet. I'll work on it on Thursday and not sure how far I'll get.
I was wondering if I have tension on left side after removing tensioner maybe because whoever worked on the car before did not time it properly, but who knows. Just really weird. I hope the chain that is there is appropriate length lol although if right side feels kind of loose and left super tight, probably length is accurate. But still makes no sense. I hope my big impact wrench will fit between radiator and crank bolt. If not, I'll have to get creative. I really don't want to remove the radiator again.
I was wondering if I have tension on left side after removing tensioner maybe because whoever worked on the car before did not time it properly, but who knows. Just really weird. I hope the chain that is there is appropriate length lol although if right side feels kind of loose and left super tight, probably length is accurate. But still makes no sense. I hope my big impact wrench will fit between radiator and crank bolt. If not, I'll have to get creative. I really don't want to remove the radiator again.
